The best restaurants in Primrose Hill, London
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The formerly sheep-speckled hill was a destination for duels at the end of the 18th century. Today, people travel from all over for a view of the city that never disappoints.
‘Splendid to be on Primrose Hill/At evening when the world is still’ wrote W.H. Auden in a poem in 1922. The location has a rich history of literary and artistic associations evident in the English Heritage blue plaques dotted around the area. Sylvia Plath lived in a house nearby, one that was inhabited by W.B. Yeats almost a century earlier. An oak tree planted on the slope in 1864 marked the 300th anniversary of Shakespeare’s birth, and engraved in stone at the edge of the summit are William Blake’s famous words: ‘I have conversed with the spiritual Sun. I saw him on Primrose Hill’.
THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN PRIMROSE HILL
GREENBERRY
Greenberry (one of the original names given to Primrose Hill) is a lively spot for brunch – served daily until 3pm – with a steady stream of visitors on the weekend. A mix of seasonal dishes are served up in the Brooklyn-esque room which has sandblasted brick walls and wooden tables. Try the Shakshuka or full range of egg dishes in the morning; for lunch a selection of salads including endive, Roquefort and pecan; or for supper sea bass ceviche, Jerusalem artichoke risotto or a Moroccan spiced lamb burger. Dogs are welcomed with treats.
Address: Greenberry, 101 Regent's Park Rd, Camden Town, London NW1 8UR
Telephone: +44 207 483 3765
Website: greenberrycafe.co.ukLEMONIA
This well-known Greek restaurant has been a popular destination for decades. Wooden tables throng daily with diners. Vine plants hang from the ceilings of light-drenched dining rooms decked with terracotta tiles. A vast menu features traditional Greek favourites moussaka, dolmades and spanakopita or try the charcoal grill, fish dishes or meze speciality. The family-run establishment has a warm, homely atmosphere operated by attentive, efficient waiting staff. Reservations recommended.
Address: Lemonia, 89 Regent's Park Rd, Camden Town, London
Telephone: +44 20 7586 7454
Website: lemonia.co.ukL'ABSINTHE
Tucked away on the corner of Chalcot Road and Fitzroy Road (which leads directly to Primrose Hill park) is the charming traditional French bistro L’Absinthe. Coffee shop and deli by day, the affordable breakfast and lunch menu includes croques and crêpes. Fronted by Jean Christophe Slowik, who’s worked at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons, every evening it becomes an intimate dining spot. A selection of true bistro style wines, many available by the glass or 46cl ‘pot’, can be enjoyed al fresco on one of the tables outside.
Address: L'Absinthe, 40 Chalcot Rd, Camden Town, London NW1 8LS
Telephone: +44 207 483 4848
Website: labsinthe.co.ukODETTE'S
Old-timer Odette’s, which opened in 1978 and so celebrates its 40th this year, is owned and run by Chef Patron Bryn Williams. It’s an intimate, smart spot: low-slung lighting, sumptuous jewel-green tones and carefully considered artwork all contribute to a hushed setting. Masterfully crafted delicate dishes – smoked eel, Cornish halibut grenobloise – have a simplicity and precision. Open for lunch and dinner, from Tuesday – Sunday.
Address: Odette’s, 130 Regent's Park Rd, Primrose Hill, London NW1 8XL
Telephone: +44 207 586 8569
Website: odettesprimrosehill.com
MANNA
Veganism is having a moment. Manna, which celebrated its half-century milestone last year, was ahead of the curve by 50 years. Discreetly tucked away at the bottom of Erskine Road, it’s easy to miss. The vegan fine-dining restaurant offers up creative dishes: think warm rainbow panzanella, maki rolls and lettuce tacos. Clever spins on the classics include cannellini burgers and fennel and pumpkin seed sausages. On a Sunday, try the vegan roast.
Address: Manna, 4 Erskine Rd, Primrose Hill, London NW3 3AP
Telephone: +44 207 722 8028
Website: mannav.comTHE LITTLE ONE
Before hitting the Hill for a walk, arm yourself with a coffee, muffin or crêpe from The Little One. This (yes, it’s little) coffee shop run by husband and wife team Ben and Lisa started life in a van parked on its forecourt. It’s sparse on seats, so grab and go.
