The Hype Behind Jessner Peels, Explained By Dermatologists

A few months ago, I experienced my first chemical peel. I learned that peels vary depending on skin type, goals, and the specific acids used. My assumption that chemical peels were one-size-fits-all was completely debunked.

The experience also piqued my interest in learning more about the different types of peels and the science involved in each. Thus, I was led to the popular Jessner peel, which is commonly searched for (a 3600-and-growing search volume on Google) and time-honored—the Jessner peel has been around for over 100 years. It's named for Dr. Max Jessner, who invented the solution used in the treatment.

With the help of holistic esthetician Biba de Sousa and dermatologists Dr. Dendy Engelman and Dr. Omer Ibrahim, we decoded the Jessner peel once and for all.

Keep reading for everything you need to know about a Jessner peel.

What Is a Jessner Peel?

There is so much more to the Jessner peel, and peels in general, than I ever would have guessed had you asked me months ago. According to de Sousa, "The Jessner peel (or the more commonly used modified Jessner peel) is a safe, effective way of maintaining the skin and is also very effective on body parts, too." Ibrahim adds that Jessner peels are beneficial for individuals looking to improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, address acne and acne scarring, and diminish hyperpigmentation.

But let's take it a step further. First, per de Sousa, it's important to understand that there are three different classes of peels, which fall somewhere on a scale between superficial (requiring little to no downtime) and deep (requiring weeks, maybe even months, of downtime). The Jessner peel falls somewhere in the middle.

"The Jessner solution is a commonly used medium-depth peeling agent, which means the solution only affects the upper layer of the dermis, in a controlled manner. It requires specific application rules, and the traditional peel features a mix of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids in a specific ratio—14 percent of resorcinol, salicylic, and lactic acid in an ethanol base," says de Sousa. "The pH (potential of hydrogen) of the solution is typically 1.9."

So, what's the strategy behind the aforementioned mix of acids? According to de Sousa, it's very specific. First, she explains to me that salicylic acid is keratolytic and, therefore, dissolves hardened skin cells within the epidermal (aka outermost) layer of the skin, while lactic acid simultaneously adds a dose of hydration. Then, resorcinol has historically been used in the Jessner formula, thanks to its natural antiseptic properties. However, as of just recently, this is being modified.

Although resorcinol is a key player in the Jessner peel, Ibrahim says that some chemical peel manufacturers are formulating it without it due to potential skin sensitivities and concerns about its safety profile. “Resorcinol can sometimes lead to skin irritation, especially in individuals with sensitive skin,” he explains. Common substitutes include kojic and citric acids or additional alpha or beta hydroxy acids such as glycolic or mandelic acids. “These substitutes still provide effective exfoliation and skin rejuvenation benefits without the potential drawbacks of resorcinol.”

"You should not receive Jessner peels if you are pregnant or are allergic to certain acids, as it contains a significant dose of salicylic acid," says Engelman. de Sousa adds that "Beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is contraindicated to pregnancy, but even beyond that, the hormonal fluctuation that happens in a female body during pregnancy can lead to serious consequences of the outcome of any chemical peel, leading to hyperpigmentation. Medically, anyone allergic to salicylic acid (this is commonly an allergy to aspirin) or resorcinol is not to use this peel."

Benefits of a Jessner Peel

In the most simplistic of terms, de Sousa explains that the Jessner solution essentially deconstructs the top-most layer of the skin and, in turn, triggers an inflammatory response from the skin layers that sit below. Ultimately, since our skin has a natural intuition to heal itself, this leads to the removal of actinic keratoses (translation: sun damage) and the improvement of minor hyperpigmentation, scarring, wrinkles, and elasticity. "It also improves cell turnover and helps your skin look younger and brighter," adds Engelman.

A Jessner peel’s specific combination of active ingredients makes it different from other chemical peels, according to Ibrahim. “This blend of acids works synergistically to provide a medium-depth peel that offers a range of benefits for the skin. It makes it versatile and popular for individuals looking to address multiple skin issues in one treatment, with less downtime than deeper peels.”

Potential Risks of a Jessner Peel

Engelman notes that clients will experience some redness, tightness, and peeling afterward, which is normal and should last about five days. "If the peel is not applied properly, or if you don’t follow post-procedure directions (like avoiding UV rays after treatment) you could end up with hyperpigmentation," she says.

