A Culinary Guide to the 20 Arrondissements in Paris

Spiraling outward from the center of the city, Paris’s 20 numbered arrondissements are a series of zoned administrative districts. They largely coincide with the city’s organically formed neighborhoods, though some areas cross arrondissement boundaries, like the Marais, which encompasses both the 3rd and 4th. But the arrondissements aren’t just bureaucratic designations; each has its own identity, from the spectacle of palatial boutiques and actual palaces in the premier (1st) to some of the city’s best Chinese cuisine and the unmissable Père Lachaise cemetery in the vingtième (20th).

While most tourists stick to the central arrondissements along the Seine — the 1st, 4th, 6th, and 7th in particular — every arrondissement has something to offer. Staying in the center makes for easy access to the main tourist destinations, but if you’re interested in sheer proximity to good eating and even better nightlife, you’re usually best off in the 2nd, 10th, 11th, 19th, and 20th. Here’s the lowdown on every neighborhood, from iconic to underrated, with quick-hit intel on the best places to eat in each.

1st Arrondissement

Luxury goods, high-end hotels, the Louvre, and offices fill the 1st — which all adds up to plenty of unremarkable restaurants designed to cater to busy workers, undiscerning tourists, or both. However, the neighborhood is also home to Rue Sainte-Anne, aka Little Tokyo, which is great for slurping udon, ramen, or soba when you just can’t stomach another multi-course French meal. Bubble tea has also exploded in the 1st, as well as throughout Paris. To note: Many restaurants in this business-oriented district tend to close on weekends.
How to say it in French: Le premier.

2nd Arrondissement

Expect lots of activity here at night, thanks to the cocktail bars that line Rue Saint-Denis (and the historic community of sex workers who frequent the area). During the day, it’s a mix of gritty wholesale textile district, staid stock exchange, and picturesque markets along Rue Montorgueil. Rue du Nil is well worth a visit for Terroirs d’Avenir (a series of specialty food shops that supply just about every restaurant in town) and chef Grégory Marchand’s mini-restaurant empire of Frenchie, Frenchie Wine Bar, and new Italian spot L’Altro Frenchie. You might not originally plan to eat a hot dog in Paris, but the historic cocktail bar Harry’s makes one of the best versions around, alongside serious classic cocktails. You can balance out the hot dogs, with a great vegetarian meal at Tekes too.
How to say it in French: Le deuxième.

3rd Arrondissement

Ah, the Haut Marais, where you can’t throw a macaron without hitting a third-wave coffee shop or a willowy fashion type. There are lots of kale chips, cocktails, and juice bars too. During Fashion Week, avoid this chic neighborhood at all costs. Any other time, the city’s oldest covered market, the Marché des Enfants Rouges, is a well-known dining destination, and is particularly busy on weekends and sunny days. Les Enfants du Marché and the Butcher of Paris are two of your best bets within the market; just be prepared to be seated outside on a high stool in all weather conditions. Parcelles is just a short walk away for lovely bistro food with a superb wine list.
How to say it in French: Le troisième.

4th Arrondissement

The Lower Marais is where Jewish history and the queer community merge with modern art galleries and chain shops. Rue des Rosiers is (rightfully) famous for its many falafel stands, but you could also consider branching out to the Parisian outpost of Israeli restaurant Miznon for some of the best sandwiches in town. Place des Vosges, arguably the most attractive square in all of Paris, is a short stroll away. For a more formal seated meal (and prize-winning oeufs mayo), the elegantly retro Grand Brasserie is a great option near the Bastille.
How to say it in French: Le quatrième.

5th Arrondissement

The Latin Quarter (so named for its many educational institutions, including the Sorbonne, which once taught Latin) is still home to many students, but it also bustles with tourists — and thus tourist traps. Bonvivant is your best bet for reliable planches of cheese and charcuterie served on a nice terrasse, while Chinaski offers more creative French fare.
How to say it in French: Le cinquième.

