Inspiration

A Local’s Guide to Svalbard, Norway

Photographer Cecilia Blomdahl on how to tackle the Norwegian island all year long.
Kronebreen or Crown glacier in Kongsfjorden near Ny Alesund Svalbard Spitsbergen
Getty

With over one million followers, outdoor photographer Cecilia Blomdahl creates TikTok videos of herself swimming in near-freezing water, dog walking while dodging polar bears, and shows what life is like through months of darkness in the remote Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard.

This interview is part of The World Made Local, a global collaboration between the seven international editions of Condé Nast Traveler in which 100 people in 100 countries tell us why their home turf should be your next destination.

What brought you to Svalbard?

I arrived on a very dark and stormy day in November five and a half years ago. During that time of year, Svalbard has its polar night, so all I could see were the twinkly lights of the village. The first night the full moon was out, and suddenly I could see the outline of the tall, majestic mountains lining the sides of the village. I knew very little about Longyearbyen before I arrived. I had heard about there being polar bears and people carrying guns as protection, but it is quite difficult to grasp when coming from a "city life." Svalbard has by far exceeded any expectations I had. I came here with the intention to work for a few months, and ended up finding a home.

What are the most incredible and most difficult things about living here?

Most incredible is the nature and the seasons. The most difficult is the nature and the seasons! Svalbard is very much a place of extremes: from our midnight-sun season of four months with constant daylight, to our two and a half months of constant nighttime. And that really is what I love about it, and also what makes it not for everyone. I personally love the polar night, but struggle during the midnight-sun season. But to be able to sit in my living room, and look out at seven different glaciers, is what makes me feel like I could never leave. It's just too darn beautiful here.

Cecilia Blomdahl

What's your favorite time of year?

The best months for photography are October and February. It's the time when the light either returns or starts to fade, and with that comes endless pink skies. I'm getting goosebumps just thinking about it, it's that beautiful, the excitement of a new season beginning and just the most amazing light. If I had to choose a favorite season, it would be polar night. It's so extreme and crazy, and fulfills my fascination with the night sky and stars. I walk out of our cabin at noon and it feels like standing on the doorstep of our galaxy, with a sky full of northern lights—you can't beat that.

If a friend was coming to visit you, where would you take them?

It all depends on what season it is, but in summer I would pick my friend up from the airport and drive straight into town to get a coffee at Fruene—pick up some white polar bear chocolates here too. We would sit outside and people watch for a little bit. After that, the days would be planned around equal amounts of adventure and coffees in the sunshine. We would hike up Platåfjellet to get the most amazing view over our village, then over to the Longyear glacier just behind town to check out the bright blue glacier streams, and we would head down to the ocean to have a nice Svalbard dip in the two degrees Celsius [35 degrees Fahrenheit] ocean. We'd finish the day with the klippfisk [klipfish] at the restaurant Kroa.

What are your other favorite places to visit in Norway when you're not in Svalbard?

I love going to Northern Norway and specifically Lofoten or Sommarøy. Norway is one of the most beautiful countries in the world, with the most incredible scenery. Tall, towering mountains, white sand beaches, and crystal-clear blue waters. It looks almost tropical—but the temperatures for sure aren't. I love going to the mainland and doing a road trip around Lofoten and staying in all the cute villages: Henningsvær, Svolvær, Reine. In each place, I would go for a hike—Norway has incredible hiking trails—and then I would find the cutest café in the village for lunch.

Follow Cecilia Blomdahl on Instagram @sejsejlija