Donal Skehan’s simple seafood suppers – crudo three ways, salmon poke bowl and BBQ squid and fennel salad

A visit to my hometown of Howth and the row of fishmongers is always inspiring when it comes to choosing what’s for dinner. This week I have three simple seafood suppers. I urge you to try crudo this summer, particularly when you can get your hands on the freshest fish. It is an Italian dish with raw fish or shellfish often dressed simply with olive oil, citrus and seasonings. Similar dishes from around the world include ceviche from Peru, marinated in citrus juice; poke from Hawaii, combining diced raw fish with soy sauce and sesame oil; carpaccio di pesce from Italy, with thin slices of fish dressed in olive oil and lemon. Each dish highlights the fresh, delicate flavours of raw fish in unique ways and I have three variations, worth saving to try.

Speaking of crudo, poke from Hawaii is another unique way of highlighting fish at its most fresh, combining diced raw fish with soy sauce and sesame oil. It’s served cold over rice and incredibly satisfying. You will no doubt have seen the rise of poke bowl restaurants which have popped up in the last few years, but making them at home is very simple.

A BBQ squid and fennel salad is particularly easy to make if you get some prepared squid, as it cooks in minutes. Tender squid, char-grilled and smoky, is delicious enjoyed with crisp fennel and a zesty citrus vinaigrette. The combination of textures and flavours makes it a standout dish, ideal for outdoor gatherings.

All the recipes here are simple to recreate and definitely worth banking for the summer evenings ahead.

Crudo Three Ways

Serves: 4, as side dishes

Time: 1 hour

Ingredients for ceviche sea bass:

• Juice of 2 limes
• 1 red chilli, finely chopped
• 1 tsp sugar
• 2 fillets sea bass
• Handful of fresh coriander leaves
• 4 radishes, thinly sliced
• A few slices of lime

Method:

1. Mix together lime juice, red chilli and sugar in a bowl.

2. Finely dice the sea bass and add to the dressing.

3. Allow to sit for a maximum of 10 minutes then serve straight away with coriander leaves, radishes and lime slices.

Ingredients for the Japanese salmon:

• 60ml yuzu juice
• 1 tsp fresh ginger, grated
• 1 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tbsp sesame oil
• 1 tsp wasabi
• 2 fillets sushi-grade salmon
• Kewpie mayonnaise, to serve
• 2 spring onions, thinly sliced and stored in iced water for 1 hour
• 1 tbsp sesame seeds, white and black, toasted and cooled

Method:

1. Mix the yuzu, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil and wasabi together in a bowl.

2. Thinly slice the salmon, add to the bowl with the dressing and allow to sit for 5 minutes.

3. Dress with dots of kewpie mayo, spring onions and some sesame seeds.

​ Ingredients for Scandi-pickled mackerel:

• 2 fresh mackerel fillets, deboned
• 1 onion, thinly sliced
• ½ bulb fennel, thinly sliced
• 70ml white wine vinegar
• 30ml water
• 30g caster sugar
• 1 tsp coriander
• ½ tsp caraway seeds
• Sea salt
• 100g yoghurt
• 1 tsp fresh horseradish, grated
• Pinch sugar
• Zest of ½ a lemon
• Handful of fresh dill

Method:

1. Add the mackerel to a bowl with the onion and fennel.

2. Mix the vinegar, water, sugar, coriander, caraway seeds and a pinch of salt together in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Allow to cool, then pour over the mackerel, fennel and onions and leave to pickle for 1 hour.

3. Meanwhile, mix together the yoghurt, horseradish, sugar and lemon zest in a small bowl and set aside.

4. Drain the pickling liquid off the mackerel, fennel and onion mix and serve with the yoghurt and dill.

Salmon Poke Bowl

Serves: 4

Time: 25 minutes

Ingredients

• 225g sushi rice
• 2 tbsp reduced salt soy sauce
• 1 tbsp mirin
• Pinch of chilli flakes
• 2 tsp sesame oil
• Generous pinch of sugar
• 500g sashimi-grade salmon, diced
• 3 spring onions, thinly sliced
• 1 avocado, sliced
• 1 tbsp white and black sesame seeds

Method

1. Rinse the sushi rice really well, changing the water a few times until it no longer runs milky white. Fill a saucepan with 350ml cold salted water and add the rice. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes, or according to the packet instructions. Remove from the heat, cover and set aside for 10 minutes, then fluff up with a fork and leave to cool slightly.

2. Use a fork to blend the soy sauce with the mirin, chilli flakes, sesame oil and sugar. Pour over the salmon and let stand for no more than 5 minutes.

3. Divide the just-warm rice between four bowls. Top with the salmon, spring onions and avocado. Scatter with the black and white sesame seeds and serve.

BBQ Squid and Fennel Salad

Serves: 4

Time: 35 minutes

Ingredients

• 2 fennel bulbs
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• Zest and juice of 1 lemon
• Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper
• 200g squid, scored and sliced into 1-inch pieces
• Drizzle olive oil
• 1 large or 2 small oranges, cut into segments
• 2 mini cucumbers, sliced
• Large handful of coriander leaves, roughly chopped
• 6 tbsp olive oil
• 1 garlic clove, finely grated
• 1 red chilli, finely chopped
• Handful of micro cress

Method

1. Trim and finely slice the fennel, using a mandoline if you have one, then place into a bowl of iced water for 20 minutes.

2. Preheat the barbecue to a high heat.

3. In a pestle and mortar, bash the fennel seeds into a light powder with the lemon zest and a good pinch of salt & pepper. Sprinkle over the squid and drizzle with a little olive oil, then mix well.

4. Drain the fennel, then pat dry and transfer to a serving bowl or platter with the orange segments, cucumber slices and most of the chopped coriander.

5. Place the squid on the hottest part of the BBQ, and grill, turning every 30 seconds or so, or every time it starts to char, curl up and turn from opaque to white — about 2-3 minutes.

6. Add 6 tablespoons of olive oil to a bowl with the lemon juice and whisk to combine. Stir in garlic, chilli and a pinch of salt and pepper.

7. Drizzle this over the grilled squid before serving on top of the fennel and orange salad and sprinkle over the remaining coriander and the micro cress.