How to Ski Utah Like a Local

Deputy editor Candice Rainey, who grew up in Utah's powder-drenched mountains, shows us around this unsung ski mecca.
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    Courtesy of Alta

    Alta Peruvian Lodge

    Alta, which is up Little Cottonwood canyon—is only a 45 minute drive from the airport. That means you can fly in on Friday morning and be on one of the best mountains in the country by noon! Everyone who's from Utah knows it dumps the hardest on this resort—the powder is unbelievable (and it's probably why they have employees who have been here since the 70s). It’s steep and fast and if you want to see some lifetime skiers this is the place to do it. GET HERE EARLY. The parking lot often fills up by 9am.

  • Courtesy of Solitude

    Solitude Mountain Resort

    Solitude is my favorite resort in Utah. This is where my husband became a kick ass snowboarder and my three-year-old daughter learned how to ski. It’s so intimate and quiet—you can park, walk up to Moonbeam lift, and start skiing with zero hassle. This place gets amazing dumps and there’s some otherworldly terrain here. Also try to end your day at the Moonbeam lodge. Pull up a chair near the window facing the mountain, order a Full Suspension Pale Ale or another Utah beer on tap (yes, they’re good!) and watch everyone come down. If it’s warm enough outside, head up to the roof and do as the locals do—strip down to your t-shirt and pray for another bluebird day.

  • Candice Rainey

    Powder Horn Lift At Solitude

    If you're at Solitude for the day, Leave the GoPro at home and instead take a second to snap a photo of the Ski patrol house at the top of Powderhorn lift. I’ve taken that shot about a 1,000 times and it never gets old. It’s of another time—like Jean Claude Killy era. You feel like you're on a Swiss mountain top. If it’s just dumped, you want to take Paradise down which is made for jump turns.

  • Courtesy of Park City Mountain

    Park City Mountain

    I always suggest Park City for families. There are lifts that actually run through town and kids love it. Also: Excellent bowls here and Vail’s made quite a few lift improvements over the summer.

  • Courtesy of High West Distillery

    High West Distillery

    If you're skiing at Park City, get to the the bottom of Quittin Time Lift and try the whisky flights at High West. It's the only ski in, ski out distillery in the country and the whisky is excellent (not to mention the pot pie, which you should try). Take home two bottles: Rendevous Rye and their and barrel aged Manhattan.

  • Courtesy of Riverhorse on Main

    Riverhorse on Main

    Great restaurant that’s been here since the 80s—when I was a kid this is where my parents would come to celebrate anniversaries and birthdays. It’s the kind of pace where waiters wear uniforms but the vibe is still decidedly SKI TOWN. I always ask to be seated on the deck, which they recently enclosed so you can sit there during the winter now too.

  • Courtesy of Washington School House Hotel

    Washington School House

    If people want to stay in Park City proper, I always suggest this place. This building dates back to 1889 and has such great bones. Bonus: they have a ski valet and a great outdoor pool.

  • Courtesy of Deer Valley Resort

    Deer Valley Resort

    The apres scene here is like no other in Utah. More Euro and neon one-pieces than bros in hoodies. Also, if you have kids, consider the ski school—it's probably one of the best in the country. I learned how to ski here at age five while my parents threw back some Chardonnay on the patio!

  • Courtesy of Stein Eriksen Lodge Deer Valley

    Stein Eriken Lodge

    I’m such a die-hard Stein Eriksen fan. It’s so Slim Aaron meets the Rocky Mountains. I always have lunch at Glitretind restaurant when I’m skiing Deer Valley. Get the Burger and try the fry sauce (which is such a Utah thing.)

Candice Rainey is a contributing editor to Condé Nast Traveler. Previously, Ms. Rainey served as the executive editor of Conde Nast Traveler; as deputy editor of Elle from 2007 to 2012 and as the deputy editor of Details magazine from 2013 to 2015. Ms. Rainey began her career in journalism... Read more