The Food Scene
A Brooklyn Tasting Menu with Manhattan Ambition
Clover Hill offers the kind of technique-oriented cooking that usually emerges from the city’s billionaire canteens—and prices to match.
By Helen Rosner
The Central Park Boathouse Is Back, and It’s Perfectly Fine
Recently reopened under new management, the pricey tourist-bait canteen is more satisfying than it has any right to be.
By Helen Rosner
One Weird Night at Frog Club
If a self-consciously clubby restaurant suddenly becomes easy to get into, what’s the point of going at all?
By Helen Rosner
A Pitch-Perfect Ode to Korean “Drivers’ Restaurants”
Kisa is a brand-new spot on the Lower East Side that does an astonishingly good job of seeming like it’s been there forever.
By Helen Rosner
Ambitious, Modern Lebanese Cooking at Sawa
A new restaurant in Park Slope offers Levantine dishes fit for a special occasion.
By Helen Rosner
The Casual Confidence of Lola’s
An alumna of Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group offers a Southern-inflected menu that subtly sings.
By Helen Rosner
The Glittering Pleasure of a Perfect Raw Bar
Penny, in the East Village, has a polished, understated swagger that somehow makes the oysters taste even better.
By Helen Rosner
Blanca Is Not for Beginners
At the reopened restaurant behind Roberta’s, the Chile-born chef Victoria Blamey offers flavors that are strong, unexpected, and occasionally disorienting.
By Helen Rosner
The Return, Again, of the Power Lunch
Four Twenty Five, a luxe new dining room from the mega-restaurateur Jean-Georges Vongerichten, takes square aim at the expense-account crowd.
By Helen Rosner
Mexican-ish Fine Dining, with Detours
Corima offers attention-grabbing tortillas, Japanese flourishes, and an ambitious tasting menu that hasn’t quite found its stride.
By Helen Rosner