Baking with whole wheat flour is now commonplace in our kitchens. But when it comes to cooking with whole grains, the majority of us could us a primer (or at least a brush-up). So when Bob Moore of Bob's Red Mill visited the Bon Appétit headquarters, we took advantage of his and his team's knowledge about all things whole grain. After all—in addition to a full line of white, whole wheat, and gluten-free flours, Bob's Red Mill sells whole grains like barley, oats, buckwheat, and farro. These tips for cooking whole grains are easy to follow, but will make all the difference in the world (or at least your dinner).
Many large-scale milling companies use steel mills to extract the endosperm from the rest of the seed head. This is useful in recipes calling for white AP flour, but milled whole grains from these producers are often Frankensteined by separating the endosperm from the bran and germ, then combining them back together. In contrast, a stone mill will crush the grain in its entirety, keeping every portion of the seed head together. You can consume whole grains in one of three ways: completely ground, as in flours; cracked, as in bulgur wheat; or totally whole, as in hulled barley. However you consume your grains, look for ones that have been minimally-processed, and are as fresh as possible. Whole grains begin to turn rancid the minute they are ground, so buy in small batches, store them in the freezer, and use quickly.
"Cooking whole grains takes time," says Moore. But when health is on the line, it's a worthwhile investment. Because whole grains contain all portions of the seed head (the germ, bran, and endosperm), they take longer to cook—but they're also more nutritious. Moore and his wife plan ahead by making overnight oats, cooking in big batches, and with being smart about time-management. "Invest the extra hour in cooking grains whole, instead of making something less healthy," says Moore. "Invest the time in yourself." The good news is that once you get the grains on the stovetop, it's all hands-off. The time suck comes from the time required for the grains to soften and become tender. But hey—you've got things to do in an hour, right? Might we suggest brushing up on your reading?
If you're going to go through the trouble of cooking whole grains, go big and make eating well easier for yourself all week long. Cook a large pot of grains, and you'll have breakfast, lunch, and dinner inspiration for days to come. Reheat grains with milk and sweetener, or savory mix-ins for a breakfast porridge, and add a quarter-cup of cooked grains to green salads at lunch. At dinner, reheat them with stock, add them to soup, or turn them into pan-fried fritters held together with a little egg and seasoning. Hearty whole grains can stand up to reheating without losing their structural integrity, which makes them ideal leftovers.
The best way to unlock the naturally nutty flavors of chewy whole grains is to dry-toast them before adding liquid and simmering. Get the pot good and hot, add the desired amount of grains, and shake the pot or stir constantly for a minute or two. Take care to continually move the grains, and lower the heat slightly. You're looking to add a little color, but you'll know they're ready for the stock or water when they become fragrant. Pull them off the heat before they begin to smell burnt or get too dark.
Once you've added your liquid, bring it up to a boil—but don't keep it there. Not only will it make a mess on your stove, but it'll also cause the liquid to reduce too fast—meaning the stock or water will evaporate before the grains are cooked. As a general rule, Bob's Red Mill advocates a 3:1 liquid:grains ratio, but, of course, read package directions before proceeding. When you can add flavor, do! We like to use stock, broth, and even apple cider, instead of water.
Between heirloom and ancient grains, like farro, and your daily staples, like brown rice and wheat berries, shopping for and cooking them can be overwhelming. If you only try one new grain, says Moore, it should be millet. Not only does millet cook up quickly (similar to wheat couscous), but it also has a mild, "entry level" flavor, and is very versatile. Err on the side of undercooking for chewy, individual grains, or cook it a few extra minutes and let it turn to "mush." The millet mush, when doctored up with salt and pepper, is an almost dead-ringer for mashed potatoes. Need more millet inspiration? Make a couscous with roasted carrots or turn cooked millet into savory pancakes.