As the largest country in the Middle East, the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia has a rich and diverse landscape: It’s home to the ruins of the Nabatean Kingdom in Al-'Ula, the Rub' al Khali desert, luxurious beach resorts in Jeddah, and the mountains of Taif, where roses bloom alongside groves of the most sought-after dates in the world. The capital, Riyadh, offers a fascinating juxtaposition of ancient souks and modern skyscrapers, along with natural wonders like the cliffs of Edge of the World park just outside the city.
Historically, however, the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia hasn’t been a tourist destination for Americans.
Until 2019, visas were only issued for official business purposes or for religious pilgrimages to Mecca. Conservative laws and dress codes were enforced by the mutawa (religious police) who made arrests for playing music, wearing too much makeup, or being seen in public with a member of the opposite sex. These laws began to change in 2017 when Mohamed bin Salman became the Crown Prince of Saudi Arabia and launched Saudi Vision 2030, a campaign to modernize the country and reduce the reliance on oil revenue. He stripped the power of the mutawa, and women were issued drivers' licenses for the first time. Additionally, movie theaters were built, international music festivals held, and tourist visas became available to visitors from 49 countries, including Americans.
These changes make it an exciting time in the Kingdom, with young Saudis enjoying newfound freedoms to connect with one another and with foreign visitors in public spaces that were for so long segregated. Around the world, social media feeds are being filled with images of this “new Saudi Arabia” as part of a massive marketing campaign by the Ministry of Tourism—it's just part of their plan to invest at least $800 billion by 2030 on everything from transportation infrastructure to entirely new cities.
Despite the intrigue of the newly opened country, there are also many things that haven’t changed and should be considered before booking a flight: significant gender disparity remains, alcohol is still illegal, and queer travelers will find a litany of laws that prevent them from existing as they would at home or, in some cases, at all—so-called “decency mandates” prevent men from wearing women's clothes for example, and trans travelers whose passports don't match their gender identity will likely be denied entry to the country. Even in situations where it might feel like no one is enforcing these rules, know that the government routinely monitors visitors' social media accounts, and compliance is expected for the entirety of your trip.
For some Americans, the cultural clashes feel too great to overcome. “Saudi Arabia is a controversial country to visit, and poses a real dilemma for many travelers,” says Justin Francis, co-founder and CEO of Responsible Travel. For Francis, however, that isn't necessarily a reason not to visit. “I strongly believe it is possible to travel responsibly in destinations with poor ethical records. Frankly, it would be hard to name a single destination with a clean record on the environment, animal welfare, and human rights.”
Anu Taranath, professor, racial equity consultant, and author of Beyond Guilt Trips: Mindful Travel in an Unequal World, also encourages people to look at their travel decisions from a wider perspective. “Well-meaning Americans become quite vexed when considering going to places where they know a bit about what’s happening to a certain population, but that same conversation, I haven’t seen about home,” says Taranath. “The U.S. has a terrible record of preserving the dignity of Black folks, so would we tell people not to visit? It’s a conversation that never seems to come up.”
She suggests that tourists can use their trips, instead, as opportunities to widen their own perspectives about the world. “It’s an incredible privilege,” she says. “My responsibility is to move through these places with care and grace and learn about lives that are not like mine."
Darrell Wade, co-founder and chair of travel group Intrepid, visited the Kingdom last year, and while he doesn’t feel the country is ready in terms of infrastructure for the brand's organized trips, he would personally return and thinks that the opening of tourism is a good thing for locals and visitors. “I think travel is always a positive force for change," says Wade. “As travelers, we learn about new cultures and ways, whilst the hosts of our destination countries also get to meet new people and learn from them.”
Booking a trip to a country whose laws and values may not align with your own is a personal decision. For those considering a visit to Saudi Arabia, these are some of the key issues American travelers may wonder about, with logistical pointers to keep in mind on the trip itself.
Women's rights and modesty
As part of the effort to introduce a more moderate version of Islamic law, in 2018 women were granted the right to drive, have a passport, travel abroad, live independently without the permission of a male guardian, and, most visibly, they are no longer required to cover their hair with hijab, nor wear the abaya robe or the niqab full face covering. Yet there are still some modesty requirements. It's important to note that most restrictions impact local women more than they do visitors, but travelers are still expected to abide by most laws.
Modesty is legally defined and required for locals and visitors, and what’s considered appropriate often depends on the venue. Some Saudi women in larger cities still wear an abaya, but many forgo any kind of head cover. Similar to religious sites throughout the world, there are expectations when entering a mosque: both men and women must be covered to the ankles and wrists and shoe-less, and women should cover their hair.
In general, women should wear loose-fitting clothes that don't show skin above the knee or elbow, and men shouldn’t go shirtless or wear tank tops. Shorts are uncommon across the board.
Wearing clothing considered too revealing or anything that features offensive logos or slogans can result in a fine of 100 SAR/$26 (doubled for subsequent violations). What’s considered offensive isn’t limited to showing too much skin, pornographic images, or drug-related or profane slogans, it is also illegal to try to promote a religion other than Islam. That means wearing a crucifix or any other religious iconography should be avoided.
