The helicopter didn’t so much take off as sling itself high into the blue skies above Canada mountain country, halfway between Calgary and Banff. We didn't come to Kananaskis for the culture or nightlife—there's not much more than an old casino in these parts—but from our aerial perch, we saw grassy meadows and meandering rivers, half-obscured by snow, fill the curved windshield. Out over Kananaskis Country, where archaeological remains of human settlements date back 8,000 years, we gained speed—80, 90, 100 miles per hour—on our approach to the Canadian Rockies. Soon, spruce-covered slopes rose to magnificent peaks blanketed in white. The chopper passed neatly between Mount Lougheed (10,187 feet) and the triplet of around-9,000-foot peaks called Three Sisters before the frozen Spray Lakes Reservoir revealed itself. No picture would do this view justice.
Our ride started to slow, to sink. Unlike an airplane landing, the change in altitude was vertical, with the helicopter gracefully rotating 180 degrees in one place to gift us with a panorama of snowy mountains that grew more intimate by the second. We landed safely at Marvel Pass, steps away from Banff National Park. Eager to make snow angles, we hopped out and sank thighs-deep into fresh snow. Our guide Ralph, a veteran pilot with more than 40 years of experience, didn't seem one bit surprised by our excitement. Patiently, he strapped us into snowshoes, and off we went, eking our way out of the drifts and across the terrain—seeming to float above solid ground, past the upper branches of tamarack trees. When we decided to race down a hill, the snow cushioned us gently as we inevitably began rolling down on our sides. Adrenaline-inducing snowboarding and skiing may be thrilling, but there was something pure about snowshoeing, like rediscovering the joy of childhood play.
From skiing cross-country to sleeping on trains, there are lots of ways to appreciate the magnificent Canadian Rockies. But none could elevate the whole family like heli-snowshoeing, combining a scenic flight with a playful hike in the wilderness. Instead of catching an edge and ripping down a hill, gentle snowshoeing brings you closer to every detail. With just the crunch of our snowshoes keeping us company, we became mindful of every element: The hardy trees turned into white stalagmites or towering snowmen; in the fast-setting sun, ice crystals shone like quartz in a field unmarred by ski tracks or footprints.
At 7,000 feet above sea level, the mountain demanded that we take many breaks during the hour-long walk. And what better antidote could there be to hectic life than slow travel? Suddenly the story about a company selling cans of Alberta air to China may not sound so outlandish. Up here, we really wanted to take our time and breathe.
(Rockies Heli Canada has helicopter snowshoe expeditions from $285 per person.)
