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Yellow Pages has dropped, Luar leads the CFDAs awards list, and more fashion news you missed this week...

15September 2023

Ring ring! No, it’s not HMRC or a fuzzy voice concerned about that bad car accident injury you forgot you sustained… Selfridges has launched Yellow Pages – a ‘directory of now’ for fashion, design and culture this season.

The free printed zine – given the green light with special permission from Yell to use the name of the iconic British household staple – is a guide to what to see, buy, and peruse in AW23. It features design by Civilization founder and Interview mag editorial director Richard Turley, and contributions by Paul Flynn, Sherbert Biz, Ed Cumming, Ayo Ojo, and Georgia Graham among other collaborators. In its pages and in digital and audio form, peep the season's trends on Kristen McMenamy and the art of Gray Wieblebinski, and read an interview with Talking Heads about their legendary concert film Stop Making Sense (as well as the things that *do* make sense to them. David Byrne chats about their first 'high-risk' festival show, and Tina Weymouth lauds nudity under a belted trench coat, natch).

The Yellow Pages zine’s features get made physical in a series of IRL activations and installations that highlight the best culture and fashion moments happening in the next few months.The department store windows across London, Manchester, and Birmingham will exhibit an installation of Danny Boyle’s production Free Your Mind (as its debut takes place at the Manchester International Festival), Gray Wieblebinski’s art (to coincide with their ICA exhibit), and STYLE NOT COM founder Beka Gvishiani’s first UK production of his ALL CAPS commentary for London Fashion Week. In a first too, Selfridges is launching its first ever ‘audio windows’ for the visually impaired, to showcase the zine’s headlines.

More IRL installations with Versace, NEWGEN, Jil Sander, Nina Ricci by Harris Reed and Martine Rose will also take place across the Selfridges spaces, as well as the opening of Jackson Boxer’s new restaurant at The Corner and a music venue, the Selfridges Lounge, with Jamz Supernova helming the first residency. The Jil Sander Kiosk comes to Europe for the first time, and to coincide with the 30th anniversary of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN talent initiative, NEWGEN alumni including Ahluwalia, Christopher Kane and Erdem have contributed signature prints made into keepsakes that will be made for sale.

Yellow Pages is available at Selfridges stores in London, Manchester and Birmingham; at Shreeji Newsagents on Chiltern Street, Unitom in Manchester, The NEWGEN show space at the Old Selfridges Hotel and Manchester’s Factory International in Manchester. Audio and digital versions are available now online.

And here’s all the rest of the fashion news from the week…

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Photography Rowan Liebrum

GANNI AND KIM NGUYEN TEAM UP TO TAKE DOWNTOWN

The colourful cool of Copenhagen's GANNI and the downtown spirit of New York-based Vietnamese designer Kim Nguyen meld together in an exclusive NYFW collab. Dropped this week, the six-piece collection aligns both the label and designer’s sustainable sensibilities and love of colour and graphics. Nguyen has designed for brands like Marc Jacobs and Supreme, and has become known for the Nguyen Inc brand’s bold, handmade and upcycled fitted tees. And ofc, GANNI stole the show at this year’s Copenhagen Fashion Week. They’ve collaborated twice before, including a run of corseted upcycled t-shirts, minis and tanks. This time, the collaborative capsule takes inspiration from signature GANNI pieces as well as Nguyen’s Vietnamese heritage and love of the 90s and MTV classics, using leftover textiles and fabrics from the brand’s previous seasons.

“Kim and I share a love for collaboration and I adore her energy, her approach to creative processes, and her passion for finding more responsible ways to design. Being able to champion emerging women designers like Kim is what our GANNI community is all about,” said GANNI’s creative director Ditte Reffstrup.

“GANNI and I share a lot of the same values when it comes to sustainability. Their unwavering effort to design responsibly, all while still keeping the integrity of their own style, is what makes collaborating with them so harmonious. When Ditte came to visit my studio I immediately felt like she understood me and what I want to achieve,” Nguyen said.

The collaboration is available on GANNI’s website now.

