It’s 2023, and everyone knows how really freakin’ essential it is to incorporate sunscreen into their skincare routine, right? I mean, considering skin cancer is the most common form of cancer in the United States and is caused by, well, you guessed it: UV rays. And yet, on a daily basis, I’ve noticed that those around me either (a) don’t apply sunscreen enough or (b) don’t apply sunscreen at ALL. So I think it’s time to reiterate the SPF basics we should all know and practice: mineral vs. chemical sunscreen, which one you should be using, and why it’s so <bleeping> important.
Meet the experts:
- Annie Chiu, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of The Derm Institute in Manhattan Beach, California. She specializes in non-invasive cosmetic dermatology and aesthetics.
- Rachel Maiman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical and clinical instructor at Mount Sinai. She specializes in general and cosmetic dermatology, including injectables.
- Dendy Engelman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Shafer Clinic in New York City. Engelman recently spoke to Cosmo about the best sunscreens with no white cast.
What happens if you don’t wear sunscreen?
This may sound like a question you don’t think bears repeating (because, uh, you’ve heard it a million times), but it absolutely does. “Failing to wear sunscreen puts one at risk of photodamage,” says Dr. Maiman. Photodamage is the ~fancy~ way of saying the changes that occur to the skin resulting from UV damage. She explains that these changes happen when UV light hits skin unprotected by sunscreen, causing DNA changes at a cellular level in the dermis (aka the deepest layer of the skin).
Sooo what does this mean? Well, it can take a long time for this damage to become visible (read: years)—but once it does, that’s when you can begin to notice common repercussions of UV damage (i.e., premature wrinkles, dark spots, uneven skin texture, and potentially even skin cancer).
Reason number 532 to wear sunscreen whenever possible: “UV exposure is not always related to how warm it is outside,” says Dr. Chiu. (Guess what?! That means you should also wear sunscreen indoors!) Dr. Chiu says that you should use a daily SPF of at least 30 no matter the weather. Basically, wear SPF daily, and reapply OFTEN, k?
Mineral vs chemical sunscreen:
Now that that’s covered, let’s explain the two different types of sunscreen: mineral and chemical. There are pros and cons to everything, and this especially rings true with mineral and chemical sunscreen. “It is normal to choose different [SPF] formulations to fit your activities, from daily use to water sports,” says Dr. Chiu. Here’s a breakdown, but keep reading for the full explanation.
What is mineral sunscreen?
Mineral sunscreen, aka physical sunscreen, “works similarly to a shield, sitting on the surface of the skin and deflecting the sun’s rays,” says Dr. Maiman. Mineral sunscreen contains the active ingredients zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide, which are white-colored minerals that reflect light, meaning that mineral sunscreen is often the culprit of the infamous white cast on your skin.
But good news: If you want a mineral sunscreen without a white cast, you’ll be pleased to know that unlike the sunscreens of yesteryear, “there have been huge advancements in the way mineral sunscreens have been formulated and coded,” Dr. Engelman has told Cosmo. “They don’t necessarily have the same light reflection anymore.”
These advancements are key considering mineral sunscreen “works for all skin types and is especially great for sensitive skin,” says Dr. Chiu. So if you’re unsure which sunscreen is best for your sensitive skin, go with mineral. Another bonus? This baby works immediately after application. Just slather it on, and you’re good to go.
4 best mineral sunscreens to try now:
Ghost Democracy Invisible Lightweight Daily Face Sunscreen SPF 33
What is chemical sunscreen?
Chemical sunscreens “work similarly to a sponge by absorbing the sun’s rays,” says Dr. Maiman. Dr. Chiu explains that the UV rays are then transformed into heat and released from the skin. “Chemical sunscreen contains one or more of the following active ingredients: oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, and octinoxate,” says Dr. Maiman.
Typically, chemical sunscreens are more water- and sweat-resistant, making them great for active lifestyles and also for most skin types, explains Dr. Chiu. “These formulations are typically more cosmetically elegant—meaning they rub nicely into the skin without a residue of chalky hue,” says Dr. Chiu. Because of this, chemical sunscreen can take on more of a lightweight, sheer appearance (and some can even be a totally clear SPF).
Just remember: Chemical sunscreen needs time to absorb into the skin and take effect—usually about 15 to 30 minutes.
4 best chemical sunscreens to try now:
Is mineral or chemical sunscreen better for acne?
There’s nothing worse than applying a product and your skin either (a) breaks out or (b) becomes itchy, red, or irritated. Unfortunately, this is a common occurrence for those of us with sensitive or acne-prone skin. That’s why it’s incredibly important to find a sunscreen that works for your skin without irritating it, because, well, you f*cking need it.
“Because one of the causes of sunscreen-related acne breakouts is a sensitivity reaction to chemical UV-blocking agents, chemical sunscreens may not be the most optimal choice for those with acne-prone skin,” says Dr. Maiman. That said, sunscreen formulations are damn impressive nowadays, and there are plenty of chemical sunscreens on the market specially formulated for acne-prone skin.
It comes down to personal choice, but as always, a patch test beforehand is the safest way to go.
4 best sunscreens for acne-prone skin:
REN Clean Skincare Clean Screen Mineral Mattifying Face Sunscreen SPF 30
Are mineral sunscreens better than chemical?
There is a TON of speculation about whether chemical sunscreen is safe for use: “As far as safety, we cannot definitively say that mineral sunscreens are 'safer' than chemical sunscreens,” says Dr. Maiman. And because there are no clinical studies that prove that there are any issues healthwise with the use of chemical sunscreen, it truly comes down to personal preference.
In the end, Dr. Maiman and Dr. Chiu both agree as long as you’re using sunscreen correctly, you’re doing it right. “The safest sunscreen is one you will use diligently and reapply without issues, no matter the formulation, and that is the end of the story,” says Dr. Maiman.
Siena Gagliano is the associate editor at Cosmopolitan, where she primarily covers beauty, fashion, travel, and lifestyle. Wanna know how to get the best brows of your life? Gotchu. What about how to find the best fashion deals of the season, the softest sheets on the market, or exactly how to use retinol without irritating your skin? Check, check, and check. Before joining Cosmopolitan, Siena was a writer at Bustle and several other media outlets. As her 2024 goal, she has vowed to find the best (extra) dirty martini NYC has to offer—and yes, that means ~attempting~ to try every cute cocktail spot in the city (hit her up with some recs, pls). Follow Siena on Instagram for a behind-the-scenes look at that magazine life.
