How Does Olaplex Work? We Asked Experts

Olaplex: The mask, the myth, the legend. Chances are, if you’ve ever highlighted or permed your hair (aka, exposed your strands to some major damage), you've heard of and likely even tried Olaplex. But if you haven't, we're here to spread the news.

Olaplex belongs to the rare elite of buzzy beauty products that actually live up to their miraculous claims. It's the product that Kylie Jenner has credited with her ability to go from raven to platinum overnight. It's what allowed Julianne Hough to literally transform her natural hair texture from straight to wavy. The best hair professionals in the world all swear by Olaplex, because it works like nothing else to repair damage and strengthen hair from the inside out.

We've already answered the question of whether or not Olaplex works: It does. But exactly how does Olaplex work? To learn more about the science, we reached out to four top hair experts who know it best: two colorists, a hair extensions artist, and an educator from the brand. Keep reading to learn how Olaplex really works to transform strands.

What Is Olaplex?

Olaplex is a three-step process that aims to repair and prevent hair damage. It works on a molecular level by restoring the hair's broken disulfide bonds that can result from harsh chemical treatments like bleaching and coloring.

The first two steps in the Olaplex process take place in-salon, whereas the third step and beyond is used at home to bolster and extend hair quality. (To find salons that use the Olaplex system, check out its website.)

What makes the Olaplex system so universally beloved is that it works with all hair types and textures. As Martine Robertson, director of education at Olaplex puts it, "Olaplex is for everyone, literally. All hair goes through stress that can lead to breakage. Imagine that Olaplex is like a gym routine for your hair—the more you use it, the stronger, healthier, and shinier it will be." Natural, colored, fine, full—even extensions—all hair types benefit from the treatment.

Hairstylist and extensions artist Violet Teriti swears by Olaplex for keeping clients' extensions pristine. "After three to four months wearing the extensions and treating their hair with Olaplex, the clients see fantastic results," she says. "The extensions always stay shiny and healthy, allowing them to reuse the hair over a year." Teriti also uses Olaplex personally, once or twice per week, crediting the product for keeping her natural hair strong, healthy, and growing, even while wearing extensions.

How Does It Work?

Olaplex has a unique formula of which the star ingredient is Bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate (a mouthful, we know). It's a patented ingredient that actively restores broken bonds. "Olaplex is repairing each hair strand as a whole (from base to ends)," says Robertson. "It's finding bonds that have been broken down by any means (hair color, chemical straighteners, blow dryers, etc.) and reconnecting them both ionically and covalently. This means that broken or weak bonds, located anywhere on the hair shaft, are targeted." 

Much of the buzz surrounding Olaplex stems from its incredible capability to fend off damage from hair color. Celebrity colorist Matt Rez considers it a must for hair lightening. "Blondes and those who want the lightest strands must be on their Olaplex game," he says. "I use Olaplex in the salon all the time. We mix part 1 into our color formulas, and we do part 2 post-color to super secure and keep my clients' hair strong through different processes." 

How to Use Olaplex at Home

If you're curious about trying Olaplex on your own before heading into the salon for the complete professional treatment, Roberston says it's entirely okay to skip right to step 3. "Think of Olaplex No.3 as the ultimate mini treatment," she says. "Many people ask if No.3 will repair hair if you haven't used the first two, and the answer is yes! It doesn't replace the in-salon system, but it's a great way to test the waters if you're curious."

How: Use as a Conditioning Treatment

Used as a conditioning treatment, the steps are fairly straightforward. Start by applying a generous amount of the product on damp hair, from roots to ends. Comb through and leave on for around 10-minutes, just like a hair mask. Lastly, just rinse and shampoo and condition as normal.

When: Use Weekly

As for how often you should be using Olaplex? That depends on the scope and severity of your hair's damage. Roberston recommends including a treatment with each salon visit followed by No.3 every one or two weeks. However, "for moderate to severely damaged hair I would recommend one to two Olaplex Stand Alone Treatments a month, followed by using of No.3 once a week," she says.

Who: Use on Color-Treated Hair

Experts say Olaplex is especially useful for blondes, as going lighter than your natural color involves breaking your hair's bonds. "When lifting out pigment, we are using a bleach or ammoniated color to highlight hair," Rez explains. "That causes swelling to the hair cuticle for color or lightener to do its job." This is where Olaplex comes in, and "secures a healthy lightening."

What's the Difference Between Olaplex Products?

Olaplex formulates a range of products. Some—like the No.3—are meant as treatments and only to be used once per week or sporadically. Others, like No.1 and No.2, are meant only for in-salon use.

Celebrity hair colorist Bianca Hillier explains that Olaplex No.1 Bond Multiplier is the first step of the in-salon Olaplex System, which is only offered by a certified licensed hair stylist in the salon. "This product is used as an additive to prevent damage," Hillier says. "Olaplex No.1 Bond Multiplier is also used as a stand-alone treatment that restores and repairs damage—all you add is water. This is the pure concentrated ingredients of the patented Olaplex bond building formula which relinks the damaged disulfide bonds."

Olaplex No.2 Bond Perfector is the second step of the in-salon treatment, also intended only for use in the salon by a certified licensed hair stylist. "Olaplex No.2 Bond Perfector is also used as a stand-alone treatment at the discretion of the hair stylist based on your hair type and condition," Hillier says, adding that it can be applied to wet or dry hair and must be followed by a shampoo and conditioner. 

Olaplex No.3 Hair Perfector is a weekly at-home treatment that is intended for consumer use. "Olaplex No.3 Hair Perfector reduces breakage and visibly strengthens hair using Olaplex’s patented bond-building technology, which relinks the damaged disulfide bonds which are the most important to repair as they provide strength and health to the hair," Hillier says. "Olaplex No. 3 Hair Perfector can be used on top of the Olaplex No. 0 Intensive Bond Building Treatment or solo."

Shop Olaplex Products You Can Use at Home

Olaplex Hair Perfector No.3 $30.00

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This at-home treatment nourishes, repairs, and strengthens hair from the inside out.

Olaplex No. 4 Bond Maintenance Shampoo $30.00

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Lathering up with this sulfate-free shampoo won't dry out strands. It's chock-full of moisture and great for all hair types, including color-treated hair, too.

Olaplex No. 5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner $30.00

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Bye-bye frizz and thirsty locks, this ultra-hydrating conditioner infuses moisture into strands for the ultimate hair health.

Olaplex No. 6 Bond Smoother Reparative Styling Creme $30.00

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A leave-in treatment that smooths, protects, and moisturizes without weighing hair down.

Olaplex No. 7 Bonding Oil $30.00

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No more dull, lackluster locks with this sheen-enhancing oil. It's light enough for fine strands yet hydrating enough for dry and coarse hair types.