Philip Krajek

This bright, vegetarian sauce features lemon three ways: juice, zest, and preserved lemon peel.

There are two hits of chile in this dish. It’s used early on to infuse the oil, where it mellows. The sprinkle added at the end is more “precocious,” says chef Philip Krajeck, Rolf and Daughters, Nashville. “It’s not in every bite, but when it hits you, it makes a big impact.”

Because this dough is eggless, it has great al dente texture. If you can’t find durum wheat flour, all-purpose will work well, too.

Chef Philip Krajeck, Rolf and Daughters, Nashville, says the key to this dish is getting a good char on the brussels sprouts, which helps balance the richness of the porky, eggy sauce. Salt draws moisture out of the leaves, which might make them soggy, so he doesn’t season them.