Back in April Kingpins Quarterly interviewed the legendary Jerome Dohan. It brought back memories of when the denim industry had a mission to create, remember Heather Jerrehian ? Anyway, I was interested in a part of the interview where Andrew asks the following: JD: Women’s is worse than men’s because men’s didn’t enter the market like women’s did over the past 20 years. Men's were the first guys to make jeans and then women’s became popular. And after being popular, there were brands left and right that opened up, and jeans didn’t mean really anything anymore. It was about price point, and it was about picking a basic, and I didn’t even understand the market after. AO: Do you understand it right now? Because I don’t. JD: I don’t. I understand that people are not creative and because the people are not creative, they work with price points. AO: When you started your brands there were all these stores in Los Angeles like Kitson and Fred Segal. They’re all gone. Why do you think they’re gone, and what’s going to happen after that? JD: Stores like Kitson wanted to make more money [on] the product. And when you think about that…, you don’t think of a product anymore, and a lot of brands that were sold in those stores didn’t give the image of the store anymore. And business became tough, very tough, especially for department stores. Look at Barneys. Barneys was the first department store to close, and [I knew] this was going to be a big deal… Barneys was a store that was a landmark. People used to come to LA and where did they go? They’d go to these kinds of stores. The day it closed, I knew the market was going to change. Florian Schneider what are your thoughts on how the stores are looking in today's environment?
Richard Atkins’ Post
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The quality that changed my life and made me obsessed with denim started in a small showroom office in NYC called Olah Inc. At the time, Andrew Olah showcased Kurabo denim from Japan. I was keen to see this "Indigo gold" for myself and had a chance to visit him and his showroom. It wasn't until a few years later, when I worked for AllSaints, that I could order and buy this unique quality. The quality was so beautiful to work with that the code is still embedded in my memories - KDX2004... A 14oz, 28" width, selvedge quality elevated the collection and perfectly matched the image of the brand and the heritage of denim. Niklas Vila Karpe Mark Westmoreland remember? I visited the mill then and learnt about the history and techniques that Kurabo applied to their beautiful fabrics. Satoshi Toyama KDX2004 denim quality outlined everything I look for in weave, colour and finishing of denim quality. #denim #Kurabo #jeans #indigo #japanesedenim #blueblood
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Introduced in 1925, this first Lee denim jacket called the 91J, was especially loved by early Railroad workers, affectionately becoming known as Lee’s “Loco” jacket. I bought this one from the US at the "Rose Bowl Flea Market", 20 years ago. The Rose Bowl Flea Market features over 2,500 vendors hawking an eclectic variety of goods and wares on the second Sunday of each month at the iconic Rose Bowl, Pasadena. #denim #blueblood #vintagedenim #indigo #Lee
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Tokushima is the mythical Japan Blue's birthplace of Japanese indigo. Indigo has a very narrow absorption spectrum, with a peak around 375–475 nm. This means that indigo strongly absorbs light in the red and green portions of the visible spectrum while reflecting light in the blue range. This selective absorption and reflection of light is what gives indigo its characteristic blue color. #denim #blueblood #indigo-oxidation #masterdye
Oxidation is the key for even denim dyeing. #denim #indigo #hankdyeing #sabf
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All 501 models are fascinating with codes stamped in various places. Typically they have a three-digit stamp on the waist button, indicating what factory made them. E.g. “555” indicates the famed Valencia Street facility. #denim #blueblood #buylesswearquality #LEvi's #BigE #denimtreasure
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What is the most interesting thing under your desk right now that helps you do your job? Florian Schneider Niklas Vila Karpe #denim #denimhead #blueblood #creativity #Fashion #Jeans
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CEO | Investor | AI + Tech Innovator | Board Director | Serial Entrepreneur
2moRichard Atkins, yes! I have amazing memories of the denim industry when we were creating The Proportion of Blu. . .the market was full of many creative brands that inspired us. . .and we prided ourselves on being an "intelligent" brand using the golden ratio and having an amazing aesthetic where we poured over every detail from Japanese and Italian denim to the custom shaped rivets with the golden curve design (remember the platinum plated rivets we did for the Barneys catalog?!?) to our signature pocket embroidery. . .and working with Adriano Goldschmied in his Laundry Atelier to create the perfect pressed resin finish and other unique washes. It was a completely different time. . .when it was an honor to be in stores like Barneys, United Arrows, Joyce, etc. The world of retail and fashion are completely different today. . .I'm grateful for the memories!