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How to do a chemical peel at home, according to a dermatologist

Plus, the IndyBest approved at-home chemical peel treatment you need to know about

Louise Whitbread
Freelance beauty editor
Monday 17 June 2024 17:33 BST
Chemical peels can be the quickest way to achieve a glowy, smooth complexion
Chemical peels can be the quickest way to achieve a glowy, smooth complexion (The Independent )

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Louise Thomas

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Editor

Chemical peels are often deemed a controversial skin treatment, with videos of flaking skin falling off people’s faces popular across TikTok and Instagram. However, the reality is much more subdued. Chemical peels are an exfoliating procedure that can improve texture, slough off dead skin cells, boost radiance and even skin tone. They can also be used to treat acne, age spots and sometimes freckles.

They can be found in two places; in-clinic and in at-home treatments. DIY peels are the more economical choice, of course, but also tend to be gentler and often require little to no downtime.

To help you better understand how and why chemical peels are beneficial to skin, we’ve spoken to Dr Ellie Rashid, consultant dermatologist and medical director at Klira Pro, who has shared with IndyBest the benefits of chemical exfoliating, what results to expect and how to tweak your skincare routine to speed up the skin healing process.

What is a chemical peel and how can it benefit skin?

Dr Rashid explains a chemical peel is a skin-resurfacing procedure that involves applying a chemical solution to the skin to exfoliate and remove the outermost layers.

“The new, regenerated skin is typically smoother, less wrinkled, and may have a more even tone and texture. Chemical peels can benefit the skin by reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improving the look of mild scars, treating certain types of acne, diminishing age spots, freckles and enhancing the overall appearance and feel of the skin,” she says.

Typically, chemical peel solutions include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as lactic acid, mandelic acid and glycolic acid, beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) with salicyclic acid and sometimes poly hydroxy acids (PHAs) which include gluconolactone, galactose, and lactobionic acid. You can find our complete guide to skincare acids here.

“There are two types of chemical peel, ranging from a more gentle at home peel that involves skincare acids to gently buff away dead skin cells; and the deeper and higher concentration chemical peels that are performed in dermatology or beauty clinics that involve some downtime,” says Dr Rashid.

How long does it take to see results?

The results of an at-home chemical peel often depend on the strength of the one you use, as well as your skin’s tolerance to chemical exfoliants, but Dr Rashid explains that you typically expect to see initial results within a week.

“This timeframe allows the skin to exfoliate. Full results, including the reduction of fine lines, improved texture, and a more even skin tone, may take several months as the new skin continues to develop and heal,” she says.

How often should you do a chemical peel at home?

Again, the frequency of doing an at-home chemical peels is determined on what type of peel you use, but Dr Rahsid recommends to start with once a week, then if you experience no irritation, you can increase to twice weekly.

“A chemical peel should leave you with a tingling sensation but not lead to prolonged redness or burn the skin,” the dermatologist reveals.

Should you change anything in your skincare routine after a chemical peel at home?

After a chemical peel. Dr Rashid says it’s important to make small changes within your daily routine to support your skin’s healing proceess. She advises to be cautious when using vitamin A derivatives such as retinol, retinal or tretinoin as these can cause irritation.

“Use a gentle and soothing moisturiser and cleanser to help support the actives in your skincare routine, and apply a broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF of a minimum of 30 and UVA protection as your skin may be more sensitive to UV light,” she explains.

In our guide to the best face moisturisers, the Kate Somerville delikate recovery cream (£69, Lookfantastic.com) took the top spot for sensitive skin, thanks to its luxuriously rich texture that’s a soothing balm for irritated skin. “It leaves skin immediately softer and smoother, and sat well beneath make-up, however we loved applying a generous layer before bed to wake up to a soothed complexion in the morning,” said our tester.

Despite its thick texture, it’s not greasy in the slightest and worked well for our our oily skinned reviewer
Despite its thick texture, it’s not greasy in the slightest and worked well for our our oily skinned reviewer (The Independent)

We’ve also got you covered with our review of the best facial sunscreens, in which the La Roche-Posay anthelios UVmune 400 oil control fluid (£20, Lookfantastic.com) came out on top for its fluid texture, mattifying finish and fast absorbing formula. Our beauty writer Lauren wrote, “incredibly easy to apply, the thin neck tube dispenses just the right amount to cover every area of the face, and the lightweight lotion instantly absorbs into the skin.”

What are the best at-home chemical peels?

If you’re unsure where to start, our team of shopping experts have done all the work for you and discovered the best chemical peels for every skin type, which we’ve tried and tested at home.

Earning the top spot was the Dr Dennis Gross alpha beta universal daily peel pads (£21, Lookfantastic.com). The five-pack of pads contain glycolic, lactic, malic, citric and salicylic acid, retinol and green tea extract, and were highly rated for the fuss-free application process and how fast we saw results.

This IndyBest-approved at-home chemical peel is easy to use and delivers glowy skin fast
This IndyBest-approved at-home chemical peel is easy to use and delivers glowy skin fast (The Independent)

In each sachet, there’s two pads. Swipe the first one onto clean, dry skin until it dries out, then do the same with the second wipe. Our reviewer reported instant luminosity. “Not only did it reduce the appearance of pores around the nose, but the first signs of wrinkles and uneven texture on the forehead were improved as well,” they said. There was also no irritation, stinging or increased redness, an experience our writer has had with at-home chemical peels in the past.

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Looking for more skincare recommendations? Read our complete guide to skincare acids, from AHAs to BHAs

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