An insider's guide to Lucca, Italy's lesser-known fairytale city

Among the many treasures of Tuscany lies Lucca, a fairytale-like city with towering Renaissance walls in the shadows of the Apuan Alps and the Pisan Mountain Range. During the Middle Ages, this beautiful medieval town became a prominent centre for silk manufacturing, and by the 15th century, it had become the largest producer of silk textiles in Europe. Today, this fortified city has become a hub for culture. In the warmer months, the Lucca Summer Festival takes centre stage, featuring top international artists (2023 saw the likes of Blur, Robbie Williams, The Chemical Brothers and Norah Jones) as well as Lucca Comics & Games, the world's second-largest comics festival after Japan.

Stroll through the city to discover ancient traditions and peculiarities still intact – many stores, for example, still carry their original shop signs, so you may think you are entering a butcher with a macellaio sign swinging from the doorframe, only to find shelves stacked high with designer sunglasses inside. From cycling around the city walls to exploring breathtaking Versailles-inspired gardens and sipping on local Tuscan wines overlooking the city below, here is a checklist of what to see, where to eat and where to sleep in Lucca.

Where to stay in Lucca, Tuscany

Tenuta di Tramonte

Belgian couple Lorenzo and Laurence decided to leave the city life behind and move to the countryside among the hills of Lucca. Villa Trenta, one of the two villas on the Tramonte Estate, was built over five centuries ago and has belonged to Lorenzo’s family for four generations. It still shines in its antique grandeur, and is now available to rent with its own private pool (the property sleeps 24). Villa Volpi, a former convent, was only purchased around eight years ago with the intent for it to become their family home. But after meticulous renovations, they decided to turn it into a B&B – complete with beautifully restored original terrazzo floors, antique furnishings and seven en-suite bedrooms that overlook the layered hills. In 2024, there will also be a chef onsite to prepare lunches and dinners upon request.

Website: tenutaditramonte.com

Grand Universe Hotel

The 55-roomed Grand Universe Hotel graciously stands overlooking two of the city’s central squares, Piazza del Giglio and Piazza Napoleone, a short walk from restaurants, cafés and boutiques. It has a rich history, from serving as a glass-blowing workshop to becoming the noble residence of an aristocratic family, before transforming into its latest guise as a hotel in the mid-18th century. Sleep in the stately designed rooms that have previously hosted a series of artists, poets and royalty from around the world, such as Italian composer Giacomo Puccini, American jazz legend Chet Baker and the royal King Vittorio Emanuele II. Interiors add contemporary twists with luxurious silks and velvet drapes, while the restaurant, Legacy, is an ode to traditional Tuscan recipes. There’s also a cellar for wine and olive oil tastings, a gym and a convivial Symphony Lounge with a grand piano where you can take a cup of tea and read a book under the decadent vaulted ceilings.

Website: granduniverselucca.com

Arancera Villa Grabau

Villa Grabau is a sumptuous, neoclassical estate dating back to the 16th century, set on a nine-hectare botanical park filled with centuries-old trees and rare plants. On the lush grounds sits the old farmhouse, which, after ten years of renovations, has been turned into a 12-room villa. Available to rent as a whole or as singular rooms, L'Arancera di Villa Grabau is tastefully furnished. Bedrooms are filled with a selection of local artisan pieces, and each has a private bathroom embellished with hand-painted ceramic tiles. These rooms overlook the gardens, with the 18-metre saltwater swimming pool and citrus tree grove beyond, framed perfectly by the mountains in the distance. Various services are available, from daily catering to yoga lessons, cooking classes and private tours through the neighbouring villages. Don’t miss visiting Villa Grabau and its sensational 19th-century trompe-l’oeil frescoes by Italian painter Francesco Bianco.

Website: aranceravillagrabau.it

Gimber Tales

The hotel scene is slimmer in this Tuscan city, but several apartments are available for an elegant home-from-home feel. A mere 15-minute walk from the train station, Gimber Tales is a grand apartment located on the first floor of one of the city’s few modern buildings. As you enter, the monochromatic checkerboard of marble flooring paths the way to a spacious living area. The style is almost British countryside, with an eclectic mix and match of fabric cushions, chairs and upholstered headboards. There’s a smart-looking kitchen with a beautiful marble counter stocked with a coffee machine, induction hob, dishwasher and washing machine. It's a convenient pied-a-terre for a trip to the city.

