Queens's skinny, 11-mile-long beach peninsula of Rockaway Beach, on the south side of Long Island, was known in the early 20th century as New York’s Playground. That's thanks to its amusement park, clapboard bungalows, and grand boardwalk resorts, all once frequented by the Vanderbilts and Astors. These days, you won’t find the brahmin—but you will find a vibrant New York City beach destination with waterside burger and seafood shacks (bring your appetite), bars with live music, and, nearby, the timeless South Brooklyn landmark that is Coney Island. Easily accessible from Manhattan—it’s just an hour’s drive or an enjoyable 45-minute ferry ride from Wall Street’s Pier 11—the Rockaways are a perfect summer surfing haven complete with subway access.
The best things to do in the Rockaways, and how to get there
The sprawling, 5.5-mile public beachfront extends from Far Rockaway’s Beach 9th to Beach 149th Street (and the ferry disembarks at 108th). Those traveling by car can park at Fort Tilden, a historic pocket once used to protect New York Harbor, and still dotted with old bunker sites. In case you needed even more of a reason to finally plan a visit, this season’s Greetings From Rockaway concert series at the Rockaway Hotel will headline 25 acts including the Oregonian rock duo STRFKR, crooning surfer Donavon Frankenreiter, and electronic pair Thievery Corporation.
For beachy duds, Zingara Vintage has you covered—plus, its owner Erin Silver also transforms vintage YSL and Pendelton towels into one-of-a-kind pieces. The Supply Shop at the Rockaway Hotel stocks products from Cali-based Mollusk Surf, DS Durga’s Rockaway cologne and locally-owned Goldie’s Natural Beauty items. To channel the cool kids, the Almeda Club, a members-only surf-wellness spot, has an e-commerce site with limited edition tees and sweatshirts.
Each soft-sandy stretch has its own vibe: Riis Park’s People's Beach for instance, has been LGBTQ and BIPOC-friendly since the 1940s. While big winter swells cater to true-blue surfers, summer ushers in gentler beginner sets. Both Skudin Surf (helmed by pro surfer Will Skudin) and Seasons Surf NYC offer top-notch instruction. For boating, Yacht Rock Charters—with a handsome 39” pilot schooner—is lovely for a sunset cruise; and the occasional dolphin and whale sighting. Or escape the crowds for Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge, a surprisingly tranquil 9,000-acre site with salt marshes and woods; and home to a thriving osprey population.
Where to eat and drink
You won’t go hungry in Rockaway. At 16-years-old, Bungalow Bar reigns supreme as the town’s summer den thanks to its roomy deck overlooking Jamaica Bay. Crab cakes, tuna crispy rice, jerk shrimp and seared scallops top the menu— all of which escape the mediocre trappings that befall most casual waterside joints (their “coldest beers in Queens'' mantra and boozy brunch also go unrivaled). Nearby, Whits End doles out a memorable smoked bluefish dip with wood-fired pies and creatively-executed daily catches. It’s also BYOB: nab coldies at the next door bodega or indie wines from Ship to Shore.
Pastry chef Tracy Obolsky’s Rockaway Beach Bakery is in a league of its own for delectable scones, danishes, sticky buns and an out-of-this-world egg, bacon and cheese biscuit sandwich. In Arverne, the reimagined, Moroccan-Israeli inspired Claudettes pairs classics like shakshuka with fresh-pressed juices. Tacos are also aplenty: Pico offers coastal Mexican; the retro-vibed Super Burrito serves Mission-style grub, the Baja-inspired Tacoway Beach has an enclosed courtyard; and along Shore Front Parkway, the new aptly-titled Toc on the Rock food truck.
On Beach 108th, grab beach-ready deli sandwiches and wraps at Boardwalk Bagels. A few doors down, Happy Jacks Burger Bar is a convivial clubhouse for cocktails, bar bites, and its namesake burgers. A backyard table at Sayra couples niche wines with tapas-style bites, while the open-til-the-wee-hours Connolly’s Bar—run by Locals Collective surf-and-cafe folks—is known for its potent frozen pina coladas. Meanwhile, uptown, the locally-loved Harbor Light Pub remains a timber-clad mainstay for cold pints while Rogers pours an unbeatable Guinness.
