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This is Highly Recommend, a column dedicated to what we’re eating, drinking, and buying. Here, Emma Laperruque writes about the affordable toaster that's the highlight of her morning routine.
As a general rule I do not believe in single-use tools or appliances. I do not own a grapefruit knife, or cherry pitter, or a garlic press, or one of those Medieval-looking slicers that tortures a hard-boiled egg. But a toaster is my exception.
Yes, there are infinite ways to toast bread: a skillet, a broiler, a grill. Yet none of them are easier or breezier than a toaster, especially if you have a good one. And in my humble opinion, I have the best.
Best does not mean expensive. In fact, in this case, it’s just the opposite.
There are a lot of fancy toasters out there, ready to set you back hundreds of dollars, with their sleek design and nifty features. This one from Smeg with a “retro style aesthetic” is $240. This one from Revolution with a touchscreen and “patented InstaGLO® technology” is $345. This one from Wolf Gourmet with “shade selector, bagel, and defrost settings” is $478!
But my favorite is $50—yes, $50—and it comes with the niftiest feature of all: a see-through window, which lets you watch your toast toast. Didn’t know you needed this in your life? I didn’t either. Turns out, it is hard to overstate how mesmerizing and soothing this is, like lying in a hammock and staring at the clouds.
And it’s practical too. Thanks to the window, I can get my sourdough slice or English muffin exactly how I like it: golden brown flirting with burnt, crispy but not crunchy. The extra-wide slot (great for bagels), easy-to-clean crumb tray (just pull out and wipe down), and practical buttons (like defrost, cancel, and reheat) don’t hurt either.
My other countertop appliances are more multipurpose, for sure, but it’s my toaster that I look forward to seeing when I get out of bed and wander into the kitchen for sustenance. Single-use isn’t such a bad thing if it’s used every day.