"The main risks are skin blanching (when peeling solution penetrates too deep in the skin because too many layers are being applied) adds de Sousa. But as with any peel, the potential side effects can include hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, crusting, scabbing, superficial burns, and scarring. “This is why it is of utmost importance to get this peel done with a well-trained provider and always follow pre- and post-care instructions,” Ibrahim says.

The Cost

According to Ibrahim, the cost of a Jessner peel varies depending on the location of the dermatologist or esthetician, their expertise, the number of layers applied, and additional treatments included in the session. On average, he says a Jessner peel can range from $100 to $300 per session. 

How to Prepare for a Jessner Peel

Engelman cautions that if you are aware of any sensitivities to chemical peels, acids, or the ingredient in the Jessner peel, or if you have very sensitive skin, talk with your dermatologist before getting the Jessner peel.

Ibrahim recommends avoiding sun exposure and discontinuing the use of any exfoliating products, retinoids, and other harsh skincare products for at least a week before the peel. “Also, use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily to protect the skin, and hydrate it well in the days leading up to the peel to ensure it's in a healthy condition.”

At-Home vs. Professional Jessner's Peels

As mentioned earlier, the Jessner peel is a medium-depth peel, which is what separates it from its more superficial (sometimes done at home) or deeper counterparts.

"Jessner solution is a leave-in solution that is self-neutralizing and takes several days to complete the peeling process. This kind of peel has to be left undisturbed (without application of water or oil) in the skin for a minimum of six to eight hours post-treatment to allow for the full benefit," de Sousa tells us. Ibrahim adds that allowing the skin to heal without interference from water or products helps minimize the risk of irritation or complications, leading to better results in the long run.

On the other hand, de Sousa explains that more DIY superficial peels require little to no downtime and no serious post-peel complications. Deep peels, however, which typically involve phenol or 25 percent TCA, penetrate on a much deeper level and have serious constraints where required downtime is concerned. (Think sedation during application and up to eight weeks of prep time pre-peel). Not surprisingly, deep peels aren't a popular choice (ahem, Samantha Jones) since they can yield unpredictable results with side effects such as pain, severe peeling, and increased sensitivity to sunlight.²

What to Expect During a Jessner Peel

Here's a look at what actually goes down: "The application of the peel itself only takes a few minutes," says de Sousa. "First, I'll thoroughly clean the skin and hydrate it as much as possible. I like to exfoliate with my sonic blade, where molecules of water are being burst by ultrasonic waves and hydration can supplement the skin. This particular technique is my safeguard against the peel solution penetrating too fast, too deep, or in an uneven manner."

"After skin hydration, a layer of the peel is applied using gauze and swiped around the skin. I allow about two minutes for the penetration of the product, and I observe the skin for any 'hot spots.' Typically, we apply two to three layers of the peeling solution and then apply a corrective agent on top, which can include things like retinol, vitamins, hyaluronic acid, or peptides, depending on our goals for skin and what kind of underlying conditions there are."

Aftercare

"Post-peel, avoid applying water- or oil-based products on the application area for six to eight hours or, preferably, overnight," instructs de Sousa. "Water can push the solution deeper into the skin, and oil will neutralize the action of the peel. Sweating (hot yoga, exercising) and extreme temperature exposure should also be avoided for the first 24 hours. During this time, only washing, hydrating, and applying sunscreen are allowed. Around day three, the skin will tighten and start to peel, and you'll need to add hydration-promoting products into your regimen. Peeling is usually finished by day five, and after that, active ingredients are carefully reintroduced to the skincare regimen." It’s also important not to pick or peel the flaking skin, which Ibrahim says can cause scarring or hyperpigmentation.

Treatments Similar to a Jessner Peel

While a Jessner peel sits in its own category, Ibrahim says similar treatments include glycolic and salicylic acid-based chemical peels and TCA (trichloroacetic acid) peels. "Each has its strengths and suitability depending on the skin type and concerns. Glycolic acid peels are often favored for mild exfoliation and brightening, while TCA peels go deeper and are more suitable for treating scars and wrinkles. The choice depends on individual skin needs and desired outcomes."

The Final Takeaway

As always, make sure to consult with a board-certified dermatologist or esthetician before deciding on whether a Jessner peel is right for you. Your specific skin type, skincare goals, and any other underlying conditions will dictate your optimal peel and/or treatment plan.