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Spas offer a variety of treatments these days with facials, massages, and body scrubs being the top three choices of appointments. While they're all relaxing and offer their own slew of benefits, a facial may be your best bet if you're looking to pamper your face, specifically.
Celebrity facialist Joanna Vargas touches on some of the reasons to go for a facial, saying, "Having a professional look over your skin and address both short-term and long-term concerns is the benefit." She adds, "I always recommend clients have facials once a month, year-round. Nothing you do at home can replace professional exfoliation, extraction, and attention."
Facials can address everything from clogged pores to hyperpigmentation, but which one is best for you? With so many facial options available, it can feel overwhelming, so we asked two dermatologists and two celebrity facialists to break down the most requested spa facials.
Meet the Expert
- Hadley King, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City.
- Rachel Nazarian, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist practicing at Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York City.
- Joanna Vargas is a celebrity facialist and the founder of Joanna Vargas Salons and Skin Care.
- Angela Caglia is a celebrity facialist and master esthetician.
Keep reading to learn about some of the most popular facial treatments.
European Facial
As we dive into each of the different facials, it's important to keep in mind that most facials are customizable, allowing you to have a tailored approach for what your skin needs most. But, there are some basics that you'll find throughout, especially when it comes to the minimalistic approach of a European facial. "A European facial usually includes cleansing, exfoliation, extractions, a moisturizing mask, and sometimes massage," says dermatologist, Hadley King, MD. When asked if this type of facial is OK for sensitive skin, she notes that it's all about the touch. "It can be an option for sensitive skin as long as the exfoliation and extractions are gentle."
Dermatologist, Rachel Nazarian, MD, adds that those with inflammatory conditions, such as rosacea or severe acne "should avoid getting facials and instead work with their board-certified dermatologist to calm these conditions before receiving treatments by an esthetician."
HydraFacial
According to Dr. Nazarian, the HydraFacial is unique because it "temporarily improves hydration by application of hyaluronic acid and other moisture boosters." So what makes the treatment so special? The Vortex technology. "[The] HydraFacial is a popular treatment that uses Vortex technology—a unique suction and delivery system that helps remove impurities from the skin," Dr. King explains. "Gentle lactic acid, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid are applied and suctioned away to exfoliate and extract, and hyaluronic acid, peptides, and antioxidants are left on the skin."
As for which skin types can benefit most from this facial, Dr. King says that "because of the acids used to exfoliate, this can be a great treatment for oily, acne-prone skin." Most treatments are just about 30 minutes.
Sculpting Facial
Most of us have a gua sha tool at home that we may or may not be using as regularly as we’d like. But, lucky for us, there are spa services like Canyon Ranch's Resculpt Facial, which incorporates clinical-grade products from French skincare brand Biologique Recherche, gua sha techniques, and micro-current technology. Additionally, boutiques like Skin Camp offer 15- to 30-minute "workouts for your face" (that can be customized with add-ons) that include gua sha sculpting. But can these treatments actually make a difference in your skin? Technically yes– when done properly, but the results are mostly temporary.
"Gua sha is meant to be an act of self-care by slowing down your breath and allowing yourself to rhythmically contour the face with the stone to release muscle tension and activate the lymphatic system," says Dr. King. "I believe that there are benefits to these meditative and relaxing self-care rituals for our stress levels." She adds that the cool temperatures of the stones may also have soothing and mild anti-inflammatory effects. "The gua sha tool may accomplish a lymphatic drainage massage that can decrease facial puffiness for up to 24 hours," she adds.
Acupuncture Facial
Acupuncture has been used for thousands of years in traditional Chinese medicine. In the present day, many are using the practice of cosmetic acupuncture to address skin care concerns like fine lines and wrinkles. There's a reason for this: "When you pierce the skin with needles, you are causing microtrauma to the skin, which activates the wound healing cascade, which stimulates collagen production and blood flow," Dr. King shares. However, she does note that there isn't much data about how effective these treatments are.
