Chefs everywhere are obsessed with Southeast Asian fish sauce. But that’s just a gateway to the umami-fied world of fishy flavor boosters.
BOTTARGA The roe sac of gray mullet that has been salted, dried, and pressed until hard. It’s briny with a creamy, almost caviar-like flavor.
Seen at:
Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria in NYC, where it’s shaved over roasted brussels sprouts.
Try it at home:
Microplane over scrambled eggs or simple pasta, or shave thinly and toss with raw fennel, lemon juice, and olive oil for a knockout salad.
Where to find it: Anna Maria Fish Company’s Cortez Bottarga, $42 for 3 oz.
MOJAMA Salt-cured, sun-dried yellowfin tuna loin from southern Spain. It’s firm with a strong, saline bite.
Seen at: Estela in NYC, served over egg salad on house-made matzo.
Try it at home: Grate it over pizza, potato salad, or fried eggs to add complexity and saltiness, or treat it like fishy charcuterie: Serve thin slices on crusty bread, topped with good olive oil and cracked black pepper.
Where to find it: Ricardo Fuentes Mojama Taco, $38 per lb.
BONITO Skipjack tuna that has been dried, fermented, and smoked. It’s commonly sold shaved into flakes.
Seen at:
Bar Tartine in SF, where raw snapper is paired with a bonito-infused broth.
Try it at home:
The flakes bring a nice smokiness to dashi and other stocks but are also great sprinkled on roasted vegetables or meats right before serving: The heat will make the crinkly shavings dance at the table.
Where to find it: Eden Foods Bonito Flakes, $7 for 1.05 oz.
COLATURA The Italian take on Asian fish sauce, this amber liquid is gathered from barrels of cured anchovies.
Seen at:
Ava Gene’s in Portland, OR, tossed in a salad with pear, fennel, pine nuts, and scallions.
Try it at home: Think of this as anchovies in sauce form. Add a splash wherever you would use a fillet—like in a vinaigrette. Or brush onto roast chicken toward the end of cooking.
Where to find it: Nettuno Colatura di Alici di Cetara, $21 for 100 ml.
