Perhaps it’s the city’s historic charm that does it. Lying on the hilly north bank of the Duoro River, Its burst of colour, cultural delights and famed Port wine cellars might also do the trick. Even UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site in 1996, making Portugal’s second-largest city a place to see and behold. But in early June, Primavera, the annual music festival founded in Barcelona, descends on Porto’s famous Parquet da Cidade do Porto, bringing with it some of the world’s biggest acts to perform across a frenetic weekend of sun, sea and sounds.
Since 2012, this has been the case but whereas Barcelona is seen as the older sibling, Porto holds a different charm, described as its “sister festival” by Alberto Guijarro, the festival’s director. It is “a different type of event; what we do in Portugal is a Primavera boutique, more well-kept, smaller and with its own personality”. Billed as Primavera Sound Porto, this year witnessed the likes of Lana Del Rey, SZA, Mitski, PJ Harvey, Pulp, Ethel Cain and Obongjayar grace its stages across the weekend of June 06- 08.
Front row seats were secured way in advance and the excitement was palpable on Lana’s headlining night. With the same stage design as her Coachella set from earlier this year (sans the memorable Motorbike entrance), Lana belted out her “sad-girl songs” both newer and as well as fan favourites. At one point, she was joined on stage by a gospel choir then moments later, could be seen twirling around a pole before whispering in her Piano player’s ear. Her performances are as brilliantly chaotic as she undoubtedly is.
There is something uniquely un-European about Porto. At times, you could find yourself transported far from Europe as you’re winding up and down its hilly terrain. There is an enchanting blend of medieval influences with modern styles. Iconic landmarks and breathtaking views. Intimate fado performances line the streets as night falls and which gives it a really intimate and romantic feel. Plus the Ubers are insanely cheap which is always a sell when you’re out and about exploring. So, when I wasn’t getting into the festivities I found myself taking the city in for all its worth.
From deep cuts (Normal Girl) to brand new bangers (Rich Baby Daddy), Sea bought a swashbuckling set to Porto. Inspired by all things nautical, lifted from her sophomore album’s Princess Diana-inspired cover, water was a constant theme running throughout. The choreo-heavy segments were a pleasant surprise that showcased SZA’s dancing abilities alongside those characteristically cursive vocals we know and love.
There aren’t many festivals held within earshot of the ocean let alone a few minutes walk away, so it’s only right that you take great advantage when doing Primavera. The nearest beach is Praia da Matosinhos, only a short 10-minute walk from the venue but a little further down is the Praia da Luz, which takes the cake. If you’re not up for the late night dip, then its probably best to start your festival evening off at the beach before washing off and heading off to the festival.
