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The Best Retinol Serums And Creams For Your Smoothest, Plumpest Skin Yet
Plus, experts explain the science behind the vitamin A boom
If you’re old enough to remember the beauty trends of the Nineties - namely gritty face scrubs, skinny brows, and the original juicy tube - it might be time to get acquainted with retinol.
Chances are, you've already heard about this long-loved skincare hero. Famed for helping to improve a number of skin complaints, the dermatologist-approved derivative of vitamin A is considered to be the gold standard in skincare.
Today you can find it in the form of retinol serums and moisturisers, body treatments and even retinol eye creams; in different percentages and formulations, and enriched with a multitude of ingredients that work together to boost collagen production, improve acne and increase cell turnover, to name only a few of the skin-boosting benefits.
What does retinol do?
‘Retinol is an over-the-counter form of a group of substances referred to more broadly as retinoids,’ explains consultant dermatologist and La Roche-Posay expert, Dr Justine Hextall. 'Retinoids work by binding with the retinoic acid receptors in the skin, which help stimulate faster turnover of skin cells'.
'Retinols are probably the most evidence-based treatment to reduce the visible signs of ageing caused by UV exposure. Retinols reduce wrinkles, increase collagen, treat active acne and reduce scarring and unwanted pigmentation,' she continues. Indeed, clinical trials have repeatedly shown retinol to improve skin cell turnover and minimise the breakdown of collagen (which leads to fine lines), but that’s not all: retinol has also been shown to help with skin concerns such as acne, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, dryness, rough skin texture and blemishes. That's why Dr Hextall recommends retinoids for those 'looking to smooth fine lines, improve skin texture and reduce unwanted skin pigmentation.'
‘Almost everyone can benefit from having a retinoid in their skincare routine, and the key is to start low and gradually build up over time,’ agrees dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips. That's because, in untrained hands or overused, retinol can cause sensitivity. 'Particularly for anyone with sensitive skin, retinoids can cause irritation and dryness. It's very important to balance soothing, hydrating products with a retinoid,' says Dr Hextall.
So before you dive straight in, we asked Dr. Sam Bunting, founder of Dr Sam's Skincare, for her tips on how to use retinol the right way.
How to incorporate retinol into your skincare routine
Understanding how to use retinol isn't always a straightforward affair. 'A good kick-off plan is to start slowly, every other night, using a pea-sized amount if you’re a first-timer doing this at home,' says Dr Bunting. 'You can then begin to build up to nightly use after a couple of weeks, as your tolerance levels start to improves.'
'If you’re nervous, like a lot of people are, it can be helpful to start a retinoid under expert guidance so that you have a structured plan and someone to check things with, especially as the first six weeks can be a bit up and down, particularly if you have acne. But in the long run, the effort is usually worthwhile,' says Dr Bunting.
It's also important to ensure you're only ever using vitamin A as part of your nighttime routine (unless specified as safe and formulated to use during the day), because UV exposure deactivates most retinoids, rendering them all but useless. Another vital point to note is that you should always use a broad-spectrum SPF moisturiser the day after using retinol. 'SPF should be everyone’s first step for tackling fine lines because at least 80% of why we age is due to environmental aggressors and is preventable. Retinoids can make skin more sensitive, so extra UV protection is essential.'
Which ingredients work well with retinol?
For anyone who's played victim to retinol's slightly irritable reputation, it's really important to understand not just the percentage of the retinol you're using, but also the ingredients that work best with it - not to mention the ones that don't.
When it comes to retinol, you're best off avoiding strong actives like AHAs (glycolic and lactic acid) and BHAs (think salicylic acid) as these exfoliating acids together could cause irritation. Though some experts say to avoid using vitamin C with retinol,
Dr Phillips says it's not off limits. Instead he recommends using a vitamin C serum in the morning and a retinol in the evening.
So, now you’re all clued up, it’s time to dive into our verdict on the very best retinols out there – from retinol serums to retinol eye creams, formulas for sensitive skin, and dark spots, and even one for extra added brightening benefits, there's a retinol for everyone. Plus, be sure to check out the latest regulations affecting the future of retinol, too.
Shop The Best Retinol Skincare
Amelia Bell is the Senior Site Beauty Editor at ELLE UK, developing beauty strategy, writing, editing, and commissioning, and overseeing all beauty content for the site. Amelia has a particular interest in sustainable beauty practices, exploring the skin-mind connection, and decoding the latest treatments, tweakments and runway trends. She also has bylines for Women's Health, Refinery29, British Vogue, Harrods Magazine, and more.
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