In brief
An age-old East London inn gets a 21st-century update.
First impression: Shabby chic with a green-fingered touch.
Staff: Informal, perceptive.
Food and drink: Witty and wholesome but not self-righteous.
Bed and bath: Lofty, Brooklyn-esque, everything necessary for a flying visit.
The crowd: Young professionals who watch Fleabag and discuss climate change over cocktails.
In a nutshell: Like being given the keys to a cool friend’s apartment for the weekend.
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Set the scene
A playfully executed central-London B&B, with rooms sandwiched between two watering holes: a pub filled with regulars and a rooftop bar that invites cool young pilgrims from Peckham, Putney and beyond. A little rough around the edges, it echoes the stitched-together spirit of Spitalfields with the City’s business know-how.
What’s the story?
The hotel is named after the 17th-century herbalist Nicholas Culpeper, a radical republican who translated complicated Latin medical texts into English to make them accessible to the lower classes. The positive impact he had on his community is echoed in the hotel’s sustainable slant, and at just £120 a night, The Culpeper’s five bedrooms make a weekend in London far more attainable than the four-figures-a-night demanded by some of the city’s more long-standing institutions. Owners Nico Treguer, Gareth Roberts and Bash Redford are behind Forza Win, the super-successful pop-up-turned-permanent Peckham-based Italian, and all bring expertise in architecture, rooftop hospitality and food to the table.
What can we expect in our room?
On arrival, there’s a biscuit jar containing warm-from-the-oven chocolate chip cookies (so good I eat both and don’t tell my guest they ever existed) – expect to find the same standard in the restaurant. The exposed plaster walls and sparse decoration are softened with bunad textiles by Mandal Veveri, sheepskin rugs and Acapulco chairs put together by interior designer Mada Vicassau. Bedrooms are cleverly designed with everything you need and nothing you don’t, encouraging guests to get out and explore – though the four-floor building is equipped with a strong trio of places to eat and drink. Room number 1 looks down onto Commercial Street, with views into offices, homes and restaurants. The sound-proofing is impressive, however, and city noise becomes a gentle hum. Step out of the spacious waterfall shower into a fluffy bathrobe, and spend 20 minutes Googling where to find the beautiful turquoise tiles on the bathroom wall (hint: try Mosaic del Sur on Columbia Road).
**How about the food and drink?**At street level, the pub is filled with stockbrokers taking the edge off (or giving themselves an edge, depending on who you ask) and craft beer enthusiasts. One floor up is the restaurant, which plates up excellent, dependable (but emphatically not predictable) dishes. The seasonal menu is made with ingredients sourced in accordance with the Sustainable Restaurant Association’s standards – expect handmade pasta served al dente with burnt sage butter, boat-fresh Dover sole on the bone, artichoke with candied cashews and roasted celeriac with silky Tropea onion. Ask to try the pommes Anna chips (they usually accompany the bavette steak, but the kitchen is accommodating) – the size of bricks, they’re some of the best chips we’ve ever had: so crispy and fluffy. On the roof, The Piculpeper is a gorgeous glasshouse-style bar bordered with raised beds growing herbs and vegetables, which can be found infused in the cocktails. Even in minus temperatures, fire pits float like lily pads and warm you from the toes up as your Cucumbette (a sour made with cucumber, lemon, bay, pickle and crème de menthe) cools you from the inside out. It looks a little like a cap of mouthwash and comes in roughly the same size, but it’s a must-try here.
Anything to say about the service?
The staff stay very much out of the way, appearing only to whisk your jacket to the cloakroom or when you gaze wistfully at the drinks list. Can’t decide between the many natural, biodynamic and organic wines? They’ll bring tasters, help pair options with the menu and talk through their favourites. Drinks are made and measured in the bar downstairs, so can sometimes take longer to arrive than the food, but there’s a continual supply of fresh bread and anchovy butter to tide you over. Two vegetarians on our table were impressed when our host, Luci, took the initiative and had the kitchen make their order with vegetarian Parmesan – nothing is too much to ask, and it all feels very effortless.
**Who comes here?**Europeans setting out on a Spitalfields haul and Apple Mac-wielding Silicon Roundabout stopovers. There are plenty of Londoners in the pub and the rooftop bar.
How does it fit into the neighbourhood?
In a neighbourhood famous for having more pop-ups than a game of Whac-A-Mole, The Culpeper has become a staple for locals and travellers alike. The few bedrooms mean it still feels like no one knows they exist (which also means check-in is super-easy, too, as there’s no need to queue). There’s a high density of restaurants and bars on and around Commercial Street: from the bedrooms alone you’ll be able to spot Xi’an Biang Biang, one of the city’s top spots for hand-pulled noodles, and Discount Suit Company, a secret underground bar that hasn’t gone out of fashion even if the hipsters have. The convivial, community-led spirit of Spitalfields nearby is as much a part of the area as the market itself, which has been going since the 13th century, and while some brand new hospitality businesses have clashed with the old-school ways, The Culpeper’s attitude fits right in.
Anything else we might have missed?
There are gentle reminders that this place prioritises the planet – soap dispensers that say ‘Stop the water while using me’, refillable glass bottles of water in the bedrooms and unusual cuts of meat on the menu. The restaurant operates a ‘nose-to-tail’ policy, using the whole animal to minimise food waste, and the owners are planning changes that will reduce their energy consumption and carbon footprint, too.
And anything you’d change?
The wooden chairs in the restaurant are surprisingly uncomfortable – bag a table with the pretty bright blue banquettes, instead.
Is it worth it – and why?
A seriously good bed and breakfast by any standards, let alone on this budget. Brilliantly central and cool without being intimidating.
Address: The Culpeper, 40 Commercial Street, Spitalfields, London E1 6LP
Website: theculpeper.com
Telephone: +44 20 7247 5371
Price: Doubles from £120
WiFi: Free
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