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Everything you need to see from the spring/summer 2022 collections
From New York to London, Milan and Paris, we round up the biggest moments of the new season
For the last 18 months and the past three fashion seasons, the concept of a traditional fashion week has not existed. As a result of the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic and the social restrictions that have come with it, designers have not been able to host catwalk shows in the way we once knew them, with many fashion houses turning to digital formats or hosting audience-free shows, with some even forgoing the concept altogether. However, last September, we saw more in-person fashion shows than we have experienced for a very long time. Although the schedules were still not quite back to normal, a loosening of restrictions in the four major fashion capitals allowed fashion week to take place in a physical setting – and plenty of designers returned to the catwalk for the first time since March 2020.
The schedule began in September in New York City, where there was quite the buzz around the shows as fashion's finest flew into town for the Met Gala, which was postponed to Monday 13 September. The fashion set then headed to London, Milan and Paris, where there was be plenty of excitement with the return of the front row, debut designer collections and a beautiful tribute to the late Alber Elbaz in Paris, where 40 designers have paid homage to his work with a collection dedicated to the couturier.
Below, we round up every major catwalk moment you need to see from New York, London, Milan and Paris as designers across the globe presented their spring/summer 2022 collections.
With thanks to Mercedes Benz
Jacquemus
As per its new approach, Jacquemus did not present its spring/summer 2022 collection last September, but instead hosted its show this week, just before the pieces will drop in stores. This occasion marked the brand's first show outside of France, choosing to host the colourful show on a beach in O‘ahu, Hawai‘i.
"The islands of Hawai‘i, with their awe-inspiring landscapes, diverse climates, and untold biodiversity, stood out as the perfect complement to the exuberant 'Le Splash' collection...As a guest to Hawai‘i, Jacquemus is taking great care to respect this location, culture, and way of life. We are primarily working with talent and businesses from O‘ahu and the neighbouring islands to leave as small of a footprint as possible."
Celine
Celine chose to present its spring/summer 2022 collection on Nice's historic Promenade Des Anglais, a site which was built in the 18th century by the English aristocracy who took up a second home for their winter residence.
The collection, entitled 'Baie des Anges', nodded to this historic setting, and was presented via a beautiful catwalk film, directed by Hedi Slimane himself, and starring Kaia Gerber.
Scroll down to see the highlights and watch the full show here.
Alexander McQueen
Naomi Campbell closed the spring/summer 2022 Alexander McQueen show, marking the first time the British brand has shown in London for five years. Titled ‘London Skies’, the catwalk event was held in a specially constructed dome overlooking the city skyline.
“I’m interested in immersing myself in the environment in which we live and work in London, and in the elements as we experience them each day,” said creative director Sarah Burton.
The elements were depicted throughout the collection, from dreamlike cloud prints, to clothes inspired by the unpredictability of storm chasing, and variations on the glittering night sky.
Louis Vuitton
Nicolas Ghesquière described the spring/summer 2022 collection as "le grand bal of Time", celebrating opulence with a fairytale collection which nodded to the house's history but with the relaxed touches that the creative director has become known for. Louis Vuitton is currently celebrating what would have been its founder's 200th birthday, so it was certainly a fitting mood – and a beautiful end to the first real-life Paris Fashion Week we've been treated to in a few years.
Chanel
As if we needed any more confirmation that the Nineties are the current decade of inspiration, Virginie Viard paid tribute to Karl Lagerfeld's supermodel-studded catwalks of the decade with a show that recreated the traditional runway setting, complete with photographers leaning onto the catwalk. The collection – which was filled with Nineties swimwear and Clueless-inspired skirt suits – was an ode to the creative director who came before her.
"Because fashion is about clothes, models and photographers," Viard said. "Karl Lagerfeld used to photograph the Chanel campaigns himself. Today, I call upon photographers. I love the way that they see Chanel. It supports and inspires me.”
Miu Miu
Presenting perhaps the tiniest mini skirts we have ever seen, Miuccia Prada's first Miu Miu collection back on the catwalk was all about officewear, but in a very back-to-school way. Low-slung waistbands and extremely short hemlines were the order of the day, with plenty of layered shirting and knitwear.
Lanvin
Entitled 'Comic Strip', Lanvin's SS22 collection was described by the house as "a reconsideration of the meaning of Lanvin – its signs and signifiers, its fundamental definition".
"A Lanvin that resonates with the 2020s to the same degree that Lanvin defined the 1920s – a dialogue between past and future. The collection by Bruno Sialelli is a tribute to the house’s identity, its ideology, remixed for where the world is today."
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