Review: Lovis

What were your first impressions when you arrived?

Hidden away inside a former late 19th-century women’s prison-turned-hotel in far west Charlottenburg, Lovis is notable not just for its unique, moody environs, but also for the quality of its food—the talented chef, Sophia Rudolph, comes from longstanding Berlin small plates fave Oh, Panama. You first walk into a dimly lit cave-like bar with vaulted ceilings, where it’s highly encouraged to stop for a pre-dinner cocktail—perhaps one infused with forest herbs. Beyond the bar, the first part of the restaurant features a huge glass window overlooking a lush enclosed garden. You finally enter into the restaurant’s main room, with beautiful red brick walls and sparkling Boschi lights juxtaposed with small prison windows. It all has a vibe of secrecy and intimacy—like you’re about to experience something very special.

What’s the crowd like?

The sophisticated German couple, clad in black, at that table is here to celebrate their 25th anniversary. The 30-somethings from LA at the other table are staying at the hotel while exploring the art scene across Europe. The atmosphere is relaxed but with an undercurrent of excitement for the meal about to come.

What should we be drinking?

Lovis does a strong game in both cocktails and wine—so try both if you can. Cocktails are arranged on a scale from light to sweet and dry to boozy as well as by the main three flavors, many featuring fruits and herbs; the number 13 (dark chocolate, coffee, firewood) is especially delightful. Wines have a heavily German focus, but also include other European varieties from both large and small producers. Though there’s a solid wine list plus a good 10 choices available by the glass, the wine pairing (starting at €48, or $52) is the way to go.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.

Rudolph turns out beautifully presented vegetable-forward contemporary German cuisine, using many ingredients sourced from the nearby Brandenburg region. Though you can order á la carte, it’s best to sample her elegant dishes in either the four- or six-course tasting menu (also available in vegetarian versions). Seasonally changing menu items may include mushroom terrine with pickled beetroot and brown butter brioche or braised carrot with tarragon and chicken skin.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?

The servers prefer to be in the background to let their guests focus on their food and their dining companions. But even though the staff are not in your face, they’re definitely on top of things, and the meal pacing is seamless.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?

Whether you’re celebrating something special or simply want a great meal in unique environs, Lovis makes a lovely stop for a memorable night out.