A practical guide to exploring Peru

Peru is one of South America’s most popular countries for foreign visitors, but planning a trip here remains hardly intuitive. This is a destination with landscapes ranging from a drenching rainforest to high-altitude peaks and desert coastal plains. Some of its attractions are blockbusters, making early booking essential — and the choice of tickets on offer can be confusing. While the tourist infrastructure is generally well developed, rural areas remain wonderfully traditional, meaning English isn’t always understood and cash still reigns. From when to book to what to pack, this quick guide will help you sort through the logistics.

Should I visit using a tour operator or independently?

Booking with a tour operator means you won’t have to worry about logistics, which can, at times, be complicated. If you’re travelling to Machu Picchu from Cusco, for example, a tour operator will take care of all legs of the journey, which includes a bus, rail and minibus ride. As larger suitcases aren’t allowed on the train, your operator will also look after your luggage should you want to overnight in the gateway town of Aguas Calientes before or after visiting the citadel. What’s more, it means you’ll have a guide with you at most times, which can really bring this storied country to life. That said, Peru — especially the south — is easy enough to visit independently, with a well-developed tourist infrastructure. Bus companies such as Peru Hop, whose services include hotel pick up and English-speaking guides, can make the logistics easier.

If I plan the trip myself, should I book every leg of the itinerary before I leave?

Cornerstone experiences such as Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail require advance booking, particularly during high season (June to the end of August). Reserve six weeks in advance for the former and at least six months ahead for the latter. Flights and accommodation should also be booked at least three months in advance during this period. Overland bus travel can generally be secured a day or two before departure, particularly in the north of Peru, where there are fewer tourists.

Which Machu Picchu circuit should I book?

In 2021, the Peruvian Ministry of Culture implemented one-way visitor circuits at Machu Picchu to disperse traffic and, while pandemic-era restrictions are no longer in place, the system remains to help better distribute footfall and protect constructions. The circuits got updated on 1 June 2024, with 10 ticket types now on offer (some of which are only available in high season), combining different sections of the citadel with the mountains and sites around it. Circuit 1 is the only that gives access to the House of the Guardian, which offers the iconic pulled-back view of the site, while Circuit 2 is the most comprehensive — it takes in both the ‘lower’ and ‘upper’ areas. Circuit 3 only has access to the ‘lower’ structures but offers a more thorough visit of this area compared to Circuit 2. For more information on what each circuit includes, visit Ticket Machu Picchu.

What do I need to know about the Inca Trail?

There ‘classic’ route takes four days, starting at a trailhead near Cusco and ending at Machu Picchu, with entrance to the site though the ancient Sun Gate. Visitors must book a slot and hiking permit via a licensed operator, putting down a non-refundable deposit. These tour companies provide guides — it’s obligatory to have one — and porters to transport luggage and necessities along the way, as well as meals, energy snacks and technical equipment. Nights are spent at established campsites complete with rustic toilet facilities.

As the trail is exceedingly popular, the number of people allowed on the path has been capped to 500 per day, including guides, porters and other staff. Still, solitude can be elusive, so do expect to come across other groups on the way.The trail covers 26 miles in four days, and much of it is high-altitude trekking, crossing mountain passes that reach elevations of almost 14,000ft. Be sure to prepare and acclimatise sensibly. Shorter one- or two-day options are also available, as well as longer ones that pair the Inca Trail with other ancient paths.

How should I manage my money when travelling here?

In places such as Cusco and Lima, credit cards are increasingly accepted, but in rural areas and small restaurants, shops and B&Bs, cash is king. ATMs will generally charge a fee of between £5 and £10 for withdrawals, so it can make sense to take cash out in larger amounts. Use ATMs attached to banks, during daylight hours and with other people around.

Do I need to speak Spanish?

Few Peruvians outside of tourist hubs speak much English. Aside from helping you board the correct bus, knowing some basic Spanish can assist when it comes to haggling for a taxi or at the local market, where it’s common to try to knock a bit of money off prices. 

What do I need to take with me?

Spanning everything from bone-dry desert to the cool, rainy climate of the highlands and the humidity of the Amazon jungle, Peru’s terrain presents a unique challenge to visitors when it comes to organising your luggage. That said, basic packing principles apply: a lightweight rain jacket is essential for downpours in the Andes and the Amazon, while layers can help navigate both hot and cold climes. Hiking shoes are needed for treks, but if you’re heading into the Amazon, lodges should provide wellies for muddy jungle trails. Bring earplugs, an eye mask and warm clothing for bus rides; temperatures can either be glacial or sweltering.

Is the water in Peru potable?

No, as cases of giardiasis, caused by the giardia parasite, which lives in the water, have been reported. A water filter such as the Grayl Geopress will make tap water safe to drink by removing viruses and bacteria — and stop you from polluting and spending a small fortune on single-use plastic bottles.