Aaron Franklin Wants You To Make Better Brisket

In this week's Bon Appétit Foodcast, Aaron Franklin shares his brisket secrets.
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Dylan + Jeni

The line at Franklin Barbecue in Austin is about four hours long—but it’s worth it. Chef and owner Aaron Franklin knows how to smoke meat (deemed a “barbecue god” by our own Andrew Knowlton). He started with a pit in his backyard, eventually opened up in a trailer, and finally moved to the brick and mortar spot he still runs today.

Here are Franklin’s rules for cooking the perfect brisket:
Be patient. It’s very easy to undercook. You don’t want your heat too low and you don’t want to take it off too early. This causes the beef to run out of fat before the collagen breaks down. When in doubt? Let it hang out over the fire for another couple of hours.

There are two main sections that come in a brisket cut (called a packer). One is leaner (think of the top of your chest) and one is fattier (think of your shoulder), with the seam being what Franklin calls, “the armpit of the cow.” You want both in order to get the perfect texture; one doesn’t cook right without the other.

Don’t sauce—before or after. Dipping is okay. But you don’t even really need that.

Hear more on the latest BA Foodcast about Franklin Barbecue, as well as the newly booming industry of edible treats in Portland, OR.

This episode was recorded at Feast PDX.