Hike between an old railroad and a wild river in northeast Oregon

The Wallowa River Railroad Hike is not considered one of northeast Oregon’s finest. Guidebooks can’t recommend it. Locals will point you elsewhere. It’s not even on AllTrails. The Wallowa Mountains, home to truly world class hiking, are right there.

But when I found the excursion on the Oregon Hikers Field Guide, I was immediately struck by a picture of the perfectly parallel rails running through the rugged river canyon. It felt like something different, possibly something special.

The Wallowa Union Railroad, also known as the Joseph Branch, has been open to foot traffic ever since it stopped carrying freight, the field guide explained, with much of the land now in public hands or approved for public recreation. For roughly a decade it’s also been the target of a broader-reaching “rail-with-trail” plan that would build a safe walking path along the old rails, which could continue to be used.

While freight no longer runs on these tracks, they are still used by the slow-moving Eagle Cap Excursion Train as well as the Joseph Branch Railriders, whose pedal-powered vehicles might actually be the best way to traverse this stretch. It’s best to keep your eyes and ears open as you walk, or just schedule your outing around theirs.

While riding these rails might be easier than walking, there is a benefit here of going slow. The wild and scenic portion of the Wallowa River runs between its meeting with the Minam River to its confluence with the Grand Ronde River – a nine-mile stretch that passes craggy cliffs, rolling hills and beautiful scenery, including wildflowers in the late spring and summer.

The beauty of the place is without doubt. The only question is whether the tedious walk is worth it.

Starting from a gravel parking area off Oregon 82, just above the Minam Store, the hike heads downriver along the tracks, running about as long as you care to go. The tracks continue all nine miles before turning up along the Grand Ronde River, but going that far would be madness. The field guide recommended a turnaround spot a little over two miles in – I would even suggest stopping a little sooner.

From the start, the rails curve around to the northwest, then north along a gradual bend in the river before turning sharply east into a forested part of the canyon. Here, the tips of craggy cliffs glow red, fringed with yellow grass and vibrant green foliage. Rafters and kayakers pass by, bobbing on the gentle waters. Across the river is the Minam State Recreation Area campground, home to a small group of primitive campsites.

All along the hike I was faced with a choice: to walk on the gravel or to walk on the wooden railroad ties. Neither option was perfect, but each had its moments, and I found myself constantly going back and forth between the two. There were times when the tamped-down gravel path disappeared, especially as the bank narrowed and steepened, forcing me onto the ties. But the ties, not syncing up with my stride, proved to be a frustrating walking path.

While annoying to walk, the hike was inarguably beautiful. I quickly fell into silent reflection as I walked, meditating on the contrast between the rigid rails and the chaotic river. Walking here, I straddled both worlds, which began to feel like two sides of myself. When in my life is that rigidity necessary? When can I let go into chaos?

My thoughts were interrupted frequently by passing rafters who looked on and waved, as well as patches of wildflowers that bloomed along the riverbank. Wild roses popped up from the brush. St. John’s Wort grew in small clusters from the rocky soil. Pink geraniums intermixed with yellow wildflowers that I couldn’t quite identify.

The natural setting was wild and gorgeous, but the physical experience of the hike left a lot to be desired. The rail-with-trail plan would fix this, but progress has so far been slow.

This year, the Joseph Branch Railriders, who are behind the effort, announced the opening of a “pocket park” alongside the old railroad in nearby Elgin, which promises to be the first step in a process that would eventually build a 63-mile trail from there out to Joseph. The park also serves as a trailhead to the first 1,056 yards of trail, the La Grande Observer reported in June, but there are still many, many more yards to go.

For now, with so many other ways to explore this stretch of the Wallowa River, hiking feels like a silly choice. But for those who don’t mind a little tedium, and enjoy a slower pace, there’s something special about walking the rails.

To reach the Wallowa River Railroad Hike trailhead from Joseph, take Oregon 82 west for 37 miles. Turn right at the Minam Store, and park in the gravel lot beside the tracks.

--Jamie Hale covers travel and the outdoors and co-hosts the Peak Northwest podcast. Reach him at 503-294-4077, jhale@oregonian.com or @HaleJamesB.

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