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The Best Retinol Serums And Creams For Your Smoothest, Plumpest Skin Yet
Plus, experts explain the science behind the vitamin A boom
If you’re old enough to remember the beauty trends of the Nineties - namely gritty face scrubs, skinny brows, and the original juicy tube - it might be time to get acquainted with retinol.
Chances are, you've already heard about this long-loved skincare hero. Famed for helping to improve a number of skin complaints, the dermatologist-approved derivative of vitamin A is considered to be the gold standard in skincare.
Today you can find it in the form of retinol serums and moisturisers, body treatments and even retinol eye creams; in different percentages and formulations, and enriched with a multitude of ingredients that work together to boost collagen production, improve acne and increase cell turnover, to name only a few of the skin-boosting benefits.
What does retinol do?
‘Retinol is an over-the-counter form of a group of substances referred to more broadly as retinoids,’ explains consultant dermatologist and La Roche-Posay expert, Dr Justine Hextall. 'Retinoids work by binding with the retinoic acid receptors in the skin, which help stimulate faster turnover of skin cells'.
'Retinols are probably the most evidence-based treatment to reduce the visible signs of ageing caused by UV exposure. Retinols reduce wrinkles, increase collagen, treat active acne and reduce scarring and unwanted pigmentation,' she continues. Indeed, clinical trials have repeatedly shown retinol to improve skin cell turnover and minimise the breakdown of collagen (which leads to fine lines), but that’s not all: retinol has also been shown to help with skin concerns such as acne, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, dryness, rough skin texture and blemishes. That's why Dr Hextall recommends retinoids for those 'looking to smooth fine lines, improve skin texture and reduce unwanted skin pigmentation.'
‘Almost everyone can benefit from having a retinoid in their skincare routine, and the key is to start low and gradually build up over time,’ agrees dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips. That's because, in untrained hands or overused, retinol can cause sensitivity. 'Particularly for anyone with sensitive skin, retinoids can cause irritation and dryness. It's very important to balance soothing, hydrating products with a retinoid,' says Dr Hextall.
So before you dive straight in, we asked Dr. Sam Bunting, founder of Dr Sam's Skincare, for her tips on how to use retinol the right way.
How to incorporate retinol into your skincare routine
Understanding how to use retinol isn't always a straightforward affair. 'A good kick-off plan is to start slowly, every other night, using a pea-sized amount if you’re a first-timer doing this at home,' says Dr Bunting. 'You can then begin to build up to nightly use after a couple of weeks, as your tolerance levels start to improves.'
'If you’re nervous, like a lot of people are, it can be helpful to start a retinoid under expert guidance so that you have a structured plan and someone to check things with, especially as the first six weeks can be a bit up and down, particularly if you have acne. But in the long run, the effort is usually worthwhile,' says Dr Bunting.
It's also important to ensure you're only ever using vitamin A as part of your nighttime routine (unless specified as safe and formulated to use during the day), because UV exposure deactivates most retinoids, rendering them all but useless. Another vital point to note is that you should always use a broad-spectrum SPF moisturiser the day after using retinol. 'SPF should be everyone’s first step for tackling fine lines because at least 80% of why we age is due to environmental aggressors and is preventable. Retinoids can make skin more sensitive, so extra UV protection is essential.'
Which ingredients work well with retinol?
For anyone who's played victim to retinol's slightly irritable reputation, it's really important to understand not just the percentage of the retinol you're using, but also the ingredients that work best with it - not to mention the ones that don't.
When it comes to retinol, you're best off avoiding strong actives like AHAs (glycolic and lactic acid) and BHAs (think salicylic acid) as these exfoliating acids together could cause irritation. Though some experts say to avoid using vitamin C with retinol,
Dr Phillips says it's not off limits. Instead he recommends using a vitamin C serum in the morning and a retinol in the evening.
So, now you’re all clued up, it’s time to dive into our verdict on the very best retinols out there – from retinol serums to retinol eye creams, formulas for sensitive skin, and dark spots, and even one for extra added brightening benefits, there's a retinol for everyone. Plus, be sure to check out the latest regulations affecting the future of retinol, too.
Shop The Best Retinol Skincare
In a recent video for Bazaar UK, in which Sienna Miller revealed the contents of her handbag, there was one surprising beauty product -an assuming retinol cream which had been recommended by her friend Alexa Chung. She refers to the affordable cream as 'the French girl secret to great skin.' What sets it apart isn't fussy packaging or a complicated ingredients list but rather the combination of fatty acid palmitic acid with retinol, which helps target fine lines while also nourishing and protecting the skin barrier.
