Review: Calistoga Motor Lodge & Spa

Why book?

It's the ultimate love letter to the beloved American road trip and van life, without overdoing the theme. The location, just down the street from the buzz along the main drag in downtown Calistoga, makes it feel like a private roadside enclave.

Set the scene

Situated about an hour-and-a-half drive north of San Francisco, the navy blue-and-white modern farmhouse–inspired lodge lures artsy, creative types from the city; 30- and 40-something couples seeking a base camp for wine tasting and exploring; weekend girls' trips; and families looking for a laidback getaway with a nostalgic vibe without the proverbial lengthy car ride and endless bathroom breaks. Expect to see socialites in Tory Burch caftans by one of two outdoor geothermal pools, and proud dog parents towing golden retrievers donned in monogrammed bandanas.

The backstory

Originally opened in 1946 as the Silverado Resort and later becoming the midcentury-inspired Sunburst Hotel, the property was purchased by Calistoga Hotel Group, LP in 2015. Two years later, the revamped hotel unveiled its Camper rooms, a wink to mobile traveling, followed by Fleetwood restaurant and 12 new guest rooms (designed by Parisa O'Connell Interior Design.) This year, 34 Deluxe rooms were added, and the lodge and spa joined the JDV by Hyatt portfolio in July. Construction is underway for five new rooms (split among two villas), and an additional adults-only swimming pool opening in 2024.

The rooms

Designed by lauded design firm AvroKo (the masterminds behind The Scott in Scottsdale and Perry Lane Hotel in Savannah), Deluxe rooms are appointed with leather hanging headboards, wood clad accent walls, industrial pendant lamps, writing desks, and full-length brass mirrors. Spacious bathrooms feature wooden ladder towel racks, exfoliating soap, and white grapefruit facial cleansing cloths by Lather. Relax in a hooded robe by Terry Town, or munch on a bag of complimentary Cracker Jacks. In the morning, make your own pour-over coffee with the in-room kettle. Feel like sleeping in? Place the blue and white "do not disturb" hanger, designed to model an old-school car freshener, on the door.

For outdoor space and a balcony or terrace, reserve a Deluxe King, or a Deluxe Queen with two beds. Camper rooms and suites (ideal for families, guests with pets, or groups of friends seeking a slightly kitschy vibe) feature one-story accommodations with King, Double Queen, and Camper King Suite layout options. These rooms feel most like cozy walk-up cottages with a doormat and a pair of Adirondack chairs and side tables out front. Inside, pretend you're actually on the road with a bulletin board and peg board dotted with wire bins containing a jump rope, small Bingo game, two packs of playing cards, and a custom, illustrated map of the area for day trips and adventures. At 450 square feet, the Camper King suites boast living rooms paying homage to motorhomes and RVs with a dinette-style seating area fashioned with mobile cushions and a hydraulic table that can be converted into a second sleeping space. (Ask housekeeping to transform it for you.) Bedrooms are layered with King beds and irreverent needlepoint framed artwork with phrases such as "No selfies in the bathroom."

Food and drink

San Francisco–based interior designer Parisa O'Connell (of Oak+Violet in Menlo Park and Redford in San Francisco) appointed the on-site Italian-inspired bar and eatery, Fleetwood, with terra-cotta floor tiles; a modern blue-and-white tiled bar; wooden tables and chairs; and ceramic pendant lamps. Breakfast options span avocado toast with pickled onions and sesame seeds to fluffy French toast. Dinner selections include striploin steak and wood-fired pizzas.

The spa

The retro spa, MoonAcre Spa & Baths, is a modern iteration of glam bathhouse from the late 1800s with a dusty rose-tiled floor, old school lockers, black-and-white photos of synchronized swimmers, and clawfoot tubs with cheeky pool rules signage: "no rough play in the pool" and "specific moves must be in a specific order." For the ultimate full-body experience, book the 120-minute MoonAcre Mud Bake, Bath, & Massage that begins with a geothermal salt soak in one of the spa's clawfoot tubs (with a menu of lavender or eucalyptus-scented bath salts as well as Epsom salt or CBD). Next, head to the outdoor spa garden dotted with hammocks and rocking chairs, and apply a coat of lightweight and clarifying mud-like clay. Relax on a chaise lounge while it dries. Rinse off in an outdoor rain shower, and venture back inside for a Here's the Rub Massage, a customizable, Swedish-style full body massage.

The neighborhood/area

Blame the area's geothermal hot springs and laidback locals for its low-key vibe with the outdoors and wellness at the forefront. The Lodge and Spa is located just down the street from cafes, restaurants, and two resorts with healing mineral waters and hot springs. It's also a short drive from the Old Faithful Geyser of California, a natural, geothermal geyser that erupts every 10 to 45 minutes.

The service

Bartenders Jose and Carlos are infamous here. It's safe to say they know just about everyone's drink of choice whether it's a guest on the second day of their stay or a local sidling up for happy hour (Monday-Thursdays, 4-6 p.m.). Ask for the prickly pear margarita or an espresso martini. Kyle Banusch, a warm and gregarious director of rooms at the front desk, can accommodate just about any request. Upon check-in, a complimentary glass of wine is offered. Don't forget to pick up two complimentary take-home keepsakes: a custom Calistoga Motor Lodge & Spa patch (sew it on a baseball cap or vest), and a retro writing pen.

Eco effort:

There is a refillable water station, as well as drought-tolerant plantings. In the rooms, coffee caddies feature nostalgic camping-inspired enamelware mugs from Crow Canyon Home in lieu of disposable cups for morning coffee and beverages. Bathrooms are equipped with refillable shampoo, conditioner, and body wash with MoonAcre's signature grapefruit sage scent.

Accessibility:

The hotel features an ADA-compliant lift for the mineral pools, as well as ADA accessible parking, and accessible common areas including the spa and registration areas. Queen Camper rooms are equipped with roll-in showers or transfer-style showers with benches, handrails, and adjustable handheld shower nozzles; lever handles on sink and doors; and a lowered closet and door peephole. ADA compliance kits are available for hearing impaired guests.

Anything left to mention?

It will be hard to leave with so many comforts of home, and opportunities to channel the inner kid at heart. At the reception desk-gone-mercantile, check out a board game or pick up some classic road snacks including a mix of caramel-covered popcorn, trail mix, and beef jerky. Check the “Field Notes” butcher paper scroll in the reception area for a look at weekly happenings including live music, or get to know other guests over a game of Giant Jenga, cornhole, or bocce. If you brought the pup, head to Tuesday’s Yappy Hour. Once a month, the Lodge teams up with Wine Country Animal Lovers for a chance to meet and mingle with adoptable dogs. Pedal downtown on one of the Lodge's Priority beach cruisers, or pop by for a complimentary glass of wine during one of the weekly wine pourings with a crop of local vintners. On Saturdays and Sundays at 9 a.m., squeeze in a yoga class or a cardio boxing session. Lastly, don't forget to pose in front of the massive, avant-garde cherry red lip installation by artist Fnnch, best known for his public wall murals of honey bears throughout San Francisco.