Sleeps: 4
Website: luccaapartmentsandvillas.co.uk

Casa Vanny

Casa Vanny provides the perfect blend between country living and city life. It’s situated within the medieval walls of Lucca, yet boasts a sublime garden overflowing with fragrant lemon and orange trees. This property seamlessly blends antique and contemporary, providing modern comforts within a frame of crystal chandeliers, original wooden beamed ceilings and a 15th-century Tuscan stone chimneypiece in the living room. Outdoors, a white rose pergola paves the way to the 18th-century fountain, passing by stone statues and a large table where you can enjoy al-fresco meals cooked by the private chef.

Sleeps: 4
Book: luccaapartmentsandvillas.co.uk

The best things to do in Lucca, Tuscany

Villa Reale di Marlia

When Napoleon conquered Lucca in the 18th century, he appointed his sister, Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, its ruler. She chose Villa Reale di Marlia, a grand 17th-century estate, as her summer residence. The princess exponentially enhanced the villa’s gardens and architecture, transforming it into a splendid example of Neoclassical style inspired by the Parisian gardens of Versailles. In 2015, the villa underwent a restoration process to revive its grandeur after a period of abandonment, preserving the empire-style interiors, frescoed ceilings and sensational Carrara marbled bathrooms. Stroll through the magnificent gardens and explore the Teatro di Verzura, the oldest theatre in Europe. In 2024, the villa will open 11 new suites.

Opening times: November–December: open at weekends 10:00–17:00; February: open at weekends 10:00–18:00; March–November: open every day from 10:00–18:00.
Website: villarealedimarlia.it

Villa Torrigiani di Camigliano

This villa will truly take your breath away. Walk through the perfectly trimmed gardens, with two striking rows of cypress trees (almost one kilometre long) leading up to the majestic villa and its impressive Baroque façade. It traces back to the 16th century with the Buonvisi family but underwent some transformations in the late 17th century when it was acquired by Marquis Nicolao Santini, ambassador of the Republic of Lucca at the court of Louis XIV at Versailles. He incorporated a bloom-filled garden, neat hedges and impressive ornamental pools akin to Le Nôtre's projects for the Palace of Versailles. Marvel at the ornate interiors and fantasise about the life of a 16th-century aristocrat as you take a leisurely stroll around the palatial gardens.

Opening times: March–November: open every day from 10.00–13.00 and 14.30 - 18.00; November–March: visits only through request
Website: villeepalazzilucchesi.it

Orto Botanico

Founded in 1820, the botanical gardens of Lucca preserve two centuries of maintenance, research and preservation. It was Elisa Bonaparte who commissioned its opening. The princess had already expressed her enthusiasm towards horticulture – the first plant species donated to the botanical gardens were those from Villa Reale di Marlia. Wander through the beautifully maintained pathways lined with centuries-old trees like the Ginkgo Biloba tree, pastel pink and fuchsia coloured magnolias and rhododendrons, exotic and native plant species and a serene water lily pond. Botanical enthusiasts can also visit the museum, which contains thousands of dried flower and plant specimens spanning two centuries, and, for the little ones, there are a few immersive events and workshops available to book on the website.

Website: ortobotanicodilucca.it

Wine tasting at Tenuta di Valgiano

Laura di Collobiano and Moreno Petrini have owned this historic home since the early 1990s and have dedicated the last 30 years to establishing the estate as one of the region's top organic vineyards. The grand manor house, a former aristocratic summer residence originally built in the 15th century, is the heart of the estate. Located at the feet of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, the house is surrounded by 55 hectares of vineyards, olive groves, woods, wheat fields and bee hives. There are four wines biodynamically produced here: three reds and one white. Walk among the vineyards, visit the cellars and taste the fantastic produce with a few nibbles as you soak up the sweeping views across Lucca.

