How to wear... the square neck

The ultra-high neck blouses, jumpers and dresses of winter are giving way to something considerably lower, without revealing too much.

The square neck emerged as the It girl's go-to last summer, thanks to the success of cult brands such as Rixo and Reformation, and high-profile fans including Meghan Markle, Kendall Jenner, Kaia Gerber and Emma Roberts. Roberts dressed her floral blouse down with jeans and flats, while Gerber made a square-neck dress wedding-appropriate by styling with strappy-heeled sandals, delicate jewellery and a chic mini-bag.

The neckline brings a gentle romance to even the most simple black tops, and in the spring 2020 collections, designers extrapolated on the square neck with intriguing results.

Bottega Veneta has enjoyed viral success with its square-toed sandals and pumps, and this season creative director Daniel Lee presented a number of ribbed-knit dresses, clingy on the body and twisted into uneven squares around the neck. The clean-cut lines and minimalist shapes are a far cry from the extravagant frills and lace seen on the dresses worn by Marie Antoinette, who famously favoured the square neckline.

Brock Collection nodded to those exaggerated silhouettes (or perhaps Sofia Coppola's costume drama from 2006) with a sweeping jacquard, puffed-sleeve gown, along with some lighter propositions created with repurposed vintage florals.

Self-Portrait fell somewhere in the middle, where square necklines on breezy tops and maxi dresses were trimmed with ruffles and cut to reveal bow-tied backs, made from airy cotton poplin in black, white and hot pink.

Which is all to say, you can go full Demelza from Poldark with bulging-bodice romanticism, or take a more modern, minimalist approach.

And thankfully, the square neck will flatter bodies of all shapes and sizes. For slim women or those with a smaller bust, a fitted square neck can help to create the illusion of curves, drawing the eye and emphasising the bustline.

It's also a great option for busty women keen to avoid necklines that create a matronly 'shelf' effect or leave you feeling overexposed. The crisp, angular design forms a sharp line that highlights your natural shape while maintaining coverage.

Those concerned about widening the hips will find square necks can help to balance out proportions and elongate your frame. Plus, the collarbone and décolletage is one of the few areas women find universally attractive, and the square neck will accentuate and show it off.

Scarlett Johansson opted for a Versace blazer dress with a square neckline during her recent awards season run, paired with black tights and courts. Combined with the long sleeves and short hem, the square neck nicely straddles the line between revealing and modest, while also putting a fresh spin on a classic 80s look.

Florence Pugh's sequinned Galvan dress, meanwhile, showcases a very 2020 take on the square neck. With beachy waves and gold sandals, the effect is confident, cool and totally modern - we'll take the neckline, but we can leave those archaic notions about feminine purity and demureness in the 18th century, where they belong.