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David Tanis

The Fish Sauce Diaries: David Tanis Eats His Way Through Hoi An, Vietnam

Chef David Tanis eats his way through the noodles, crêpes, and banana-blossom salads of Hoi An, Vietnam

Vietnamese Chicken Noodle Soup

Chef and author David Tanis insists on making broth for this restorative and iconic soup (pho ga) from scratch and warns against over­cooking the noodles: “They should be pretty firm and snappy, not flabby.”

Pickled Whole Shallots

Next to fried shallots, these are the single greatest condiment of all time. They’re an ideal counterbalance to rich, fatty, or spiced foods, or as a zingy garnish for a cold noodle salad.

Grilled Snapper with Fresh Turmeric Marinade

Fresh turmeric lends a unique and earthy note plus incredible color to the finished dish.

Braised Spiced Pork with Cao Lau Noodles

The synthesis of fresh and long-cooked textures; rich, sweet, and herbal flavors; and juicy and crunchy garnishes. Serve with extra herbs, chiles, and lime so everyone can customize his own bowl.

Chicken and Green Papaya Salad

The difference between this papaya salad and a Thai-style one comes down to spice and sugar, says chef and author David Tanis. The Vietnamese one is sweeter and less hot. Have all the ingredients assembled, but dress the salad just before serving.

Nuoc Cham

This ubiquitous and essential Vietnamese condiment is a bright and spicy mix of sweet, sour, salty, and bitter flavors.

Crisp Hoi An Pancakes

These hot and crunchy filled crepes are known as banh xeo in Vietnam.

Bean Sprout Pickle

These crisp, fresh pickles are often offered along with fresh herbs at the table. Tuck them into a lettuce-leaf wrapper or use them to doctor brothy soup.

Cold Noodles with Grilled Lemongrass Shrimp

The method for cooking rice noodles varies from brand to brand—sometimes they’re soaked in hot water, sometimes boiled, so check the package.

Spicy Pickled Shallots

“You always want to give the option of adding heat at the table,” says chef and author David Tanis. These shallots deliver acidity and fire in one shot.

Easy Fish Stock

For the best fish stock, make your own, even if you can't exactly match the proportions suggested below. The main idea is to make a light, flavorful broth. Use the bones of white-fleshed fish—most fishmongers will give you bones for free.

Braised Lamb Shanks with Gremolata and Baked Polenta

This lamb shank recipe calls for cooking them uncovered in their broth. It simultaneously browns and braises them, adding richness and color. Braise them a day ahead; the flavor will deepen overnight in the fridge.

Bouillabaisse with Rouille and Garlic Toasts

This pot of Provençal mussels is bathed in a bouillabaisse-style broth with saffron, tomato, and herbs. Make the broth hours ahead. Steam the mussels just before guests sit down, and serve with buttery toasted French bread rubbed with garlic.

Bitter Greens with Mustard Vinaigrette

This thick, robust vinaigrette is perfectly suited to dress a salad of sturdy greens.

Pimentón Roast Chickens with Crispy Potatoes

Generously seasoned birds sit overnight, then get a high-heat roasting on a baking sheet, spaced apart so air can circulate around them, crisping the skins.

Posole with Red Chile

The backbone of this bowl of New Mexican soul is large kernels of dried hominy, which need to be soaked overnight. This spin on the classic posole recipe might be the most delicious party food on either side of the Rio Grande.

Lentil and Garlic Sausage Cassoulet

This streamlined, somewhat lighter cassoulet employs French green lentils, bacon, and smoked sausage.

Squash and Broccoli Rabe Lasagna

This vegetarian revelation balances the meaty sweetness of butternut squash with bitter broccoli rabe and a creamy sauce. Serve it with a simple salad.