There are so many hyped-up skincare ingredients fighting for our attention these days, yet few are as widely praised as niacinamide.
Retinol? It’s great – but not everyone needs it. (If you're too young to remember SATC the first time around, you probably don't.) Alpha hydroxy acids? They can be brilliant for thorough exfoliation, but finding the right one for your skin type can be a minefield.
That’s the secret to niacinamide's success: it’s an all-round crowd-pleaser. This wonder vitamin is suitable for pretty much every skin type, and its benefits are easily reaped. What’s more, you don’t need to be a cosmetics chemist to understand how to use it correctly.
So stay with us for a deep dive into everything you need to know about niacinamide – what is it, what it'll do for you, how often you can use it, and the best niacinamide serums to place your trust in.
What is niacinamide?
'Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3', explains Andrea Pfeffer, founder of facial clinic Pfeffer Sal. 'Vitamins from this group are particularly famous for their soothing and healing properties.'
Found in certain foods and as a dietary supplement, niacinamide is perhaps best known today as an ingredient within your lotions and potions. Among its many talents 'it helps improve the visible appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, tackle pigmentation, regulates oil production and help moisturise the skin,' shares Dr Malvina Cunningham, a consultant dermatologist at Skin + Me.
The latter makes it an excellent ingredient to add to your current line-up now that winter is firmly on the horizon, the clocks have gone back and your skin is no doubt feeling a little parched again.
What are the benefits of niacinamide for the skin?
What exactly does niacinamide do? Well, this vitamin is a bit of a show-off when it comes to benefits for our skin. From boosting hydration to fading hyper-pigmentation, there's not much it doesn't claim to help with.
'Niacinamide works as an antioxidant and helps to fight harmful compounds caused by sun damage,' shares Dr Cunningham. 'It also increases the production of ceramides, which keep dry skin feeling more nourished and your skin barrier protected.' This can be a saviour when it comes to warding off any possible side effects associated with harsher or more potent active ingredients used in conjunction with niacinamide.
But is it all too good to be true? According to Paula Begoun, founder of Paula's Choice, this is one case where we really should believe the hype. 'Topically, niacinamide has so many ways to help skin it’s mind boggling,' she says.
'Extensive research has shown niacinamide works to protect skin from environmental damage and also prompts production of collagen and hyaluronic acid. It improves hydration, reduces signs of ageing, diminishes enlarged pores, and significantly lessens skin discolouration', she says.
Indeed, the studies do stack up in niacinamide's favour. It has been shown to reduce inflammation in moderate acne just as well as stronger, prescription-only treatments, and research has shown it can limit the overproduction of sebum in oily skin types, which in turn balances pore size. What’s more, it has even been proven to fade hyperpigmentation.
'Niacinamide is the ultimate multitasker,' agrees Pfeffer. In fact, it's one of the only skin boosters that she recommends to almost all of her clients (along with hydration hero hyaluronic acid and, of course, SPF). 'It’s compatible with many other actives so you can incorporate it into your routine easily without worrying about adverse reactions.' she explains.
So, how can one ingredient be such a catch-all skin hero? According to Begoun, there are a number of factors. 'One way is because of its powerful antioxidant properties. Another is how niacinamide helps generate other important substances in skin. Even more notable is how it works as a "cell-communicating ingredient". This means niacinamide can "talk" to all kinds of cells in skin, telling them to make better, healthier, younger acting cells.
Studies have also shown niacinamide to be able to penetrate well into the skin when simply applied topically.
Do we actually need niacinamide in our skincare?
Our bodies don't naturally produce niacinamide, but we can get it via our diets (providing we’re eating a healthy, varied range of foods). So, do we need to be supplementing our skin with it?
As Begoun explains, topical skincare can deliver a beneficial boost that could be the difference between good skin and great skin. 'Niacin is found in foods such as grains, fish, meat, and beans and converts to niacinamide when eaten. For the body, oral intake of niacin has been shown to have incredible benefits for health, and for skin, topical niacinamide is supported by long-standing research showing a wide range of remarkable benefits for all skin types and all ages,' she confirms.
Which skin types will benefit from niacinamide?
Both Pfeffer and Begoun agree that most of us can benefit from a dose of niacinimide in our skincare routines. However, your skin type will determine which kind of product you should choose.
As niacinamide is such an all-rounder, it tends to be combined with other ingredients in order to tailor the product's appeal: for example, a niacinamide product or dry skin may be bolstered with hyaluronic acid, while a niacinamide product for oily skin might contain clarifying salicylic acid. For sensitive types, something containing simple, soothing hydrators will be the best approach.
For oily skin that's prone to clogged pores, Begoun recommends a water-light serum, and for dry skin an emollient moisturiser or hydrating toner containing a lower concentration of niacinamide will do the trick.
'So many of us are in need of barrier strengthening and repairing, especially those who live or work in urban areas where pollution is higher,' says Pfeffer. 'And as an added bonus, niacinamide is safe to use throughout pregnancy and breastfeeding when hormonal fluctuations can wreak havoc on the skin (although do check the other ingredients in the product too).'
Are there any side effects to consider?
'Niacinamide is usually a very well tolerated active ingredient by most skin types,' says Dr Cunningham. 'In rare instances, it has been known to cause mild stinging, slight redness or irritation,' she warns.
For the most part, however, almost everyone can reap the rewards of this skin hero. And, since it's more gentle than its other skincare counterparts, it's usually regarded as safe to use during pregnancy, too.
Is is okay to use niacinamide every day?
Yes, unlike some of your less-than-easy-going skincare ingredients (retinol, looking at you) niacinamide is one that you can use every day, morning and night, alongside most other actives. 'That means you can use it in the evenings post-cleanse mixed with other active ingredients, or you can incorporate it into your morning routine layered underneath sunscreen, of course,' Dr Cunningham concludes.
Roberta Schroeder is the Senior Ecommerce Editor at Harper's Bazaar, ELLE and Esquire, overseeing shopping strategy and content across fashion, beauty, and travel. Roberta has reported on everything from market-leading skincare brands to the world’s most iconic fashion pieces, while also regularly updating a range of shopping guides, including LED masks, heritage cashmere brands and niche new dress brands to know.
Roberta has over fifteen years' experience in the luxury sector, spanning editorial consultancy, trend forecasting and journalism. Over the years, she has worked for global brands including Farfetch, Chanel, and Vogue.
When not testing beauty products, trialling trends and curating content that spotlights the very best in fashion and beauty, Roberta can usually be found trawling resale sites and vintage stores for a long-coveted designer find.
Follow Roberta on Instagram at @roberta__schroeder
Amelia Bell is the Senior Site Beauty Editor at ELLE UK, developing beauty strategy, writing, editing, and commissioning, and overseeing all beauty content for the site. Amelia has a particular interest in sustainable beauty practices, exploring the skin-mind connection, and decoding the latest treatments, tweakments and runway trends. She also has bylines for Women's Health, Refinery29, British Vogue, Harrods Magazine, and more.