6th Arrondissement

Saint-Germain-des-Prés is very pretty and has great shopping, though it can be a bit touristy, as it’s centrally located near most of the major monuments, museums, and parks. The once staid part of town is undergoing a nightlife revolution, making it an exciting place to drink right now. Skip anywhere made famous by Hemingway and head instead to Cravan, a townhouse packed with three cocktail bars in one, along with a bookstore and a rooftop movie screen.
How to say it in French: Le sixième.

7th Arrondissement

The Eiffel Tower is the draw in this otherwise fairly quiet residential area, which means good eating can be tricky. Still, smoky, lively Chez L’Ami Jean serves a famous salted-caramel rice pudding that makes the tiny spot a favorite of locals and tourists. Another great option, Café Varenne is the kind of superior all-day cafe that should be on every corner.
How to say it in French: Le septième.

8th Arrondissement

Oh, Champs-Élysées. You won’t find many charming neighborhood establishments or sweet bistros here. Instead, large international chains squeeze in cheek by jowl with three-Michelin-star temples of haute gastronomy, which demand astronomical prices to match their rococo interiors. Le Mermoz is a refreshing antidote to overhype.
How to say it in French: Le huitième.

9th Arrondissement

Some people call the South Pigalle neighborhood SoPi — but you don’t have to be one of them. While this area just next to Montmartre used to be best known for its red light district, more recently it’s become a cocktail destination. There are also great independent shops, music venues, and excellent restaurants like Le Bon Georges, the bistro that everyone wishes was in their neighborhood. Rue des Martyrs — lined with bakeries, cheese shops, and other delights — is one of the best streets in all of Paris for culinary tourists. Farther south, large department stores, offices, and the stunning Palais Garnier opera house round out the neighborhood.
How to say it in French: Le neuvième.

10th Arrondissement

This is where Parisians go to picnic. On any nice evening or weekend, the Canal Saint-Martin is lined with people playing guitars and cracking open bottles of wine. Beyond the canal, the neighborhood is young and fun, with lots of small shops and boutiques. Head here for Australian- and English-inspired breakfasts at Holybelly or Ten Belles, grab an ice cream cone at JJ Hings, and hit up the bistro Les Arlots or the accompanying wine bar Billili, conveniently located near the Gare du Nord. If you don’t have a train of your own to catch, train-watch from the terrace of Café Les Deux Gares; this station-adjacent spot is worth checking out for chef Jonathan Schweizer’s unique flavor combinations.
How to say it in French: Le dixième.

11th Arrondissement

It will shock no one that some of the best dining in Paris isn’t clustered around the morass of tourist attractions (and traps) in the center of the city. Rather, many of the most dynamic restaurants can be found in northeastern neighborhoods, particularly the historically working-class 11th arrondissement, where low real estate prices have allowed entrepreneurs to flourish. The sheer concentration of destination-worthy bars and restaurants makes the 11th an ideal home base for the food-focused traveler, whatever else may be on your agenda. You can eat and drink well at Mokonuts, Clamato, Tapisserie, Cafe du Coin, Jones, Le Repaire de Cartouche, Kubri, Gramme, Fulgurances, BMK Folie Mericourt, and Le Tagine.
How to say it in French: Le onzième.

12th Arrondissement

The Bastille and the Bois de Vincennes anchor this area, full of rowdy spots for study-abroad kids interspersed with cosmopolitan natural wine shops and bars. The Marché d’Aligre is one of the best open-air markets in the city. Hit it before noon and then head to the Promenade Plantée, a walkway that served as inspiration for New York City’s Highline. Nearby, you have Passerini, one of the best Italian restaurants in the city. Closer to the Gare du Lyon, pop into L’Esprit for an excellent coffee or brioche, before grabbing a creative cheese sandwich at Olga to go.
How to say it in French: Le douzième.

13th Arrondissement

There are Asian restaurants galore in the 13th, but pay particular attention to pho joints like Pho 14 or Chào Bà. The Butte-aux-Cailles area is a quirky hilltop oasis where you’ll find the original Chez Gladines, a cheap, cheerful mini-chain beloved by students for its huge portions.
How to say it in French: Le treizième.