Along the boardwalk are coveted concessions: the neon-green Rippers on Beach 86th slings grass-fed burgers with cold suds; Beach 96th is home to Seany Pizza whose wood-fired pies are requisite (the classic margarita with fresh basil is aces); Edible Island’s poke bowls and Washed Up Cafe’s bang-up, post-surf breakfast burrito. And Brothers on Beach 106th doubles a hip mainstay with healthy smoothies.
Just across the Cross Bay Bridge is Broad Channel—a slender-and-spirited 20-block island community. Here sits Adrienne’s, a polished new waterside gem with Italian-ish fare. Those arriving by boat (slips are first come first serve) beeline to a deck dotted with striped Amalfi-esque umbrellas, buzzy spritzes, and live tunes. To eat, assorted raw bar delights—oysters, snow crab with miso butter—are followed by artichoke arancini and a sublime made-in-house spaghetti with clams. Don’t miss the cheesecake either—it’s a secret family recipe. A few minutes away with only a few tables, the newish Hooks Pizza is an unassuming mom-and-pop with great slices, fresh pastas (try the pesto linguine), handmade cannolis and a summer beach pop-up
Where to stay in Rockaway Beach
Opened in 2020, the six-story, art-savvy Rockaway Hotel, designed by Morris Adjmi Architects (also of Brooklyn's Wythe Hotel) has 53 beach-chic rooms and longer-stay bungalows with kitchens and teak furnishings. This is an uber-friendly, full-service hub—you’ll find a happening pool scene with cabanas (think seafood towers, champagne and frozen Aperols), a pop-up wellness studio with yoga; and a petite subterranean spa hosting Dr. Gross facials and a CBD Herbal Bliss Scrub with a 50-minute massage; there’s also an infrared sauna.
The all-day Cafe by Claudette has iced coffee and healthy to-go’s: strawberry and labneh smoothies and cookies made with rose water. Margies—the hotel’s airy, sea-foam blue eatery—serves raw bar platters, handmade pastas, and excellent large format steaks and prime rib night on Tuesdays. For drinks, opt for the cult-classic, tequila-based ‘Shark Bite’ made-to-order by a trio of veteran bartenders (Connor, Ryan and Eddie). And, come sunset, ascend to the rooftop for bubbles, elevated bites and silhouetted Manhattan views—or toast the Atlantic Ocean from your room’s private balcony. After all, that's why you came to Rockaway.
A timeless sojourn to Coney Island, Brooklyn
About 25 minutes from Rockaway, Coney Island, Brooklyn still reigns as an old-timey, nostalgia-laden seaside amusement park. Ride the Wonder Wheel and the Cyclone, a zippy-fast wooden roller coaster dating back to 1927; or check out the adrenaline-fueled Phoenix coaster (with a 3.4 G downforce loop). Stroll the boardwalk—home to Nathan’s Famous Hot Dogs—or enjoy a late lunch at Totonnos, a century-old, coal-oven pizzeria on Neptune Avenue blessed with unfussy thin-crust Neapolitan pies (yes, it’s really worth the wait).
Hugging the corners of Nostrand and Avenue R in Marine Park, you’ll find Michaels of Brooklyn (est. 1964), a beloved family-run, white-tablecloth Italian restaurant. Live piano music—playing just above the bar—ushers you into one of those unmistakable, only-in-New York dining scenes. The warmly-lit, mirror-meets-wood paneled dining room—where amiable waiters lend a theatrical touch—showcases veteran chef John Cacace’s consistently delicious fare: lobster, shrimp and avocado salad, baked clams and fried calamari, alongside a homey rigatoni vodka baked n’burnt and chicken alla Michael in a white wine, garlic and lemon sauce. There’s also a well-curated wine list. After dessert (say yes to the pistachio tartufo) stock up on the eatery’s hip merchandise and unbeatable red sauces, each of which is uniquely made-and-jarred onsite. Or drop by their neighboring pastry shop for a Technicolor dreamscape of freshly-baked confections.
