BILLIONAIRE PINAULTS FIGHT TO PULL GUCCI OFF THE DISCOUNT RACK
Bloomberg by Angelina Rascouët and Tara Patel: Some investors and analysts are questioning whether CEO François-Henri Pinault is the right man to overhaul Gucci’s parent Kering at this critical juncture.
On a recent Friday afternoon, shoppers at a Gucci boutique waded through heaps of heavily discounted, past-season merchandise: Yellow pumps, furry slippers, flamboyant jackets and bright green clutches. A sale of that sort at an outlet in a nondescript suburb of Paris, near Disneyland, would be unthinkable for rival purveyors of luxury like Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Hermès.
But for Gucci, it’s the result of a muddled vision of its place in high fashion and a dysfunctional management strategy that have left its parent Kering SA struggling to stem a sharp decline in revenue while other groups in the €362 billion ($385 billion) global personal luxury goods industry remain more resilient as the sector cools down.
The more than doubling of shares at competitors LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE and Hermès International SCA since March 2020 has made the former’s founder, Bernard Arnault, the world’s richest person and the family behind the latter into Europe’s wealthiest. In contrast, Kering, which gets more than two-thirds of its profit from Gucci, has lost about a third of its value, leaving the group facing one of its biggest challenges since its own controlling billionaire family — the Pinaults — got into luxury at the turn of the century.As Kering dives into a critical attempt to turn things around, about 10 long-term investors, former insiders and industry observers say the group needs a far more drastic overhaul than it has planned. Some who asked not to be named discussing private views even question if chief executive officer François-Henri Pinault, the 61-year-old son of the founder widely known as FHP, is the right man for the job after nearly two decades at the helm. It may be time for him to hand over the reins to someone like co-deputy CEO Francesca Bellettini to reinvigorate the group, they say.
“Gucci is a story of turnarounds and re-branding, but the one it’s in the midst of now could be one of its toughest because they have to fix the corporate side as well as the brand,” says Stefania Saviolo, a lecturer in fashion and luxury management at Bocconi University.
Representatives for FHP and Kering declined to comment.
The wild swings in Gucci’s — and hence Kering’s — fortunes over the years can be traced to its effort to find a sweet spot straddling fashion and luxury, two segments with business models that can be at odds with each other.
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General Manager | Simon Property Group
3moSo excited for your team. What a statement this Gucci boutique will make at Dadeland 😍