Review: Scribner's Catskill Lodge

Why book? In Hunter, New York, this aesthetic lodge is where city-weary travelers come to spend a weekend by a roaring fire—with the comfort of a perfectly curated food and drink menu, dog-friendly rooms, and sleepaway camp touches like a movie room.

Set the scene Scribner's is impossible to miss, its all-black wood exterior bold on a sloping hillside at the tail end of Hunter, New York's Main Street. From the lobby and recreation areas to the rooms, the design is pure Scoutcore with green-and-blue plaid carpet, pennant flags, and shelves loaded with novels. The crowd dresses to match—you might see young parents in denim and flannels gathered around the outdoor fire pit, or groups of 30-something city slickers in Carhartt shooting pool—and you get the feeling that those Birkenstocks and Blundstones are pulling double duty now that their owners are upstate for a weekend. It's cozy, but never rambunctious; a couple sipping neat whiskeys beside an Australian Shepherd on the patio is on a similar wavelength to the guest slouched in a leather chair, engrossed in their book (or the Scribner Hollow Post “newspaper” left in every room, which actually has some pretty good articles on nearby makers and food).

The backstory: It's a good one. Hunter Mountain Prospect House was built on this same site in 1881, catering to then-New Yorkers who were seeking an escape from the city (some things never change). It had hundreds of rooms until it received a renovation in 1966 from a second owner—an artist, set on dreaming up a more playful stay reflective of what Hudson Valley was in the '60s. Today, the land houses a third approach to hospitality, in which the bones of the motor lodge give way to modern rooms with fireplaces, rain showers, and air conditioning.

The rooms There are 12 room categories, ranging from a 250 square-foot “Catskill Queen” to five-person suites with mountain views and private desks facing the Catskills. What they all have in common are contemporary decor—dark maple floors, yawning windows, crisp white linens, and custom bath products that feel equal parts city and granola—and access to shared spaces that make it hard to leave the hotel each day. About a half mile up the road from the main lodge are The Rounds, 11 circular cabins that, from the outside resemble yurts, but inside, are remarkably spacious and thoughtfully designed. Roughing it, this is not. The cabins are flooded with light and feature reading nooks, circular sofas, a cast iron wood burning fireplace and, above each comfy, King-size bed: an oculus for stargazing. Each has an outdoor deck, Japanese soaking tubs, and seasonal outdoor showers (in addition to an interior full bathroom). If you’re craving more social interaction but don’t want to trek to the main lodge, the Apex is a communal gathering spot with plenty of space to read or pull out your laptop (an on-site full bar is in the works).

Food and drink The Prospect is the perfect bar and restaurant for a place like Scribner's. You don't have to bother hopping in your car or scrolling Google Maps for rated restaurants since beautiful food is served in a tasteful, mountain-lodge setting right on the premises. The menu skews Mexican, with rotating flavor-packed dishes like a smoked seafood tostada splattered with salsa macha, and a smoked half-chicken with a pasilla glaze and pickles for dinner. Breakfast, when both granola bowls and breakfast tacos are served, also featured a solid selection of Peaks coffee drinks and juices. Because the restaurant is open to the public, you will want to make a reservation for dinner; breakfast and lunch are more free flowing.

The neighborhood/area If you plan to ski at Hunter, or nearby Wyndham, this is the perfect location. Hunter is right across the highway, and the latter just a short drive. In warmer season (or, if you aren't one for the slopes), the town of Hunter is right at the base of the lodge with a charming Main Street that promises antiques, homey spots to grab a beer, and even boutiques to keep you busy for an afternoon.

The service It's sort of the epitome of a great lodge. As soon as you check in, you'll feel command of the space—like you're in your own home, and can make your way to the fire pit or movie room without needing anybody—though the front desk always has smiling staff available to book you a visit to the sauna or advise on local hiking trails.

For families Something about this being a dog-friendly hotel inherently says, to me, that nobody is going to be uptight about a kid running their hands along the bookshelves or flinging themself onto a communal sofa; touches like s'mores kits in the rooms are an open invitation to little ones. That said, the kids I saw—who ranged in age from less than two years old, to teens shuffling behind their parents—were on their best behavior, which feels essential given the number kid-free adults trying to unwind in the same space.

Eco effort It should be an expectation these days, but I appreciated the refillable toiletry pumps in the bathroom (as opposed to the mini shampoo bottles I still see in far too many hotels).

Accessibility ADA compliant rooms on the ground floor have 32"-wide doorways, accessible bathroom vanities, and a roll-in shower with a bench and grab rails. Wheelchair lifts connect the main lobby to the restaurant and bar, the lounge, and the accessible rooms.