Regulator watches are like the band who on first listen sounds a bit too weird and geeky, but after another go, you become totally obsessed and realise how cool and significant they are. Looking at you, Kraftwerk. For many, they can be a bit of a slow burner; not your cup of tea at first sight but then you learn more about the origin and purpose and you're swayed.
The regulator is possibly the most niche of complications — which can be intimidating, but it’s actually just a fancy name to say that the minutes, hours and seconds display time from different points on the dial (the minute hand is centrally located and has the biggest length).
Not how we’re used to reading time, but it served a purpose, historically. Back in the days before precision digital clocks were invented, watchmakers would set and adjust their timepieces against a super precise reference regulator clock. “A regulator is the bridge between several aspect of mechanical watches: it reflects precision, it is super easy to read the minutes and it is the bridge between the large clocks of the past and the watches on our wrists,” says Thomas Brechtel, a watch writer and photographer in Cologne (who also happens to be a big Kraftwerk fan).
Brechtel puts it bluntly: “A regulator was the first uncommon, weird, ugly watch I saw,” he says. “And after a day or two, I began to like it, to admire it.” Today, Brechtel has an extensive collection of regulator watches. “A regulator for me is the first, the last, the everything. It’s so different. I am fascinated by watches that nobody has, or that look weird.”
So embrace your inner geek, press play on ‘Autobahn’ and let these regulator watches grow on you.
Want to dip your toes into the regulator world without having to break the bank? The Sinn 6100 is a good place to start. The German brand is known for its durable, reliable and high-quality timepieces, and this one is no exception. We like how simple and straightforward this one is, with the contrasting blue hands and markers. £1,580. At jurawatches.co.uk
The design of this A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange model was inspired by the chronometer used by German natural scientist Alexander von Humboldt on his expedition to Latin America. While you’re probably not embarking on that kind of journey with your watch, it’s a cool story to think about. It also features a jumping hour, another niche complication. What more could you ask for? POA. At alange-soehne.com
So sleek. A modern and minimalistic take on the historical complication, handmade by independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès. “A regulator I want to have in the next few years is the Raúl Pagès RP1,” says Brechtel. “It is beautiful. The movement is out of this world. And Raúl Pagès is one of the nicest persons I have met.” Nuff said. POA. pageswatches.com
This Patek Philippe 5235R was inspired by a regulator clock hanging in former Patek Philippe president Philippe Stern’s office. The dial features the usual regulator-style big central minute hand and two sub-dials for hours and seconds, but Patek took it further and added a perpetual calendar, with the day, month, and date shown through three different windows. That would usually make a dial overly busy, but this one is flawlessly executed. £50,970. At patek.com
Louis Erard is known for its amazing regulators (“There are several,” says Brechtel, “too many to choose from”). So we went for the crisp white version with the elegant guilloché dial, which adds texture and dimension to the otherwise clean dial. The slightly overlapping hour and seconds sub-dials are aligned horizontally, so if you’re into symmetry, you’ll get some pleasure out of that one. CHF 2,245. At louiserard.com
British watchmaking at its weirdest (and most impressive) with the Garrick Regulator MK, made by hand in Norfolk of all places. The handmade-to-order timepiece features a long minute hand set against a selection of intricate dials, included frosted and engine-turned in a choice of colours such as a fiery red and an inky black. While the estimated wait time is about a year, it’s actually not that long in the watchmaking world. £13,194. At garrick.co.uk
Another no-frills regulator design, without too many colours or added complications, and another favourite of Brechtel. “The Union is so well designed, looks so balanced,” he says. “It clicks for me, because Union has a long history in making regulator dial pocket watches. You wear a piece of Glashütte history.” And the best part is, you pay entry level price for a German-made regulator with a classic design. €2,680. At union-glashuette.com
We like how an old-school complication is housed in a modern, sporty package. The Alpiner Regulator does things a little bit differently, with hours at 10 o’clock and seconds at 6 o’clock, in sub-dials of varying sizes (warning: if asymmetry gives you anxiety, this one isn’t for you). But if you want to flex a geeky complication with the aesthetics of a sports watch, this one does the trick. £2,295. At alpinawatches.com
A minimalist’s dream. You get the time, and that’s about it. German brand Junghans was inspired by Bauhaus style (form follows function, less is more and all that) for its Max Bill collection, named after the Swiss architect and designer. The only thing that stands out is the orange-hued minute and hour hands, and it honestly doesn’t need more, it’s perfectly fine as it is. £2,295. At jurawatches.co.uk
“I am truly a traditionalist. For me, a regulator has to be as simple and classic as possible. No overload, no fancy colours, no super-complication. Just hours, minutes, seconds, bright and clear dial. Manual wind movement. Super precise movement. Easy to read.” Fair to say this Chronoswiss model ticks all Brechtel's boxes. £5,400. At jurawatches.co.uk