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Photography Steven Meisel for Valentino

KAIA GERBER GOES BLACK TIE FOR VALENTINO

Get painful flashbacks to the taffeta and M&S ties of your school formal when you think ‘black tie’? Well, Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli wants to reimagine the rules of formal wear. So Kaia Gerber brings a punk and playful aesthetic touch to the maison’s new Black Tie campaign. The house’s campaign asks questions of the formal dress code, personal expression, timelessness and masculinity – all modelled by Valentino darl Kaia, and shot by Steven Meisel in Oheka Castle, New York.

The Italian label’s signatures of studs and roses punctuate the looks, but see Kaia take on both playfully masculine and acutely feminine fits in turn. She models an opulent ruffled shirt dress with a mini tie, avec combat boots. Then, a red rose mini skirt with an XXL red trench and black feathered boots. More classique looks, shot in stark black and white, include a tuxedo two-piece, and a collared and tied mini-dress. To the ball!

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HITCH A RIDE WITH JORDANLUCA FOR AW23

Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto’s label JordanLuca takes AW23 to the truck rest stops, overpasses, and highways of Britain in its latest campaign, shot by Thomas Cristiani. The campaign’s cast of characters model the London label’s touchstones of tailoring, shirting, and elongated silhouettes, inspired by the ideas of office attire. It’s also the duo’s latest expansion of their womenswear selection. The collection spans knitwear, leather outerwear and diaphanous sheer dresses stamped with butterflies, with snakeskin, trucker-style plaids and denim abundant. Is the bus still running?

JordanLuca AW23 is available now from jordanluca.com.

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RAUL LOPEZ AND JW ANDERSON LEAD A FAB CFDAS AWARDS LIST

In that gulf – well, enough time to change from your Sambas to your Shox – between New York and London Fashion Weeks, the Council of Fashion Designers of America has announced the nominees and honourees for this year's CFDA Fashion Awards.

The list is pretty hefty, from industry mainstays to rising new-gen. Raul Lopez of Luar is nominated twice for Womenswear Design of the Year and Accessories Designer of the Year (he scooped the accessories award in 2022) – this is just as Luar closed out fashion week with a heavenly, hedonistic collection - Sunday best suiting paired with skimpy thongs.

The Womenswear category also features Tory Burch, Khaite's Catherine Holstein, Christopher John Rogers, and Joseph Altuzaara. The Menswear category is dominated by emerging designers like Will Chavarria, KidSuper's Colm Dillane, as well as Amiri, Teddy Vonranson, and then Thom Browne. The Accessory also features Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row. The American Emerging Designer of the Year features Carly Mark for Puppets and Puppets, Bach Mai, Connor McKnight, Rachel Scott, Diotima, Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kasell of Tanner Fletcher. Jonathan Anderson will be honoured as International Designer of the Year for his boundary-pushing work at his eponymous brand and Loewe. The Environmental Sustainability Award is set to go to Mara Hoffman.

This year's event is the first for the incoming chairperson, Thom Browne, who took the reins from Tom Ford in January. The awards will take place at New York's Natural History museum November 6.

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A DEEP DIVE INTO NEW YORK STYLE WITH KRISTEN BATEMAN

New York abounds with it-girls, cult-convening designers, main characters, Tabi stealers, style icons. Editor and writer (+ frequent Dazed contributor) Kristen Bateman has made a career of documenting fashion history, culture, and beauty as it happens in that big bad city and beyond. In Little Book of New York Style: The Fashion History of the Iconic City, she distils its subcultures, creatives, icons, staples and sensibilities into one stylish, effervescent collection. What defines New York style, an ecosystem of aesthetics and attitudes that is so recognisable, but somehow amorphous when you come to actually try to articulate it?

Bateman brings us back to NYC's beginnings as a fashion beacon, tracing the history of the city as the centre of clothing manufacturing for the US, to the earliest fashion weeks in the 60s, cultural touch points like J'Lo's Versace green dress, Carrie Bradshaw's wardrobe, the DVF wrap dress in the age of disco, Debbie Harry in denim and Grace Jones in very, very little. It’s a super fun, gorgeously illustrated and photographed romp as much as it is a studious, living artefact. Bible!

You can buy Little Book of New York Style now

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