‘If you build it, they will come’ might as well be the tiny town of Marfa’s official motto. Only about 2,000 residents call this dusty corner of West Texas home, but its blue-chip galleries, charming boutiques, and innovative restaurants have made it an unlikely must-go-once-in-your-life-at-least for the cultural elite. If you’ve made the pilgrimage to this far-flung art mecca—Marfa is close to nowhere—give yourself at least 48 hours to take in the town, beginning with a day devoted to the man who founded the myth: pioneering minimalist artist Donald Judd.
Day One
Spread across 340 acres on the outskirts of town, The Chinati Foundation is the crown of Marfa’s art scene and is devoted to permanent large-scale installations by artists like Dan Flavin, Claes Oldenburg, and Roni Horn (know that you should call ahead to book a tour). A large part of the space is dedicated to the foundation’s founder, minimalist icon Donald Judd, who’s original vision for the Chinati is largely responsible for putting Marfa on the map. “It takes a great deal of time and thought to install work carefully,” Judd wrote of the foundation, which opened to the public in 1986. “This should not always be thrown away.” Be sure to take your time with “100 untitled works in mill aluminum,” one hundred metal boxes with the same outer dimensions but slightly different interiors. Judd installed these formidable works in two former artillery sheds he adapted specifically for the pieces.
Afterward, head for a late lunch and some authentic cowboy charm at Jett’s Grill, where James Dean and Liz Taylor filmed the 1956 classic Giant. Order the burger or the pistachio fried steak, and if you need something sweet and cool to top things off, stroll around the corner to Frama coffee house for a rosemary and olive oil ice cream. Then check out the excellent Marfa Book Company, packed with glossy art tomes and must-reads by local heroes such as poet Eileen Miles.
In the afternoon, continue to immerse yourself in all things Judd by booking a tour of the artist’s residence and studio, La Mansana de Chinati, informally known as the Block. Cloistered behind a crumbling adobe wall next to the train tracks (Union Pacific freight cars rumble through the center of town), this stunning property includes Judd’s three main studios installed with his early work as well as his personal library of over 13,000 volumes. The tour also includes views into some of the artist’s living spaces and his peculiar collections, such as crates of bagpipe records and piles of turquoise jewelry.
For dinner, make a reservation at Marfa’s newest restaurant, Stelina, which offers delicious Mediterranean cooking in an airy, modern space. The menu changes often, but specials like grilled branzino with salsa verde are fail safe. When you’re ready for that last drink, head to the no-frills Lost Horse Saloon for karaoke and—on Thursdays only—one-dollar draft beers all night long.
Day Two
Wake up early to beat the heat and make your way to Do Your Thing, a coffee house located in The Lumberyard, an ex-lumberyard and tool shop that now shares space with artist’s studios. Order homemade sourdough toast topped with almond butter and a cold brew made with De La Paz beans imported from San Francisco. Just outside the Lumberyard is Marfa Brands—stop in to pick up a bar of yucca root with sage and eucalyptus soap, the perfect gift or souvenir.
Spend the morning perusing Marfa’s other art offerings. Just a few blocks from Do Your Thing is non-profit space Ballroom Marfa, the largest gallery in town, showcasing film, music, and visual art by boundary-pushing artists such as Isa Genzken, Takashi Murakami, and Dan Colen. Open by appointment, Rule Gallery offers rotating group and solo exhibitions by contemporary artists. Inde/Jacobs Gallery showcases fine art and photography by Carle Andre, Nan Goldin, and more. And on weekends, swing by Ayn Foundation to see “Last Supper” by Andy Warhol.
When you feel culturally satiated, it’s time to shop—Marfa has cute boutiques aplenty, but be warned: hours are erratic, and just because a website says something should be open doesn’t necessarily mean it will be. (Tip: much of the town shuts down on Monday and Tuesday). Mirth, Freda, and Communitie offer sharply curated collections of home goods, accessories and ready-to-wear by the likes of Pamela Love, Ryan Roche, and John Patrick Organic.
On your way out of town, stop at Marfa Burrito for a filling lunch of homemade tortillas and spicy salsas. Place your order (preferably in Spanish) with owner and chef Ramona, and expect to leave satisfied. Finally, as the perfect farewell, stop at the uber-Instagramed Prada Marfa installation on the side of Route 90 just past the nearby town of Valentine. Erected by artists Elmgreen and Dragset in 2005, this replica of a luxury boutique (complete with handbags and shoes) has never once opened its doors. The piece is exciting, compelling, and a little strange—not unlike Marfa itself.
Here’s the best way to get to Marfa in comfort and style.