Beyond the streets of San Francisco: three spectacular Bay Area runs

San Francisco’s running scene has it all: beaches, trails, forest, elevation and beautiful views. And you can tick each of these boxes in a single run. When Runner’s World compiled its list of the 50 best running cities in America, San Francisco took first place.

The city’s many microclimates mean the weather tends to be predictable: it’s rarely too sunny or rainy, and the famous fog (anthropomorphised as “Karl”) keeps the city cooler than the rest of the Californian coast.

What also makes running here exceptional, compared to other big cities such as New York or London, is the accessibility of trails. Even if you just find yourself in Golden Gate Park — an area one-fifth larger than Manhattan’s Central Park that is home to 10 lakes, a bison paddock, countless gardens and a polo field — it’s the forests and dirt paths you’ll want to explore, not the paved roads.

Yes, there is road-running in the city too, but that can be found anywhere, so in recommending my favourite runs here, I’ve chosen trails each time. Were I to highlight a few more, they’d all be trails, too.

Ocean Beach to Golden Gate Bridge (four to 12 miles)

• Good for: Variety. There are many ways to run this route and so it never feels the same

• Not so good for: Avoiding people — it’s popular with tourists, hikers and families

• Distance: Anywhere from four to 12 miles, depending on your starting point (Strava)

This run convinced me that I should take the opportunity to move from Germany to San Francisco a few years ago. It showed me the city has quiet residential areas, stretches of empty beaches and a community of running enthusiasts.

One great thing about it is that you could do it 10 times and never take the same course. It can be as short as four miles or more than 10, depending on where you start and the route you take.

The run starts anywhere on Ocean Beach, a 3.5-mile stretch of white sand strangely bereft of tourists that is popular for kite surfing on windy days. To keep the total run short, you could start at the northern tip, where historic Cliff House restaurant overlooks the Pacific Ocean. To add nearly four miles of running in the sand, begin south at Fort Funston, a sprawling recreation area for off-leash dogs that also serves as a launching pad for hang-gliders.

From Cliff House, you’ll start with the gorgeous ocean views from Lands End, a park with a striking rocky and windswept shoreline. Running north-east along the water, you navigate dirt paths alongside cyclists and tourists. The terrain is not technical but will surprise you with stairs and winding paths.

Eventually it leads to Sea Cliff, one of the most sought-after residential areas of the city. The manicured lawns, sports cars and oceanfront properties offer a nice break from the trail. Upon exiting with a hard left (probably best to follow my map here), you run downhill into a forest that leads to Baker Beach.

Here, you Choose Your Own Adventure. If you head towards the water, you can run the length of the beach, then dash back up a set of stairs and continue north towards the Golden Gate Bridge. Or there are myriad forest trails adjacent to the beach. Either way, you’ll end up next to Marshall Beach, where the Instagram-worthy views present similar choices — although once down to the water, I haven’t found a comfortable way to come back up to the trail without retracing my steps.

It’s difficult to get lost, because the Golden Gate Bridge is within sight the whole time, serving as your North Star, and the trail can be followed right to it. The east side of the bridge is open to pedestrians during the day, and I always run its length. (You have to, it’s iconic.)

From here, the question is how to end this run. My typical journey is an out-and-back return to Ocean Beach, which ranges from 10 to 12 miles. But you could easily end at nearby Crissy Field and hail a ride home. Or grab a coffee at Warming Hut & Bookstore Café and lie in the sun.

Ninja Loop (11.8 miles)

• Good for: Beginner-intermediate trail runners (with stamina)

• Not so good for: Anyone who doesn’t like hills

• Distance: 11.8 miles (Strava)

This is a great beginner-trail run if you’re up for the distance. It offers stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge and Sausalito, a city across the Golden Gate Strait from San Francisco — plus 2,200 feet of elevation. It makes a nice introduction to the boundless Marin Headlands peninsula.

The terrain is mostly dirt throughout, with some stairs. It’s not technical — meaning it’s well manicured rather than a series of shifty rocks, roots and branches — but it’s a perfect escape from the city. If you’re seeking solitude or a chance to listen to hours of podcasts, you’ll enjoy this.

The start is just across the Golden Gate Bridge, from the north-west parking lot of Conzelman Road. The trailhead begins in the parking lot, which is typically empty and manned by a security guard (a nice plus in a city known for smashed car windows).

The 11-mile-plus distance might sound daunting, so it’s worth keeping a few things in mind. Trail running tends to be slower in pace and longer in distance. Amateurs (like me) walk the inclines, for instance, and the mix of downhill and uphill works different muscles and reduces the monotonous motions that lead to aches and pains common to road runners. Plus, because you need to drive to the trailhead, it makes little sense to go far out of your way for a four-mile run.

This run is also basically a giant circle run without coverage from the sun, so you’ll want sunscreen. (Or join a group of runners who run the 8.7-mile “light” Ninja Loop at 6am every Thursday to catch the sunrise.) Internet is unreliable, so it’s best to pre-map your route on an app like Strava or AllTrails. You might want a CamelBak or equivalent for carrying water. And layer up — there’s an old joke that a sizeable portion of the Bay Area’s economy is selling fleece sweaters to tourists surprised by the cool air and fog.

Dipsea, Steep Ravine and Matt Davis Loop (6.6 miles)

• Good for: It’s technical and keeps you on your toes

• Not so good for: Anyone in a rush. You’ll want to stay for lunch, swim and wander around Stinson Beach

• Distance: 6.6 miles (Strava)

The renowned Dipsea Race is the oldest trail-running event in the US, dating back to 1905. It’s difficult to get into — thousands of runners vie to be one of the 1,500 entries — and the many entrants tend to clog up the trail, especially as it’s also subject to a host of quirky rules that give slower runners a head start. I’ve offered this running route for those who missed last year’s, or want to give it a go before the next event (in June).

For a recreational runner, the problem with the Dipsea Trail is that it begins in Mill Valley and ends at Stinson Beach. That means you either double-back, making it a 13.7-mile run, or you have to arrange a ride from Stinson Beach, which can be difficult as it’s 20 miles north-west of San Francisco. Instead, the loop I’ve shared here starts and ends at Stinson Beach, which means you can drive there and reserve time to have lunch, swim, and wander around.

The run is mostly forested with famous California redwoods, so it’s fine to go even on a hot day. It’s one of the Bay Area’s most technical trails, with tree roots, narrow passages, zigzag paths and even ladders perched on rocks, but it’s nevertheless safe with no opportunities to fall off an edge. (Though the drive there is a bit harrowing: it’s the stuff of car commercials, with winding roads wedged between cliffs and the ocean.)

This trail is difficult — so it’s best reserved for advanced runners — but the sweeping views of the Pacific, spectacular landscapes and a serious sense of accomplishment make it well worth the effort.

Maps by Liz Faunce

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