Packing up a life in the city and moving to the mountains is a wishful thought for many people. The mountain calling is strongest, though, for those who have it in their blood. For Namita and Yogesh, a return to their roots in the hills of Kumaon was a dream they pulled out all the stops for. The couple quit their city jobs in Delhi, packed up their flourishing school in the foothills, and bought land 50kms away from Nainital, near the village of Sasbani on the fringes of Mukteshwar. Here, in the middle of an oak thicket, they built The Himalayan Homestead, a beautiful homestay for those who want to embrace a slow and deliberate pace in the bounty of nature. This is not their home away from home, but their one and only oasis, one that they share generously with travellers looking for a slice of solitude in the hills of Kumaon in Uttarakhand.
The Homestead
A gentle downhill walk from the road head leads you through a path lined with padam and kaphal, local birch and wild berry, until you arrive at a Narnia-like doorway in the woods. The Sasbani forest tumbles down the hill down far into the valley, a wild swathe of oak, rhododendron, pine, and alder. The wooden gate opens to reveal a tall cottage with vast verdant spaces and a pottery barn in the foreground. Lilies, iris and periwinkles pop out of the green, interspersed cleverly with kitchen greens. Wooden picnic tables are set against a backdrop of Himalayan peaks. Across this patch, the main building serves as the dining hall and common space for guests, featuring rustic wooden interiors and a warm fire. On the upper level are two of the five rooms, Divinity and Serenity. Outside the main building, the trail continues to the standalone cottage Nirvana, adjacent to the Himalayan pottery workshop space. Beyond that lies a duplex cottage with a room named Joyful on the lower level, and Bliss just above it. The latter opens into a balcony that sits suspended above the forest floor. Made of flattened iron bars with gaps that allow a glimpse at the green below, this is more treewalk than balcony.
The property is spread across an uneven acre, where you will find yourself walking up and down various levels. Namita and Yogesh have designed the rooms around the contours of the land, without disturbing a single tree. Their design philosophy is rooted in sustainable and minimalist living; each mud-and-stone cottage mimics the colours of the earth and is connected by pataal or slate-lined paths. The cottages stand on covered stilts which also support their balconies, the best hideouts to curl up with a book amidst birdsong. Inside, lush throws, rugs and bedcovers add pops of colour, and wraparound windows usher in the sights and sounds of the forest.
The Hosts
Educationists who ran a successful school for 25 years before embarking on this journey, Yogesh and Namita share a love for teaching and sharing skills. With Himalayan Homestead, they decided to channel the same energy by creating a space that is not only for recreation, but also for creation. Yogesh pursued his interest in pottery while Namita mastered baking while experimenting with local ingredients. Together, they continue to share this learning and passion with their guests in the form of activities. Either one of them is always available onsite as they live on the premises in their own cottage near the dining area, pottering around to oversee the menu of the day, planting new cuttings, conducting workshops, catching up with guests and taking them on walks through the forest or showing them around their orchards.
The Food
The hosts are strong advocates of sustainable living and clean eating, and they serve what they themselves eat. The food is vegetarian (though eggs are served), made with fresh, pesticide-free produce sourced from what they grow and from the villages around. The meals are simple yet hearty, with set menus designed daily depending on the kitchen garden report, or a particular dish requested by a guest. The cuisines vary from the local Kumaoni spread that covers everything from seasonal greens, local breads made with millet, and rice served with lentils such as horsegram and ‘kaapa’ or ground spinach curry, to the North Indian usual suspects. European dinners are gratifying ones with fresh pumpkin and tomato soups served with delightful herb breads, followed by multigrain pastas and ragi (finger millet) pizza. The highlight of every meal is the dessert of the day made by Namita (definitely ask for her chocolate mousse or eclairs). Namita’s breads are the star of the breakfast spread, teamed with delicious egg bakes. Don’t miss the turmeric bread, seasonal berry breads, or the nettle bread flavoured with the stinging grass! You can also have them with various homemade jams and jellies (like the malta marmalade). Namita often trains women in the surrounding villagesto make and package these preserves for their social initiative, and the products are sold under the Himalayan Homestead brand. A typical breakfast also has the regular poha and upma options, but you can skip those to indulge in their delicious masala paranthas, and homemade brownies with hand beaten coffee. The spread is best enjoyed outdoors in the sunny garden outside the pottery barn.
How to spend 48 hours at Himalayan Homestead
Yogesh conducts pottery retreats for groups, and individual classes for those who want to learn the basics or simply have some fun with clay in his beautiful open-air studio. Try your hand at throwing clay and bringing shapes to life under his watchful eye. If you’d rather shape dough, sign up for Namita’s baking workshop where you get individual guidance on the science of vegan baking, making sourdough breads, baking your own loaf (and taking it home) with alternative, healthy grains. Both these activities can be scaled down and modelled for kids. Around the homestay, hit the many trails that wind through the lush forest, crossing occasional patches of apple orchards. Namita is a birding expert who will gladly guide you. An undulating 1.5 km walk through the Saliyakote forest behind the property goes up to a serene viewpoint where you can also treat yourself to a pre-booked forest picnic. Stroll down to the Sasbani village a kilometre away, past terraced fields and the village temple, and enjoy a pre-arranged Kumaoni meal in a village home. Mukteshwar is just 9kms away and guests can also go on day trips to the Jageshwar temples, Ramgarh and Nainital (all under 2 hours away).
*Prices are subject to change.
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