Dermaplaning is the Derm-Approved Technique for Smooth Skin

When it comes to removing unwanted facial hair, there are myriad ways to de-fuzz. From waxing and tweezing to threading, sugaring, and laser hair removal—there is one technique that doesn't get enough attention: dermaplaning, which is essentially shaving your face– more on the difference between the two later on. Anyone looking to have smoother, softer skin may benefit from a face razor. We explored the age-old depilatory strategy when used with an eyebrow blade, and asked skincare experts about the benefits that go along with it.

Keep reading to learn more about our findings and how to use a face razor for smoother, brighter skin.

What Is Dermaplaning?

In short, dermaplaning is the practice of gently gliding a razor over the skin to cut off unwanted hair and produce a smoother appearance. However, the popularity of the process amongst women is often minimized. Despite the act often being perpetuated as a masculine chore, women across cultures have been taking to depilatory systems (including picking up primitive razors) for centuries.

"Kao sori (Japanese for face shaving) is a popular skincare custom in Japan," says Cynthia Popper, a Japanese skincare expert and editor at DHC Skincare. "Women take tiny straight razors and shave the peach fuzz off their faces for smooth, fuzz-free complexions and to maximize penetration of their multi-product skincare routines. I have combination skin that can look a bit cruddy and congested if I don't exfoliate regularly, so kao sori is a fast, affordable reset."

Why I Chose to Dermaplane My Face

There's no "rule" about having to get rid of facial hair or peach fuzz. But if you're someone like me with a multi-product skincare routine, you know the search for new skincare methods for a brighter, tighter, fuzz-free complexion can seem never-ending. I've had dermaplaning done during various facial treatments over the years, but never implemented it as a consistent skincare technique at home. And while I love a good spa or skincare treatment, I've been on the hunt for something I can keep up with on my own. So once I heard of the popular Japanese hair removal technique kao sori, I thought this could finally be the at-home solution I'd been hoping to find.

Benefits of Dermaplaning Your Face

• Smoother skin
• Softer skin
• Light exfoliation
• Increased product absorption

Before purchasing my razor blade, I read up on the effects it would have on my skin. The technique boasts smoother, softer, cleaner skin as the blade clears debris and makes way for new skin cells. According to Tiffany Libby, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, the benefits of dermaplaning are primarily to remove unwanted hair and lightly exfoliate by removing dead layers of skin.

"An eyebrow shaver can be an excellent way to exfoliate for softer, smoother skin," notes dermatologist, Dendy Engelman, MD. "Because it works to remove dead skin cells, your serums will be able to penetrate deeper into the skin barrier for enhanced efficacy."

Face Shaving vs. Dermaplaning

Unlike traditional shaving, which involves using a standard face razor to shear the hair, dermaplaning relies on a smaller blade to cut closer to the face. "Dermaplaning is a procedure in which the skin is manually exfoliated to remove dead skin, buildup, and fine hairs," says dermatologist Brendan Camp, MD. "It is different from shaving because the intent is to improve the appearance of skin as opposed to the removal of hair."

Dermaplaning can get so deep that it can actually clear more dirt and oil from the skin than traditional face shaving can.

How to Prepare to Dermaplane Your Face

Having clean skin is one of the most important steps before doing any type of hair removal, especially dermaplaning. "Always cleanse your face with a gentle cleanser to remove impurities before shaving," says Dr. Libby. Since dermaplaning can introduce bacteria into the skin, removing dirt and debris may decrease the chance of unwelcome breakouts and irritation. Dr. Libby recommends a fragrance-free, non-comedogenic option like the Cetaphil Gentle Foaming Cleanser.

Dr. Libby also suggests having a razor that is solely for your face. "Since there are different bacteria in each area of the skin, you should be using a different razor for the body and face." She also notes that if you're looking to remove mostly fine, light hairs and exfoliate, investing in a single, more precise handheld facial blade is most appropriate. No need to invest in a heavy-duty razor for these delicate strands.

What to Expect From Dermaplaning Your Face

Dermaplaning is an excellent form of exfoliation that leaves your skin feeling baby-soft after. Even better? No downtime and the results are immediate.

Another bonus? Without the layer of fuzz on your face, you'll notice that your makeup glides on smoother and your bone structure looks sharper. Seriously, your cheekbones and jawline won't appear as soft, instead, they'll have a more sculpted and chiseled appearance.

Dermaplaning your face won't make the hair grow back thicker or darker. As with any hair on your body, the peach fuzz—technically called vellus hair—on your face will grow back just as it was before you removed it. (This myth comes from the fact that hair naturally tapers off at the end, so shaving naturally causes a blunt edge that could be perceived as thicker or darker as it first grows in.)

Potential Side Effects of Dermaplaning Your Face

Dermaplaning seems like an innocent technique and, for the most part, it is, but when it comes to removing hair from your face, there are a few pointers to keep in mind. "If the skin is not prepped or clean, I do not recommend shaving your face," warns Dr. Libby. "This can introduce bacteria into the skin which can lead to breakouts and infections and create further irritation." The same goes if you have any existing skin irritation or inflammation.

Dr. Libby also mentioned being aware of how your skin reacts to hair removal. If you often get irritation bumps (pseudofolliculitis barbae), have sensitive skin, or are generally prone to ingrown hairs, it's best to skip the dermaplaning session. "I would recommend going to see your dermatologist for treatment options that can range from topical therapies to laser hair removal," says Dr. Libby. Of course, one obvious thing to take into account when it comes to dermaplaning your face is to use a light hand—otherwise, you could end up suffering from razor burn or even cuts.

"Potential side effects include shaving over skin growths like skin tags that can cause bleeding, irritating background skin conditions like acne, rosacea, and eczema, and infections," says Dr. Camp.

As with any exfoliation tactic, it wouldn't be unusual to experience some purging or breakouts in the days after your shave, but they should subside quickly. If not, it may be a sign that dermaplaning doesn't agree with your skin and it would be in your best interest to seek other removal options.

Aftercare

Since dermaplaning can help with product penetration, it is crucial to resume a normal, healthy skincare routine, such as cleansing the skin and using a super-hydrating serum, moisturizer, or mask post-shave. While this regimen will help products to penetrate more deeply, it will also alleviate any irritation, dryness, or itching that could result from the traction of the blades against the skin.

As skin may be most sensitive at this point, it's best to steer clear of any harsh actives or acids in your skincare lineup as they could cause further irritation or induce a negative reaction. "Some people also suggest avoiding makeup for 24 hours after a dermaplaning treatment," says Dr. Camp.

Remember: It is very important to use sunscreen after shaving, as exfoliated skin may be more photosensitive to the sun.

The Final Takeaway

After my experiment, I've officially adopted shaving my face into my skincare routine. It's simple, easy, and quick enough to incorporate into my already-existing skincare routine when needed. I now shave my face about every three weeks, or whenever I feel like it needs it.