Thai and Japanese Classics Meet Refined Seafood at A-Roi

For husband-and-wife owners Amy Yimnoi and Big-O, A-Roi feels like a natural progression. They’re no strangers to the local Thai scene, having run Mt. Juliet’s Smiley Thai and Goodlettsville’s Poy Thai for a few years now. But A-Roi, their first foray within Nashville proper, is noticeably different.

What hasn’t changed is the duo’s culinary ethos: Thai and Japanese fare are still on the menu along with drinks, shareables and a sizable list of sushi and sashimi. They also remain focused on consistent service and reasonable if not necessarily dirt-cheap prices. The real difference lies in the tastefully elevated experience and execution, which makes A-Roi a welcome addition to Nashville’s roster of trendy Thai spots.

For one, A-Roi is refreshingly modern. Nestled on a shady corner in McKissack Park a few blocks north of Charlotte Avenue, A-Roi is sleek and elegant but nevertheless down to earth. Huge windows bring natural light into the dining room, while shady earth tones and intimate tables give a comfortable vibe for the dinner crowd. The bar, immaculate and eye-catching, sends out beer, wine and soju alongside specialty cocktails like the refreshing baijiu-centered Tiki Tiki or the Golden Dream, which features notes of yuzu. Those who want a view into the kitchen as the woks fire up can sit at the sushi station. Here you’re likely to find executive chef and sushi expert Koji hard at work, slicing sashimi and glancing up occasionally like a salmon-obsessed Captain Ahab surveying his crew. Pair this ambience with a delicious, high(ish)-concept menu and you get a seriously enjoyable experience, perfect for business dinners, date nights and casual get-togethers alike.

Amy and Big-O had this exact experience in mind when they set out to open. “We’re passionate about making delicious Thai and sushi accessible to everyone,” they tell the Scene as a team, noting that A-Roi focuses not just on the food, but on also creating a “welcoming space, where neighbors can gather, connect and enjoy memorable dining experiences together.” A-Roi, fortunately for Nashville, is doing a good job of that already.

But enough with the high-falutin’ talk about experience and decor. How’s the food?

Well, there’s plenty to go around. A-Roi’s menu is wide-ranging to say the least, but it’s imperative for first-timers and return customers alike to check out A-Roi’s starters. On first glance, you’ll be drawn to the standard choices: edamame (salt and garlic options), spring rolls, crab Rangoon and the like. While these are all perfectly fine if unadventurous choices, I’d be remiss to skip a mention of the fried dumplings. Filled with chicken and shrimp, they’re lightly fried and served with a surprisingly delicate soy sauce. The dumplings, along with the gyoza and tasty shrimp shumai, make A-Roi a prime destination within a Nashville dumpling tour. And it doesn’t stop there. Unpretentious izakaya mainstays like yakitori and ika maruyaki (grilled squid topped with teriyaki sauce) rub shoulders with bowls of tom kha and tom yum, while the hamachi carpaccio (yellowtail sashimi with yuzu miso and jalapeño) provides a tasty element of Japanese haute cuisine.

While A-Roi is a great option for an afternoon spent knocking back appetizers and drinks, we didn’t come for starters alone. Outside of starters and a few rice bowl options, diners have two main avenues to travel down at A-Roi: A-Roi ‘Special Dishes’ (Thai and Japanese-style entrees) or a broad range of fresh seafood options. On the seafood front, sushi and sashimi are the safest bet, whether the mood demands deep-fried sushi, tuna poke or fatty-tuna sashimi. Omakase and seafood towers are available as well, though be sure to check their availability. The kitchen works with a “reliable” distributor in Atlanta to guarantee a fresh supply of fish weekly. 

As for conventional Thai and Japanese entrees, A-Roi covers the basics and more. Find tonkotsu and miso ramen alongside chicken yakisoba, panang duck, pad see ew and the multicolored array of curries characteristic of Thai places around town. Where A-Roi truly succeeds, though, is in doing the classics well without abandoning their authenticity. Case in point: the katsu curry. A lean cut of pork is fried golden-brown, then served in a bath of Japanese curry. Sounds easy enough, but plenty of times at other establishments I have opted for one and walked away disappointed — or worse, horrified. A-Roi dishes out both a juicy pork cutlet that maintains its crunch and a surprisingly complex sauce with warming spice and an apple-like sweetness.

I’ll also mention the khao soi gai. Until A-Roi, I was convinced that I would never find a bowl of Thai noodles in Nashville that can truly compete with Degthai’s tiew gang or tom yum goong. But A-Roi’s khao soi gai is a whirlwind romance. I’m not quite ready to commit and say I prefer the khao soi gai over Degthai’s options, but it’s a very close race. One spoonful takes you to a special place, where deep flavors of coconut milk, curry and fresh herbs mingle with al dente noodles and a crunchy fried noodle garnish.

For me, it’s fantastic. A new restaurant has me questioning everything I thought I knew about Thai noodle soup in Nashville. It’s worth your time and money.