A first look at London’s newest opening

Destinations
By Issy von Simson
June 20, 2024

The hotly anticipated arrival of Mandarin Oriental Mayfair, London has seen the hotel quick-fast become the most dynamic and exciting place to stay in W1.

A dining room at the iconic London restaurant, Sketch

Show-stopping entrance

They’re the stairs that everyone is talking about. The huge spiral staircase, a floating helix of Ming green marble from China, sweeps down into the lower floors. This, as with many other design details, shows the serious statement of intent here. Mandarin Oriental Mayfair, London is the first new-build hotel in this part of the city for a decade and it was definitely worth waiting for. The outside is restrained and non-shouty, slotting in elegantly with its neighbours, but inside is a surprise, an iceberg that sinks deep below Hanover Square’s pavements and, thanks to the architectural wizardry, remains flooded with light. The space – so much space – is modern, crisp, forward-looking, with a buzzy energy about it. This ambitious little sister to Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London is already creating a new hub for locals, a meeting spot for morning coffees and late night cocktails, for bento box breakfasts, sushi lunches, fusion feasting dinners and, later in the year, rooftop sundowners.
Inside the V&A museum’s gift shop in London

Feast for the eyes

At the bottom of the stairs is chef Akira Back’s eponymous restaurant. Under triple-height ceilings, with daylight streaming in through the glass roof and a small forest of potted trees punctuating the room, the outside feels as if it’s been brought in. The artwork, curated by Tokyo studio Curiosity, is distractingly good, from the bentwood sculptural wall by British artist Charlie Whinney, depicting a vortex of wind above the tables to the reproduction of a painting by Back’s mother on a vast mirror behind the bar. There is something to look at everywhere, not least on the plates themselves, where a modern Japanese mash-up with some of the best British ingredients sees baked Portland crab handrolls, Cornish seaweed salads and Highland Wagyu beef alongside some of Back’s classics, including his famed AB tuna pizza. Tucked behind a closed door is the 14-seat counter-style chef’s table, Dosa, for those in the know. It’s a metallic spaceship of a room, all silver leaf walls and industrial reflections, with a Korean menu concept that won a Michelin star in Seoul.

A visitor walking down a spiral staircase at Tate Modern in London

After dark

When the sun goes down, the atmosphere shifts into a kind of cool, clubby vibe. In ABar Lounge, the mixologists wear amazing varsity jacket-style shirts with embroidered dragon-wing sleeves and they busy away in front of a gallery display of Japanese whisky bottles. A DJ plays on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights into the small hours. With the jewel tones of the velvety sofas and the dimly set art installation ceiling lights, the whole thing feels like a secret speakeasy hangout. For all the bustling, thriving energy downstairs, all is pin-drop quiet in the bedrooms. With only 50 rooms and suites, you really have the run of the place. The serene spaces have floor-to-ceiling windows, so again feel thrillingly light, and they have been designed like the most ultra-luxurious super yachts with more endless marble, sliding doors and a delicious sense of solidity about them. Bespoke hand-painted de Gournay wallpaper features everywhere, the magnolias referencing the spring blossoms in the garden square outside.

A colourful installation at the Design Centre in Chelsea Harbour

Below deck

The spa, as everyone expects, is at the top of its game, with a proper 25m pool for swimming lengths - the largest in Mayfair, a BodySpace gym with personal trainers and physios on standby, and two treatment rooms – one double, one single – where some of the best therapies in London can be played out. New to Mandarin Oriental is the partnership with Seed to Skin Tuscany, 100 per cent natural skincare from Tuscany for rejuvenating, restorative facials, offered alongside results-driven Swiss Perfection. There’s a Dream Sleep CBD Massage using oils from the brand OTO to knock jet-lag on its head. And, of course, excellent Asian-leaning holistic massages are a staple. This is the first Mandarin Oriental property where the Residences are so intertwined with the hotel, creating a mini-community space, especially in the gym and spa as residents come for their daily workout.

Insider MO tip

Anyone who has exercised hard in the morning can then refuel with Akira Back’s wildly good kimchi pastries for breakfast. It’s almost impossible to only have one.


More news

Also just opened this month, Mandarin Oriental, Muscat, in the heart of Shatti Al-Qurum. See our First Look review in the next newsletter.

Issy von Simson
About the Author
Issy von Simson
Formerly the Editor-in-Chief of Loupe and Editor of Condé Nast Traveller, Issy writes for T+L, The Times, The Telegraph, BOAT and ES magazine and is the author of Secret Stays, published by Assouline.