Website: valgiano.it

Atelier Ricci

Among the narrow, cobblestone streets of the city centre lies the fascinating Palazzo Orsetti-Cittadella-Mazzarosa. Inside is treasured Atelier Ricci, a tailoring atelier representing the excellence of Italian craftsmanship. The shop has dressed influential Italian personalities over the years, including Mina and Ornella Vanoni in the Eighties. At present, it’s Patrizia Ricci who passionately drives forward her father’s legacy, continuing to work on this ancient and refined art. She decided to open the doors to her atelier to enable visitors to witness and marvel at these extraordinary interiors covered with silk, damask fabrics and antiques sourced from the best dealers in the city. The atelier also hosts occasional events and a weekly antique market to showcase some of the finest artisans from the city.

Opening times: every Friday of the month
Website: atelierriccilucca.com

Bike ride around the city walls

The easiest and quickest route to get to grips with Lucca is via a bike ride around the 40-foot high and 90-foot wide city walls. The path is a flat, three-mile loop shaded under the trees, where you can stop to admire the sights or savour a picnic on the grass along the way. There are many places to rent bikes and e-bikes in the city centre, but for a simple and easy solution, head to Amici Bici, where you can rent a city bike with a little basket for 5 euros per hour (25 euros a day). Pricing also includes a helmet and a lock. Make sure you book a few days before, especially in high season.

Website: amicibici.it

The best restaurants in Lucca

Ristorante Il Giglio

Despite this restaurant’s unassuming façade, enter to find an extraordinary world of Venetian stuccoed ceilings and 18th-century frescoes commissioned by the noble Arnolfini family. The refined environment sets the tone for the level of service and standard of food at Ristorante Il Giglio. It was taken over in 2013 by three young chefs, Lorenzo, Stefano and Benedetto, who, through passion and innovation, have brought a fresh meaning to fine dining. Exceptional homemade, crispy sourdough and local olive oil kick start the meal, which can be taken either a la carte or as one of three tasting menus. Menus change on a seasonal basis, but if you see the tartelletta with almonds, persimmon and vanilla cream, be sure to order it – you won’t regret it.

Website: ristorantegiglio.com

Osteria Nova

This contemporary restaurant in the heart of the city was opened during the pandemic by Francesco Aytano and Nicola Galatà, who, despite obvious difficulties, managed to successfully create an exceptional foodie hotspot in the city. An intimate space for a dinner date or a laid-back meal with friends, come to sip on excellent local wines and taste food that toes the line between innovation and tradition. A sharing platter of Tuscan cheeses is always a winner, but the selection at Osteria Nova takes it to a whole new level, with a selection of cheese aged under hay, blue cheese and a soft, creamy brie-type cheese, all sourced from local farms. Among the mains, the 800g Fiorentina is a solid option, especially when paired with a glass of San Genovese wine.

Website: osterianova.eatbu.com

L'Imbuto

Whenever he went on surfing holidays with friends, chef Cristiano Tomei would sneak off to visit local markets and see what exciting produce he could discover. He later opened L’Imbuto within the Lucca Center of Contemporary Art, gaining a Michelin star only two years later. Today, however, the restaurant resides within the elegant setting of Palazzo Pfanner’s Limonaia, facing the splendid baroque-style gardens. The chef is known for his creativity and perseverance in curating constantly evolving dishes with seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. All you have to do is choose between five, seven or nine courses and sit back to enjoy the experience.

Website: limbuto.it

Buca di Sant’Antonio

Buca di Sant’Antonio is a typical Italian osterie offering a warm environment and rustic Tuscan dishes. Think tables huddled close together, copper pans hanging from the wooden-beamed ceilings and warm, dimmed lighting. The menu is extensive, so it may be hard to choose, but you can’t go wrong with the homemade tagliolini with butter and truffle when in season, although rumour has it Princess Margaret loved the Farro Minestrone...

Website: bucadisantantonio.com

Antica Locanda di Sesto

Antica Locanda di Sesto is a favourite among locals here. Secluded from the city centre, the restaurant’s humble exteriors lead you to a warm, friendly space with wooden boiserie and shelves showcasing local delicacies. Here, you’ll find traditional Tuscan recipes such as the fantastic gigli pasta with Cinta Senese sausage ragù as well as a revived version of a Roman carbonara flamboyantly mantecato (creamed) in a large pecorino wheel. Grilled meats are also a home run, especially when paired with a glass of red wine.

