Despite the bustle of tourists outside, Fonda 12 South offers a comforting atmosphere inside. The outer wall benches are especially relaxing, and it feels like dining at home.
Once my husband and I were seated in our corner booth on a recent night, I sank into the pillows more than I’d like to admit after having a paloma. It was a perfect spot for a midweek date, even without much spare time. We made it a point to get there early enough to start with a drink at the bar. He ordered a Dos Equis Ambar on draft and discovered the beauty of a beer glass with Tajín along the rim. I was shocked he’d never had this combo, considering the seasoning is in our kitchen cabinet. While I’m a fan myself, I opted for sugar on the rim of my paloma, since its sweetness balances the bitterness of the grapefruit.
The friendly staff at the bar also recommended the frozen pomegranate margarita and the classic margarita, which is more akin to a “skinny” margarita elsewhere. There were a few intriguing mocktail options on the menu, like the hibiscus spritz and strawberry colada.
We wanted to try a couple menu items from chef Roberto Santibañez and opted for the platos pequeños portion of the menu. Santibañez, also a cookbook author and teacher, is known for his food’s connection to his hometown of Mexico City. (The small plates and taco boards are good options for groups or budget-conscious diners.)
It was my husband’s choice to start off with the crab empanadas (empanadas de jaiba), which ended up a favorite. There were two on the plate alongside a mango habanero salsa. The crab-and-crema mixture inside the crispy shell was great, but the mango dipping sauce became the star of the show. The spice-to-sweet ratio was perfect, giving the kind of burn that was flavorful rather than giving heat for no reason.
Unintentionally, I stuck with seafood, choosing the fish tacos (tacos de pescado). This fish was clearly freshly battered and fried, given how flaky and crispy it was. The warm fish was topped with a chipotle mayo and slaw. And yes, we saved the mango habanero salsa and added a little to the tacos.
We both wanted to give one more item a try, and I would have opted for burrata con friojole negros, described as warm burrata with black bean sauce and toasted sesame seeds. But my husband saw an opportunity for seared tongue, which he insisted we get, having previously had the dish while visiting his family in Uruguay. Our kind waiter brought us chips with pasilla de oaxaca and salsa verde while we waited. I enjoyed the citrus flavor in the verde while my husband preferred the smoked chile flavor of the more traditional red.
When the lengua a la veracruzana arrived at the table, I was pleased to see it looked like strips of beef topped with tomato. My husband dove right in and praised the dish. My first thought was how tender the meat was. My second thought was how much depth of flavor the capers and olives added to the crushed tomatoes on top.
I was so glad we ordered something special rather than chicken or steak tacos — although I’ll be back to give those a try too.
Fonda 12 South is at 2316 12th Ave. S. and is open Wednesday through Thursday 4 to 10 p.m. On Saturday, the restaurant serves brunch from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and is open for dinner until 11 p.m. Sunday offers the brunch hours as well, but the restaurant closes at 9 p.m.