14th Arrondissement

Montparnasse often feels like a giant shopping mall, thanks in part to the Montparnasse Tower, a high-rise straddling the 14th and 15th arrondissements. While it may offer one of the best views of Paris, the building remains controversial in a city of such otherwise uniformly beautiful architecture. Avoid it and head to the Catacombs, the city’s ancient underground burial site; if all those skeletons don’t dampen your appetite, follow up your visit with a meal along Rue du Montparnasse, which is lined with Breton eateries, like Josselin, that make excellent buckwheat galettes and salted-caramel crepes. There’s also L’Assiette, one of the best bets in the city for classic French cooking.
How to say it in French: Le quatorzième.

15th Arrondissement

Similar to New York’s Upper East Side, this residential area is lovely, boring, and filled with young families and pensioners. Accordingly, everything closes early and stays shuttered on Sundays. There are lots of old-timey bistros, so classic French cuisine is a good choice. Au Roi du Café is one that looks like it’s been around forever, even though it’s brand new from the team behind Café Varenne in the 7th. For something a bit more unexpected and modern, head to the natural wine bar Les Jajas de Juju. It’s the kind of spot that wouldn’t feel out of place in Belleville or the 11th, but is noticeably cool for the somewhat stodgy 15th.
How to say it in French: Le quinzième.

16th Arrondissement

Embassies and old French money mix in le Seizième, where lots of elderly ladies don’t pick up after their dogs. It’s reminiscent of the neighborhoods around the Eiffel Tower or bits of the 8th arrondissement, minus the tourists. There’s very little reason to eat in this area, save for the table d’hôtes (prix fixe menu) at the shop of celebrity butcher Hugo Desnoyer and the haute gastronomie at Comice.
How to say it in French: Le seizième.

17th Arrondissement

This neighborhood is drawing an increasing number of young professionals, and its wine bars and restaurants are heating up accordingly. La Félicité is a sweet neighborhood wine bar, while Gare au Gorille has a tightly edited modern French menu. The areas around Batignolles park and Villiers are wonderful for market shopping and strolling.
How to say it in French: Le dix-septième.

18th Arrondissement

Wear sensible shoes to the hilly, cobblestone areas of Montmartre and the Goutte d’Or. Home to many sex shops, the Moulin Rouge, and the city’s only vineyard, and close to the big flea markets, this area is vibrant, diverse, and occasionally dodgy. The French consider it to be très Brooklyn. Head to Poney Club for natural wine and small plates, Atelier P1 for baked goods, Mehmet for kebabs, or the incredibly lovely Clove Coffeeshop, which feels like a sanctuary amongst tourist traps.
How to say it in French: Le dix-huitième.

Soces

19th Arrondissement

The Parc de la Villette, the city’s third-largest park, used to be the site of the Parisian slaughterhouses, so it’s fitting to eat at old-school steakhouse Au Boeuf Couronné, just across from the park. Buttes-Chaumont, a former quarry, is one of the most beautiful parks in the city, with incredible views for a picnic. Belleville’s revolutionary history and strong immigrant influence make the neighborhood one of the most exciting areas in the city to be eating and drinking, including great cocktails at Combat, Chinese Italian fusion at Cheval d’Or, and refined seafood at Soces.
How to say it in French: Le dix-neuvième.

20th Arrondissement

The historically working-class neighborhoods of Belleville and Ménilmontant are now home to a large Chinese community and young transplants. Le Baratin is a neighborhood legend serving deeply soulful classic French food, while Paloma has the best and most creative lunch formules (set menu) in town. Pay homage to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at Père Lachaise cemetery, before checking out delightful restaurants like Caché, Amagat, and Santa Silvia, which are all tucked away on cobbled side streets.
How to say it in French: Le vingtième.

Catherine Down is a James Beard nominated food writer who has been based in Paris for the last decade. She writes for the New York Times, Condé Nast Traveler, Trip Advisor, and Travel & Luxury, among others. Ciao Down is her creative agency which crafts culinary events, bespoke private food tours, and travel itineraries throughout France.