I usually agree with that famous Annie Hall line, “I would never wanna belong to any club that would have someone like me for a member.” But in the case of members-only Palizzi Social Club in Philadelphia, that means I’d be missing out on some of the best red-sauce Italian-American classics in the country. And that’s not going to happen.
Chef Joey Baldino, whose nearby Zeppoli across the Walt Whitman Bridge in Collingswood, NJ, landed on our Top 50 list in 2012, took over a century-old Italian social club in South Philly (his uncle, from whom he inherited the space, was a former member) and cleaned it up just enough so that it still feels like Frankie Avalon might come walking through the door at any moment. It’s 100 percent old-school, from the neon sign and fake-wood paneling to the Formica bar and vintage cigarette machine. It’s like going back in time without any of the kitsch and theme park shtick.
The space may feel like a time capsule from the Kennedy era, but Baldino has transformed the food into a modern ode to the dishes he was raised on. I could tell you not to fill up on the bread basket—house-made grissini, fresh-baked semolina studded with sesame, and triangular mozzarella-stuffed fritters, all served with a spicy bowl of marinara—but you will, and you should. The classic Caesar arrives creamy and perfectly dressed with a shower of shaved Parm and a healthy dose of meaty anchovies—just the way I like it. If the spaghetti with blue crab is on the menu, you’re getting it, and no one will look at you funny if you tuck your napkin into your collar. I’ve never had tripe this rich and silky and almost pastalike, and, let’s be real, it’s hard to pass up stuffed artichokes with lemon and parsley. Before you know it, you’ll be on your third Negroni, Delores (my favorite waiter) will be your new best friend, and you’ll be planning your next trip. But not before the spumoni and house grappa arrive. Yes, Italians do it better.
I’m going to be honest with you: Because this place is members only, it’s not going to be an easy table to nab. It’s going to be frustrating, but trust me when I say that the reward will outweigh the inconvenience. Here’s how it works: Unless you are headed there with someone who is already a member (members are allowed to take guests), you’ll need to purchase a one-time membership, which costs $20 and can only be purchased at the door. The club only offers ten memberships nightly, so get there early (it opens at 6 p.m. Thursday through Sunday) and cross your fingers that you’re one of the lucky ones. (You can find more details on its website.) Of course, the easiest way to ensure entry is to know a member who will take you. Either way, patience and persistence are key and also seriously worth it. They just don’t make restaurants like this anymore.
Get the recipes:
Ricotta Pie with Amarena Cherries
Escarole with Cannellini Beans
Roasted Vegetables Antipasto Plate
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