Developed for the delicate skin around the eyes (your under-eye area is the thinnest on your face and, therefore, needs extra TLC), this formula combines a powerhouse of ingredients, including wrinkle-fighting retinol and brightening caffeine, and has been tested for those with especially sensitive skin.
CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum with Ceramides & Niacinamide
Trust CeraVe to come up with another winning formula that offers the skin-boosting benefits of retinol minus the drawbacks. In other words, a retinol serum that helps boost cell turnover and minimise acne scars all while protecting your precious skin barrier.
So popular is this hardworking yet affordable serum on social, it keeps selling out and has racked up around 50 million views on TikTok. In fact, ELLE UK's own Katie Withington credits it with completely clearing her skin.
We find it hard not to be lured in by the luxe exterior of Augustinus Bader skincare (it's the perfect shelfie addition, after all) but there's science and cutting-edge tech working for those aesthetically-pleasing bottles too.
In this case, adding retinol with the brand's TFC8 technology helps boost skin cell turnover, fade acne scars and target fine lines more efficiently.
There's a reason why this formula has garnered cult status. Not only does it provide retinol its purest form, but it works alongside a powerhouse of soothing ingredients to ensure your dermis stays nourished and your skin barrier protected.
You may have heard the buzz around the more recent retinal eye cream launch, but this Medik8 retinol formulation is where things began for the brand. The science-backed vitamin A serum is designed to work with the skin during its beauty sleep phase, firming and plumping while you catch thirty winks.
The 0.3% retinol infusion layers well with other products, making it super easy to incorporate into a nightly routine. It works to target evenness of skin tone, brightness and balancing of congested pores, and it works quickly on skin texture to smooth out any bumps. Sign us up.
Elizabeth Arden's genius portion-size capsules mean you get the perfect amount of retinol serum for each application. Formulated to visibly reduce lines and wrinkles without drying skin, these are the ultimate entry-level option. The capsules are convenient for travelling with, and they're biodegradable, too.
Kiehl's Retinol Fast Release Wrinkle-Reducing Night Serum
We love the lightweight texture of this serum and the fact it absorbs into skin quickly. It made a visible difference to both skin's texture and fine lines – this really is Kiehl’s promise of ‘dermatologist solutions’ delivering its finest performance.
Powered by clever Tri-Active technology (a combination of three different types of retinol) this super lightweight serum feels weightless, whilst rapidly transforming your skin. The idea? To achieve the benefits of retinol without the annoying side effects.
It layers well with other skincare products, making it easy to incorporate into an existing routine – something that only serves to make us love it more.
First there was retinol, then there were retinol alternatives. Ideal for sensitive skin sufferers or if you're pregnant (retinol isn't tested on pregnant women so results are inconclusive), REN's plant-based bio retinoid replacement is just as effective as the original.
Gentle on skin, it soaks in quickly and over time promsies to help reduce hyperpigmentation while making skin plumper and appear more radiant, without being sticky or greasy.
This excellent value Olay offering is touted as the brand’s most potent retinoid solution so far, but with lashings of 40% more hydrating ingredients to negate dryness, it promises all the benefits without any retinol repercussions.
The silky consistency is satisfying to use, and it leaves skin looking and feeling soft and supple. Long term, it works to help smooth fine lines and generally improve the look of skin overall.
Yes, you absolutely can use retinol if you have sensitive skin, you just have to find the right one and remain cautious. La Roche Posay's lower concentration (0.3%) means sensitive skin is less irritated but the benefits are no less effective — a much more sensible route for retinol beginners, so if you'd previously blacklisted retinol because of irritation, give this game-changer a go.
If you've tried (and loved) Sunday Riley's Luna oil, this is the next step up. It combines 1% encapsulated, stabilised retinol with (less potent) retinol ester, plus humectant white honey to counteract the drying effects.
Retinoid first-timers should use the 'two days on, two days off' schedule, while seasoned users can apply nightly, following with a hydrating oil (the brand's soothing Juno is the perfect match).
Retinol doesn't get more affordable than The Inkey List's serum. Coming in at just £12.99, this lightweight formula combines 1% stable retinol with a slightly stronger 0.5% granactive retinoid to encourage skin cell turnover and reveal the glow below. So, if you’re looking for something inexpensive to ease you into retinol, give this brand a try.
Amelia Bell is the Senior Site Beauty Editor at ELLE UK, developing beauty strategy, writing, editing, and commissioning, and overseeing all beauty content for the site. Amelia has a particular interest in sustainable beauty practices, exploring the skin-mind connection, and decoding the latest treatments, tweakments and runway trends. She also has bylines for Women's Health, Refinery29, British Vogue, Harrods Magazine, and more.
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