Address: 115 Regent’s Park Road, London NW1 8XP
Telephone: +44 751 890 8822
Website: tlocoffee.co.ukSAM'S CAFE
Sam’s Café, with its red-striped café curtains and outdoor rattan chairs, embodies a nostalgic British charm. An honest eatery with a nod to bygone community caffs, it’s a new addition to the neighbourhood born from the vision of Sam Frears and Andrew O’Hagan. The interiors were designed by Jane Ormsby-Gore and have a classic retro feel: ox-blood red leather banquettes cosily encircle Formica tables, jars of Colman’s mustard, Marmite and Lea & Perrins line the shelves and a playlist of tunes curated by Led Zeppelin’s Robert Plant plays from a 1952 jukebox. An all-day breakfast menu serving comforting, traditional fare makes it a welcoming spot to hunker down in.
Address: Sam's Cafe, 140 Regent's Park Rd, Camden Town, London NW1 8XL
Telephone: +44 203 904 7911
Website: samscafeprimrosehill.comTHE BEST PUBS IN LONDON
THE ENGINEER
Nearby on Gloucester Avenue, The Engineer (above) has a bohemian vibe with quirky details: gallery walls are painted in teal blue and dozens of mirrors line the stairs. The Sunday roasts have a loyal following, and the beer garden is a popular spot to while away a summer’s afternoon.
Address: The Engineer, 65 Gloucester Ave, Chalk Farm, London NW1 8JH
Telephone: +44 207 483 1890
Website: theengineerprimrosehill.co.ukTHE LANSDOWNE
The Lansdowne is a traditional, rustic pub with cream and navy interiors, large wooden tables, a stacked log fire for chilly days and outdoor tables for sunnier ones. Try one of their freshly made pizzas in the high-ceilinged, light-filled ruby-red dining room on the first floor.
Address: The Lansdowne, 90 Gloucester Ave, Camden Town, London NW1 8HX
Telephone: +44 207 483 0409
Website: thelansdownepub.co.ukTHE QUEEN'S
On Regent’s Park Road, The Queen's is another notable watering hole with a dinky terrace that overlooks the hill.
Address: The Queen's, 49 Regent's Park Rd, Camden Town, London
Telephone: +44 207 586 0408
Website: thequeensprimrosehill.co.ukTHE BEST SHOPPING IN PRIMROSE HILL
MELROSE & MORGAN
For a groceries pit stop during the week, head to Melrose & Morgan. Its ethos is simple: provide fresh, seasonal food, ingredients and artisan products for customers to take home and whip up. Baskets bulge with fruit and veg, shelves are piled with preserves and relishes, fresh bread is heaped on stools and salads, quiches, tarts and cakes line the counter. If eating in, two cleverly designed floor-to-ceiling glass cubes allow customers to watch passers-by.
Address: Melrose & Morgan, 42 Gloucester Ave, Camden Town, London NW1 8JD
Telephone: +44 207 722 0011
Website: melroseandmorgan.comPRIMROSE BAKERY
The sweet-toothed must try Primrose Bakery’s range of rainbow-hued cupcakes. With its mint green walls, candyfloss-coloured leather-backed chairs and fresh purple tulips, the bakery itself is also sugary-sweet. One of three shops in London owned by Martha Smith, it prides itself on simple, old-fashioned baking.
Address: Primrose Bakery, 69 Gloucester Avenue, London NW1 8LD
Telephone: +44 20 7483 4222
Website: primrose-bakery.co.ukTHE SPREAD AT PRIMROSE HILL FARMER'S MARKET
Each Saturday from 10am-3pm, St Paul’s school playground (which sits next to Primrose Hill park) teems with some 53 stalls. Supplies from farmers, small-batch producers and street-food traders populate the playground, including local honey and cheeses, fresh organic meat, fruit and veg and homemade Italian pasta. Fresh fish is also faithfully driven up from the coast each Saturday morning. Be sure to take a moment to chat to the tradespeople about their specialities.
Address: Primrose Hill Farmer's Market, Elsworthy Rd, London NW3 3DS
Dates: Every Saturday, 10am-3pm
Website: thespreadlondon.comRICHARD DARE COOK SHOP
This independent cookware shop first opened 47 years ago and continues to sell high-quality cookware including artisan pottery, as well as products sourced from France. It’s undergone a stylish re-vamp since being taken over last year by Holly Wilson, who also owns Stoke Newington cook shop Prep. An Aladdin’s cave for cooking enthusiasts, it stocks pots, pans, crockery, utensils and a range of stylish tableware such as ceramics from Bordalo Pinheiro and Broste Copenhagen, handmade pottery from Nicholas Mosse Irish and glassware from Ferm Living. For the young chefs, a kids’ corner downstairs is decked with baking kits and cookbooks.
Address: Richard Dare Cook Shop, 93 Regent's Park Rd, Camden Town, London NW1 8UR
Telephone: +44 207 722 9428Scroll down for more pictures of Primrose Hill's best foodie spots...
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