That being said, Dr. King tells us fractionated lasers and microneedling do have data showing their effectiveness for collagen stimulation. For those with stress-induced skin conditions, Dr. King says, "Another benefit of acupuncture is that it can help to decrease stress, which can benefit skin conditions that are worsened by stress."
Microdermabrasion and Microcurrent Facial
Beauty buzzwords are sometimes just that—all buzz and no results. However, both microdermabrasion and microcurrent technology are options that live up to the hype, and Joanna Vargas’ Triple Crown Facial—beloved by the beauty entrepreneur's famous clients—uses both technologies together. "The Triple Crown Facial is my signature facial and still my number one requested service," Vargas shares.
"We start with microdermabrasion using a diamond-tipped wand," says Vargas. "Then, we use a mild electric current to drain puffiness, tone muscle, tighten skin, and reshape the face. By the end of the first treatment, the jawline will be more defined, cheekbones more pronounced, and clients will have younger-looking, refreshed eyes. The final step is a vitamin-spiked oxygen treatment to give skin an instant glow."
After a microdermabrasion treatment, Dr. King says "the skin may temporarily feel tight and dry, and there may be some redness that should resolve within 24 hours." As far as using microcurrent technology, Dr. King says that because it sends out a low-voltage current, there isn't a lot of scientific data to support the anti-aging claims. She recommends microcurrent technology as "prejuvenation" and maintenance since the results are likely to be modest.
Brightening Facial
If you have acne scars, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, or a mixture of all of the above, a brightening facial will likely come highly recommended by your esthetician. Generally speaking, a brightening facial will start with many of the facial basics like cleansing and masking. However, your skincare specialist will select the best brightening option—usually a peel— depending on your skin conditions and sensitivities.
For skin conditions like hyperpigmentation, Dr. King recommends the VI Peel. "It's a medium-depth peel that contains trichloroacetic acid, phenol, salicylic acid, vitamin C, and tretinoin. It can be used in all skin types and tones, and can help with hyperpigmentation as well as acne, fine lines, and skin aging." For darker skin tones, peels can go awry, so seek out practitioners who specialize in dark skin. The Dr. Barbara Sturm Spa offers a facial option curated for dark skin tones (like the brand's skincare line), which hydrates while reducing hyperpigmentation, minimizing the appearance of pores, and helping to prevent breakouts.
Byrdie Tip
While it has similar results to a facial, a chemical peel is not considered a facial treatment. Chemical peels are more aggressive and use chemical solutions to remove the outer layer of the skin. They also require more downtime to heal.
OxyGeneo Facial
An oxygen facial is a 3-in-1 facial that exfoliates, infuses antioxidants via serums, and oxygenates the skin. For example, Geneo is a non-invasive system that offers five different treatments (Balance, Detox, Hydrate, Illuminate, and Revive) that work below the skin combining OxyGeneo, ultrasound, and neo-massage technologies. If you’re still unsure what all of that means, don’t worry, celebrity facialist Angela Caglia breaks it down for us.
"The first step in the Geneo facial process is called OxyGeneo," she says. "This simply means we are triggering the body's natural, physiological response to increased oxygen levels internally and then carrying that oxygen to the surface of your skin. In doing so, we prep the skin for maximum absorption throughout the rest of the facial treatment."
Each of the treatments addresses skincare concerns from acne to mature skin. For example, "Geneo's Balance facial treats oily and acne-prone skin while the Hydrate facial works to enhance the skin's moisture retention," Caglia explains. "For hyperpigmentation and textured skin, I'd recommend the Illuminate facial because it unifies the skin tone."
As for Dr. King, the science and technology of this facial are a win in her book. "I think it's a good example of the kind of treatment that's trending because it's a perfect combination of science, technology, and skincare with a calming self-care type vibe because it feels great and it's relaxing," says Dr. King.
Hungarian Facial
Think of Hungarian facials as a treatment, massage, and facial workout rolled into one 60-minute service. The centuries-old technique helps promote collagen production, leaving you with plump, hydrated skin. Dr. King shares that the accompanying facial massage can temporarily increase circulation to the face. We can't forget to mention the Omorovicza Institute in Budapest, where you can select from a range of facials based on Hungarian tradition.