Any salad that's composed mostly of bread is a salad we should make and eat immediately. Especially when it means we can use stale bread to do it. So, what's the best way to make panzanella? We spoke to recipe developer Rick Martinez, digital food editor Dawn Perry, senior food editor Alison Roman, and associate food editor Claire Saffitz to learn how to do it right.
First, there's one thing you absolutely need to know: The optimal ratio is ⅓ bread, ⅔ all the other good stuff.
Whatever bread you have around works, so long as it's not a fluffy, no-crust bread like a brioche, challah, or Pullman. Ideally, you want a crispy bread that's crunchy on the outside and soft in the center, with an open and irregular crumb. Country loaves are the ticket. Tear the bread so that all the uneven nooks and crannies catch extra sauce. No matter what, do not cut the bread into cubes. The pieces shouldn't be too big either; all ingredients should be fork-able. Panzanella is also pretty much the best way to make use of slightly stale, few-day-old bread. Or, toast torn fresh bread in the oven until it dries out.
If you're opting for a more traditional panzanella, you'll want to go with tomatoes, preferably the ripest ones you can find. For alternative versions involving no tomatoes whatsoever, acidic and assertive fruits like plums work well. Reach for salty, briny olives, capers, and peppadew peppers. As for garlic and onions, tame those strong flavors by soaking yellow onions in ice water to temper the bite and finely grate the garlic. Otherwise, red onions, sweet onions, and shallots will suffice. As for proteins, you can't go wrong with cured meat or anchovies.
Keep it salty, keep it simple. Feta, manchego, Parmesan, and ricotta salata are crumbly, salty, and add dimension without compromising texture.
Go crazy with the herbs here. But make sure that they're tender herbs, like mint, basil, flat-leaf parsley, chives, tarragon, or chervil. Say no to tougher herbs like rosemary, thyme, and sage. Strong bitter greens like mustard greens and arugula suit the salad well, but use sparingly and remember the ratio, or else it could become just a standard leafy salad with croutons. Top with the herbs in the moments before you serve so that they don't wilt or oxidize.
There are appropriate times and places for elaborate vinaigrettes and dressings, but that time and place is not with your on-the-fly panzanella. Dressings here should be punchy, and you'll want a simple vinegar plus oil combination. We're all about red wine vinegar for a tomato-y panzanella, though sherry vinegar would work well, too. Drizzling a little olive oil—and seasoning with salt and pepper—at the end brings it all together. For a low-key kick, try red pepper flakes or fresh chiles.
You don't want your salad to sog out. Make the panzanella in the morning and dish it out by the time a mid-afternoon picnic rolls around.
As with any salad, textures, colors, and flavors are key. Panzanella should be crunchy, soft, and dressed all at once. This might mean incorporating different tomato sizes and varieties into the same salad, like mixing heirlooms and cherry tomatoes. Or perhaps let some bread chunks sog while others stay firm and super-crisp, for contrast's sake.
For tips on how to shop for the perfect baguette for your bready salad, watch the video below.