Olga Aymerich, a research officer for the United Nations in Iraq, was among the first to travel to the Kingdom when tourist visas became available in 2019. She says she observed that the way women dressed varied widely, even between neighborhoods of large cities like Jeddah and Riyadh, so she wore an abaya over her clothes, either open or closed, to avoid standing out. “I just felt more comfortable that way,” she says, adding that she didn’t cover her hair except when visiting religious sites.
Ellie Quinn detailed her time in the Kingdom on her blog, The Traveling Quinn, where she suggests female travelers purchase a robe-like abaya online ahead of time or at any mall upon arrival—good quality, black abayas made with a breathable material are generally available for around $25 (100 SAR), though you'll also find colorful and patterned options.
At gender-segregated public beaches, women swim in burkinis (which look like wetsuits) or in their abayas, and men keep their shirts on. However, at a growing number of private beaches, guests can wear bikinis and swim trunks. It’s a good idea to call ahead to find out what the specific dress codes are as some beaches in Jeddah, at the other end of the spectrum, do not allow abayas.
Gender segregation
Today, unrelated men and women can legally interact with one another in some some public spaces, like malls and coffee shops—yet there are still gendered spaces, from female-only gyms to restaurants in smaller villages that have separate entrances and dining rooms for families and men.
Even at the Ritz-Carlton Riyadh, where Wade recently stayed with his wife, the duo learned that the swimming pool and spa were for men only. “When I asked if there were special hours for women, or another complex somewhere, I just got a ‘Sorry, there are no facilities for women’,” Wade says. He hopes—and expects—that this will change with the greater arrival of international tourism.
As public interactions between men and women are slowly becoming normalized, physical affection between couples still needs to be kept strictly behind closed doors. That means avoiding touching of any kind between opposite genders when in public. Holding hands, kissing, or hugging in public are considered “acts of a sexual nature,” and could incur a 3,000 SAR fine (about $800) for the first offense and a 6,000 SAR for a repeat offense. It is one of 19 public decency offenses punishable by fine, along with things like failure to pick up after your pet (100 SAR/$26) and littering or spitting (500 SAR/ $133).
When meeting someone of the opposite gender, it is customary to place a hand to heart, rather than extending it for a handshake. Conversely, those of the same gender will often greet one another with a hug or a kiss on each cheek. In Bedouin tradition, some men touch noses. Visitors should follow the lead of the local.
LGBTQ+ issues
In Saudi Arabia, same-sex marriage is not recognized and homosexual acts are punishable by law, as are any activities seen as disrupting public order and religious values. Social media posts depicting a homosexual relationship can be prosecuted as a cybercrime—making it especially important that queer travelers who decide to visit set profiles to private before arriving.
Some may question why LGBTQ+ visitors would want to visit any of the 69 U.N. member countries that criminalize homosexuality at all. Stefan Arestis and Sebastien Chaneac, who run the travel blog The Nomadic Boys to help inspire and inform gay travelers, have traveled to many of them, including Singapore, Malaysia, and Dubai. The couple have yet to visit the Kingdom, and whether or not to go is a topic of debate between them.
“It’s easy to have an attitude of ‘OMG, I would never dare go to a place that wants to throw me in jail, better to boycott them and spend my hard-earned dollars in a place that welcomes me’," says Arestis. “This way of thinking risks doing more harm than good. It’s more productive to get out there and support the local LGBTQ community."
Meanwhile, Chaneac isn't convinced it's safe for them to do so. “The opening of tourism is a great thing, because with more tourism, there will be more LGBTQ+ visibility, and that could start to change things," says Chaneac. "But when you’re a gay person, you have to think of other things, like whether the law is on your side.”
Arestis notes that in most places that criminalize homosexuality like Dubai, travelers benefit from a double standard and are rarely penalized for violating local law—but Saudi Arabia is different and the penalties are known for being much more severe and should be taken at face value. “We suggest going back in the closet,” says Arestis.
Parvez Sharma, a gay Indian-American filmmaker who traveled to Saudi Arabia to complete the hajj, an experience he chronicled in the 2015 documentary A Sinner in Mecca, feels this pilgrimage is a beautiful and essential activity for Muslims like himself, but sees that as separate from general tourism.
“People save their entire lives to make the pilgrimage—for Muslims, we have to disregard our feelings [about the Saudi government] and focus on the religious aspects of the journey," Sharma says. He says he wouldn't visit if he didn't have the religious obligation.
According to the private, conservative societal norms, no one will ask about sexual orientation. “There is a thriving gay scene, very underground, and it would be fascinating to see," says Arestis. "If you are not a public figure online, then there is nothing stopping you from going. You just have to be careful and set your social media as private, and perhaps have a rehearsed girlfriend in case it comes up. But people need to understand that if something happens, if they have an interaction, if they are caught meeting or kissing [someone of the same gender], there is no one to protect them.”
