Destinations

In Los Angeles, One of the City’s Oldest Neighborhoods Continues to Evolve

They say nobody walks in L.A.—but a creative renaissance in West Adams is proving that’s a myth. 
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Delicious Pizza

Along West Adams Boulevard between South La Brea Avenue and Fairfax in the central part of Los Angeles, you'll find bustling new businesses like The Alsace Hotel, a warm, design-focused 48-key property with food and drinks by Danny Elmaleh (also behind nearby favorites Mizlala and Johnny's). Hip coffee shops like Highly Likely have cropped up, once again breathing life into one of the city's most diverse and historic neighborhoods, where personalities including Marvin Gaye and Johnnie Cochran once lived. Here's how to make a day of it.

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Southern restaurant Alta Adams

Andrea D'Agosto

On the wall

The art gallery Band of Vices has two locations on the boulevard, Sacred House and CoLab, the latter of which is an incubator for emerging artists to share their work. At the sprawling Sacred House, founder and creative director Terrell Tilford curated a recent exhibition titled “Gaze,” showcasing vibrantly painted portraits by Baltimore artists Monica Ikegwu and Tommy Mitchell that powerfully depict Black youth.

Lunch break

Do like the locals do and stop by Tartine for an excellent cup of coffee (and a sweet treat for later) to sip while waiting in line at Wally's Pollo for a half or full pollo asado cooked over a live flame and served with handmade tortillas and all the fixings. There's picnic table–style seating for an alfresco feast.

Bring it home

Scope locally made pottery, housewares, and jewelry at Antiqua, where Israeli-born owner and silversmith Iris Yona also displays some of her own work. For clothing, check out longtime neighborhood anchor Runway Boutique LA, where Fatima Dodson fuses her love of Afrocentric, bohemian fashion with vintage finds.

Slice of life

In 2015, the creators of long-standing indie hip-hop label Delicious Vinyl, which birthed artists like Tone Lōc, The Pharcyde, and Young MC, minted a pizza parlor that has become a central hub for West Adams residents and its music community. In pre-pandemic times, Delicious Pizza hosted epic block parties with DJ sets and pop-up shops. The live events have yet to come back in full swing, but the pizza is still great, especially the Hawaiian, which will silence any purist arguing that fruit doesn't belong on a pie.

Tasting notes

Jaela Salala brings her own flair to Adams Wine Shop, focusing on approachably priced bottles produced by Black and female winemakers. Sit outdoors and enjoy a flight, or buy a bottle to take next door to Alta Adams, the Southern restaurant led by chef Keith Corbin. Or, local tip: Enjoy a bottle of fizzy Lambrusco with your slice of Delicious pizza.

Sit and savor

Chef Avner Levi and his team at Cento make regionally inspired Italian pastas with a California twist. For dinner, book a table on the outdoor patio among the olive trees and lavender, or go for a counter seat at the open kitchen and watch the team plate up stunning dishes like the crimson beet spaghetti with poppy seeds, brown butter, and ricotta or the decadent chicken-liver crostini.

This article appeared in the April 2022 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.