Website: anticalocandadisesto.it

The best cafés in Lucca, Tuscany

Pasticceria Taddeucci

Pasticceria Taddeucci is considered one of the most historic cafés in Lucca, dating back to 1881 when this small space allured passersby with its exquisite displays of biscuits, nougat, Tuscan cantucci and Pan Puccini in the shop window. But it’s the Buccellato that has this shop famous on an international level, made from a secret recipe handed down from father to son for five generations. A soft, bread-like texture with raisins and star anise, traditionally dipped in Vin Santo or toasted with a spread of mascarpone or jam.

Website: buccellatotaddeucci.it

Caffè Santa Zita

Caffè Santa Zita reopened this year in a new, more sumptuous and opulent setting in Piazza San Frediano, at the feet of the eponymous Basilica and its extraordinary mosaic-filled façade. It’s the perfect example of where tradition meets contemporary; enter for beautifully restored frescoed walls, Murano glass chandeliers and tiled Tessieri floors found in most historic residences of Lucca. But it’s the open cooking that mesmerises guests – watch the pastry chefs lovingly fill Giunchiglie (flower-shaped French-style croissants) with crema pasticcera, chocolate or pistachio cream upon request.

Website: instagram.com

The best bars in Lucca, Tuscany

Gigliola

Gigliola is the spin-off daughter of Ristorante Il Giglio for those seeking a more casual, quirky spot. Upon entry, a shelf of perfectly baked sourdough bread welcomes you. Opposite, you’ll find a carefully curated selection of wines: predominantly natural and biodynamic. Visit for sharing plates (the pita with falafel is delicious) as you taste-test your way through local wine in a warm, convivial atmosphere.

Website: gigliolalucca.com

Magellano

Located within the historic walls of Lucca, Magellano is your go-to for a classic Negroni. Inside this red-brick building, sit back and relax on the distressed, brown leather Chesterfield or take your pick of one of the upholstered antique chairs and sip on your favourite cocktail – there is a separate cocktail menu that changes in line with seasonal produce and mirrors the cuisine at their most recently opened restaurant Magazzino. If you wish to broaden your taste buds and taste something new, then venture for a TPOP: Amaretto, orange liqueur and vanilla.

Website: magellanolucca.it

Enoteca Vanni

Enoteca Vanni is one of the most ancient wine cellars in the city, dating back to the third century AD. The owner, Paolo Petroni, welcomes wine enthusiasts and those eager to experience the finest Italian wine paired with local charcuterie and cheese boards. The selection counts around 55,000 labels meticulously sourced from around the country and across borders, resulting in a collection of some of the finest and rarest bottles in Europe.

Website: enotecavanni.it

The best shops in Lucca, Tuscany

Vineria Dolce Vita

The first thing you notice from this character-packed little wine shop is the colourful display of labels stacked on old wooden crates. At Vineria Dolce Vita, Riccardo and Daniela lovingly present their collection of natural and biodynamic wines and a smaller space for regular labels from Lucca and the neighbouring regions. There are other products available to purchase and take home, from olive oil, cantucci, pici pasta and honey, all made by small, local producers.

Website: vineria-dolce-vita.business.site

Gioielleria Carli

Founded in 1655, Gioielleria Carli is one of the country’s oldest and most stunning jewellery stores, known for its opulent interiors and intricate crafts. As you enter, gaze up at the magnificent, frescoed ceiling from which a crystal chandelier hangs. Gaze inside the antique cabinets enclosing ruby, sapphire, emerald and diamond rings, antique brooches, pearl and corral necklaces crafted by the Carli family or created by local goldsmiths.

Website: instagram.com

Pesi & Vinci

Pesi & Vinci is one of the most beautiful clothing stores in the city, housed within the 17th-century frescoed ceilings of Palazzo Bernardini. A family-run store, it is currently managed by the second generation, who continue to source and sell high-quality Italian fashion labels for both men and women. A truly scenic, shopping experience within an awe-inspiring setting.

Website: pesievinci.it

Cartoleria Biagioni

Biagioni is a wonderland for stationery lovers, a classic Italian store selling every type of pen, paper, paintbrush and notebook from renowned brands such as Faber-Castell, Tintoretto, and Moleskine. Stock up on your art supplies or bring back a few goodies for your loved ones.

Website: instagram.com