Deputy food editor Hana Asbrink has 24 hours in the day and 379 things to get done. In her monthly column, Shortcut to Dinner, she lassos overachieving products to show weeknights who’s boss (it’s Hana).
My pantry is chockablock with all sorts of pastas and noodles: Everything from pappardelle and bún to dangmyeon and soba—even cutie but oft-neglected orzo—is represented. There is no fear of being without starchy goodness for long.
One item I long resisted is shelf-stable gnocchi. Neither fresh nor frozen, these little orbs never drew me in. But last year, I learned to embrace them—by completely ignoring the package directions.
Roasting, not boiling, gnocchi is the best way to actualize their full potential. Roasting them on a sheet pan, a move popularized by talented recipe developer Ali Slagle, gives the gnocchi a chance to crisp up while retaining their pillowy softness inside. There are lots of ways to spin this technique—former BA editor Sarah Jampel opted for cherry tomatoes and arugula.
In this recipe, I take inspiration from tteok, the Korean rice cakes I grew up eating. I love a chewy, mochi-like texture, and shelf-stable gnocchi—made from dehydrated potatoes and often potato starch—fit squarely in this category. It’s a nice sub for rice cakes here.
I roast a large bounty of umami-rich mushrooms right alongside the package of gnocchi. The meaty mushrooms, plus a few other vegetables, cook down while the gnocchi get toasted in spots. Then everyone gets tossed in a salty-tangy dressing that recalls Korean pantry flavors: sesame oil, soy sauce, and rice vinegar.
These days, you can find vacuum-sealed gnocchi anywhere. Now I always have a package in my pantry for whenever I'm short on time. Everything gets thrown on a sheet pan and, just like that, dinner is done.
