Review: Kato

What were your first impressions when you arrived? Kato, a diminutive 27-seater on the West Side, is tucked into a totally unassuming corner of a strip mall, but once you walk in the door the energy that exudes from Jon Yao's Michelin-starred kitchen is palpable.

What’s the crowd like? It's a mix of UCLA students capitalizing on a great meal while their parents are in town and destination diners of all ages eager to see what the face of Asian American cooking means here in LA.

What should we be drinking? Pair the tasting menu with a traditional wine flight ($135) from the best regions of the world; the vintage wine flight, a thoughtful curation of rare and old wines; or the zero proof flight, featuring mocktails and dealcoholized wines.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Kato is a tasting menu restaurant that gracefully weaves together the flavors and ideas of Taiwan and Los Angeles. The focus is on seafood, with lots of dishes leaning heavily on Yao's Asian American nostalgia. Though things are constantly changing, you'll always find a Taiwanese steamed fish inspired by his mother's recipe. And his fried chicken sando is arguably one of the best in the city.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? There's a reason why the Michelin Man gave his nod. Having spent time at fine dining establishments around the globe, Yao clearly makes service a priority.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? Arguably one of the most exciting restaurants in Los Angeles, Kato is one of those place you have to visit, no matter who you are. And with the price being so reasonable for fine dining, you've got no excuse not to.