Journalism, photography, and freedom of speech
Put simply, Saudi Arabia is a monarchy, where democratic principles of freedom of press and speech do not apply. According to Reporters Without Borders, a group that advocates for press freedom around the world, over 30 editors, writers, and photographers are currently imprisoned for statements in articles, photographs, and even social media posts that were seen as critical of the government. American intelligence agencies have concluded that the government of Saudi Arabi orchestrated the murder of U.S.-based Saudi journalist Jamal Khashoggi, a notable dissident of the regime.
While tourists will not likely be writing critical op-eds while in the Kingdom, it is important to note that it is illegal to criticize the government, the royal family, or the Muslim faith in any way, either verbally or on social media. Politics, religion, and sex should not be discussed in a public setting or online, and cursing at someone or using foul language is a fine-able offense, as is using rude gestures.
“It's important to remember you’re a guest,” says Francis. “You’ve chosen to visit, so [you have to] play by the rules of your host country. It’s natural to want to ask questions, but you won’t be helping local people by interrogating them—free speech doesn’t exist here, and you could put them in a very difficult position.”
The most common offense that visitors are cited for in the Kingdom is unauthorized photography: Photographing a person (especially a woman) without permission or taking photos of an accident or crime is illegal and can result in a hefty fine (1,000 SAR/ $266). It is important to be particularly cautious in crowded areas like traditional markets, where it is easy to inadvertently take a photo of someone.
Other things to keep in mind when planning a trip to Saudi Arabia
Restrictions for non-Muslim visitors
Mecca is the one city that remains off-limits to non-Muslim tourists. Mecca and Medina are the two holiest cities for Muslims who visit for the Umrah and Hajj pilgrimages. The latter is obligatory for every Muslim who is financially and physically able to make the trip, so roughly 2 million pilgrims travel to Mecca for the Hajj each year, and these visits require a religious visa.
For other travelers interested in visiting a religious site, Jeddah is a better option, as it is home to the only four mosques in the country that allow non-Muslim visitors to enter: Al Taqwa Mosque, the Al Rahma Mosque on the Red Sea, Moroccan-style King Fahd Mosque, and the King Saud Mosque, a nearly 10,000 square meter structure designed by Egyptian architect Abdel Wahed Al Wakil, who is considered the most prominent living authority on modern Islamic architecture.
Prayer timing and Ramadan
Throughout Saudi Arabia, some shops and restaurants will close for 15 to 30 minutes during the five prayer times each day though the latest laws do allow many to stay open at this time. Prayer times change throughout the year according to sunrise and sunset, so check the daily prayer times online or in the local newspaper and plan around them. Playing music during prayers, even in the car or home, is illegal.
It is best to avoid visiting during Ramadan when it is forbidden to eat, drink, or smoke in public from sunrise to sunset. Many shops and restaurants close during the day or operate on shortened schedules, and some tourist attractions shutter for the month. The dates of Ramadan are based on the lunar calendar and change each year.
Alcohol
Nightlife has a different meaning in Saudi Arabia, as alcohol is illegal. The cities come alive after dark, and many coffee shops, shisha patios, and dessert cafes are open until 2 a.m. or later. Families walk the corniche or have evening picnics in the parks, and malls bustle with activity. Restaurants are generally open late to accommodate the lifestyle.
Tour guides
The best way to enjoy the history, culture and natural beauty of Saudi Arabia is to come prepared with a good understanding of the local laws and customs and a willingness to abide by them—a local guide can help you do that, particularly if you don't speak Arabic, and most hotels can provide recommendations of people for hire. Aymerich suggests hiring a new guide in each destination to make sure you’re getting the benefit of hyper-local insights and so you don’t get stuck with someone you’re not happy with for the entirety of your trip. Guides can also arrange for transportation if you want to get out of the city to explore more far flung locations.
To help single female travelers navigate Saudi Arabia, Nada al Nahdi, a Yemeni-Indonesian female traveler and blogger, who was born and raised in the Kingdom, and local Esraa Rayes organize female group travel throughout the country via their company, Qairawan.
Visas
Due to the pandemic, there are no more visas issued on arrival, but e-visas are quickly approved for American travelers. The online application includes the option to purchase mandatory insurance for 140 SAR/$37 and pay the visa fee of 300 SAR/ $80. The e-visa typically is emailed within minutes and is valid for one-year with multiple entries and stays of up to 90-days at a time. (Proof of vaccination and a negative PCR test, taken no more than 72-hours prior to traveling to the Kingdom, are also required as of January 2021.)
“The visa process was so easy, but that was the only thing that was well organized,” Aymerich said, adding that visitors should be prepared to be amenable to changes in their itineraries once they're in the country. “You need to be flexible, willing to ask people for advice, and a little bit lucky. If you are looking for an easy trip, this isn’t it—but if you’re ready for an adventure, to experience new things, there is so much to see in Saudi Arabia, and the people are wonderful and excited to share their culture.”
