Review: Nemacolin

Why did this hotel catch your attention? What's the vibe? Arrival at Nemacolin makes a lasting impression in any season: Coming off a local mountain road in southwestern Pennsylvania, you turn up a steep hill, round a bend, and the main hub of the resort—the Chateau and Lodge, surrounding a little plaza that features shops and a spa—greet you in full force.

What's the backstory? Nemacolin is privately owned and operated by the Hardy family, Pennsylvania natives who made their name and fortunes in the lumber industry. Nemacolin allows them to serve the community and travelers by maximizing the resort, which sits on more than 2,000 acres, with a quirky range of diversions. There are all the expected ones—pools, spa, top-tier golf, and Michelin-starred dining—as well as the unexpected. An art collection openly on display, whether sculptures on the grounds (coming out of pond, accenting a hole on the golf course) or in the buildings proper (note the room devoted to works by Calder in the Lodge) includes a mini-museum on the top of a hill overlooking a valley. There's also a showroom for a collection of vintage cars and planes, including a Ford Model T and the motorcycle from Easy Rider; and an on-grounds zoo made up of animals that have been rescued and rehabilitated in their new habitats.

Tell us all about the accommodations. Any tips on what to book? I stayed at the Chateau, whose facade was inspired by the Ritz in Paris, on the fifth floor club level, where every room is serviced by a dedicated butler. My suite was beyond spacious, with a full entryway with desk and wetbar giving way to a seating area; large, plush bed; then a closet and vanity area leading into a massive bathroom—which had a full soaking tub, two pedestal sinks, and Molton Brown bath products. It was so lovely to decompress after a long drive (the area is just outside of Pittsburgh, though a little bit out of the way to reach) with a soak. The club level lounge had snacks and a continental breakfast available, and it was a real luxury to be able to quickly grab a bagel and coffee and squirrel back to the room to take my time getting ready in the morning.

It should be noted that the Chateau is not the only place on site where you can stay. The Lodge, which houses the original hotel, is currently closed for renovations, but Falling Rock, the boutique hotel-within-a-hotel inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright's Fallingwater, is the hub for the golf area, and feels like a special hotel for a members' club. There are also a host of apartments and homes available stays on those spacious grounds (several members of the Hardy family, in fact, also keep homes there).

Is there a charge for Wi-Fi? No charge and great for the simple stuff, like checking email.

Drinking and dining—what are we looking at? You won't want for dining options at Nemacolin—from the casual grab-and-go options at The Pantry, to the casual pub food at The Tavern, your needs are covered. There's a pizza-and-diner-style spot that caters to families; a specialty Italian restaurant; and a glamorous restaurant strong on views at Falling Rock. The highlight, however, must be Lautrec—a Michelin-starred dining experience that goes far beyond the food (which is stellar). The vibe of the room makes you feel you've been transported, and the impeccable service means a reservation during your stay is mandatory.

And the service? Service is incredibly attentive and personable; everyone will want to stop and chat throughout the day. It can also be a bit scattered—the spa sent several, conflicting notices of confirmation for one appointment; the ATM on site doesn't work with all banks. But I'd take that over being brusque any day.

What type of travelers will you find here? Nemacolin is beloved by families looking for an active getaway, as well as avid golfers. Picture your local country club set, and give the especially well-off ones a luxury camp where they can vacation throughout the year: that's the people coming to Nemacolin—and more often than not, they're coming back again and again.

What about the neighborhood? Does the hotel fit in, make itself part of the scene? It's a pretty remote spot in the mountains, so Nemacolin has helpfully made itself the neighborhood: there's a set of on-site shops, museum-like buildings showing off art, an animal safari, hiking trails, ski slopes—you name it. The reason to come here is to remain on site and enjoy as much of it as you can.

Is there anything you'd change? Given the elevated nature of the hotel and its offerings, some of the architectural and decor elements felt out of sync—but I also think Nemacolin is intentionally built to be a touch whimsical. In some ways, it keeps the atmosphere from being too stuffy or formal. Also, I still regret I could only stay one night. It should require a two- to three-night minimum—for your benefit alone.

Any other hotel features worth noting? The spa, the spa, the spa. Not only should you book a specialty service (like the hammam), make sure to build in extra time to enjoy the sauna and pools—and reserve time on the third floor spa lounge after. This is where you can find a reserved lounger by a fireplace to take a nap or relax with a snack after you're done, and every spa should have this. Also, make sure to see as much of the grounds as you can, especially the animals. Bo is a friendly mountain lion who likes to talk to people; the bison and wolves were out during my visit, and they really made the stay unique. Car buffs won't want to miss the collection and drool over what's in it (some of the pieces are even up for sale).

Bottom line: Worth it? Why? Do you like mountains? Being pampered and being active in due measure? A real getaway that feels like a true break from your day-to-day? Nemacolin is the place to go.